How to Build an Attractive and Thrifty Upside Down Planter! 2026

How to Build an Attractive and Thrifty Upside Down Planter, I have a nice patio that I put a lot of work into and I didn't want to fill it with several hanging tomato plants.

The second problem I had with the product was that it was not very visually appealing.

So with some wooden patio barrel tubs, some wood planks from my workshop, and a little elbow grease, I came up with a self-stick inverted planter that attaches to the wall and can accommodate almost anything that can be grown upside down while adding to my backyard landscape.

Oh, and just for fun, I planted strawberries in the top of the pot, which has worked wonderfully.

Step 1: Necessary Materials

As far as materials go, the most important part is the 20″ x 13″ wooden barrel tub. There are many sizes, but my experiences tell me that tomatoes generally need a deep root base.

So I found the 13″ barrel best suited for this.

The variation tested in step 10 gives a bit of information regarding a smaller 7″ barrel I originally tested and how I made it work.

• 1 Barrel of 20″ x 13″
• 2 Pieces of wood for a backrest 20″x13″x3/4″ .
• Wood glue (water-based, not polyurethane)
• 8 #8x1/2″ Flat Head Wood Screws for Securing Metal Banding
• 1 1/4″ finishing nails or #6×1″ screws

Tools make the difference in a project. I'll explain what I used, but I'll also try to make suggestions for safe alternatives.

Step 2: Prepare the barrel

The ultimate goal is to cut the barrel strips and barrel in half, so it's important to spend some time strengthening it so it doesn't break.

The barrel is strengthened by applying a good amount of glue to each of the joints. Help separate each panel slightly so the glue can flow into the joint.

After each joint has been completely coated, move on to the fasteners.

The use of a pneumatic staple/nail gun is suggested because it is fast and accurate.

But if you don't have access to this type of tool, a box of 1 1/4″ nails and a hammer will work.

If you use a hammer and nails or screws, I suggest gluing one section at a time and nailing or screwing each joint as you go.

Also remember to secure the bottom of the barrel to the sides with nails or screws. If you must use screws, try to find the finishing screws because most screws will be very visible.

When the barrel is secure, water off the excess glue (50% glue/50% water) and brush it onto the inside of the barrel.

This mixture is called size glue and is ideal for sealing this type of project

Step 3: Cut the barrel straps

To cut the wooden barrel, a track must be cut into the metal straps. The easiest way to do this is by using a dremel tool with a metal cutting accessory.

However, it is important to first secure the strap so that it stays in place once cut.

This is done by drilling a hole on each side of the planned cut and attaching a 1/2″ glue-coated tray or wafer head screw.

Once the 8 screws have been placed in place, it is time to cut the band. Inch and a half of band section to give enough room, keeping in mind that a smaller cut is more aesthetically pleasing.

I suggest using a dremel, but there are many options available: a grinder with a metal cutting wheel, a jigsaw (if accurate), or maybe even a pair of tin snips or a cutting saw (both would be difficult, but we work with what we have).

Step 4: Cut the barrel

For barrel cutting, it is best to use a table saw. Align the guide to hold the bottom of the barrel in the middle of the blade, and raise the blade up to about 2 inches, and make the bottom cut first.

Once the bottom cut is completed, align the blade with one of the corresponding cuts on the side of the barrel and lower the blade about an inch and cut the side.

It is important to keep the metal bands in mind while cutting the sides. Once one side is completed, repeat the cutting method on the other side.

This is something that several tools could achieve.

A hand saw (a little elbow grease), jigsaw, reciprocating saw, or band saw could also do this.

You can use a cut line as a guide if you use any of these methods. REMEMBER to be familiar with the tools you use and use them safely.

Step 5: Make and attach the back panel

The easiest way to make the back panel is to purchase a piece of wood that is either the size you need, 20″x13″ or the maximum width by maximum height depending on the size of your barrel.

I recycled planks from a previous project, so I had to cut and glue the back panel to the correct size.

Once you have a rectangular piece to use as a backing, trace the barrel profile on one of the back panels. Be sure to mark the panels so that they correspond to the correct half of the cylinder.

After you have a good trace, you can use a saw to cut the outline of the middle of your bucket. Do this with both backups.

Match the correct backings, glue along the edge of the barrel and with staples, nails or screws.

Step 6: Cutting and finishing the barrel

Finishing the backing of the bucket is not completely necessary, but it offers a nice touch.

These barrels were coated on each side with an outdoor wood finish, but if you used redwood you wouldn't have to do this.

Reseal the barrels after staining to help the pot last longer.

Make a hole for the plant to grow in, using a 2 1/2-inch saw bit and a drill to cut the center hole.

Start drilling the hole from the inside of the bucket, but switch to the outside before cutting completely.

This will prevent any form of splitting or fraying from occurring as the drill bit goes through.

Depending on how well the center of the barrel is caught, you may need to re-drill the second hole for the irrigation tube. Re-drill with a 5/16″-3/8″…

Step 7: Hang the planter

The planters used in this project were attached to a block parameter wall, so two holes were drilled in the back of each box to accommodate screws and masonry anchors.

These holes were copied into the wall where the planter would be hung, using a masonry bit, a hammer drill, and 1/4″x2 1/2″ masonry screws with a masonry bit.It was 5/16″.

In this project I used plastic anchors that were placed in the newly drilled holes. There are many other possible alternatives, but that is a personal preference.

Step 8: Irrigation system

Connect a piece of 1/4″ tubing from existing water lines (if available) through the smallest hole in each pot.

After you finish the tube, attach an adjustable flow drip emitter to easily change the flow for any variety of plants that can be used.

Step 9: Place the vegetables

Feeding a tomato plant through a 2 1/4″ hole can be difficult. First, start with a smaller plant and remove any fruit (don't worry, it will grow back).

The second and most important step is to wrap the plant in aluminum foil so it looks like a spike. The tang should be formed smoothly to a diameter of approximately 2″.

Once the "beak" is prepared, hold it upside down and pass it through the hole. Remove the foil, fill the pot with soil and enjoy.

My tomato plants have produced very well this year, and I contribute a lot with automatic irrigation.

Step 10: Tested variation

When I originally made these planters, I was forced to use smaller 7″ tall barrels. I had concerns about limited root space, so I built an extension with plastic netting and hung peat basket material (sorry I don't know exactly what it's called).

I cut the basket material into a square and rolled it into a 6″ diameter tube.

Then I used the plastic net as a frame to wrap and support this tube.

The plant was fed through the pot as normal, but I placed the tube over the roots of the plant and filled it with soil.

This gave the potential for a 12″ root base. Or should I call it top root?

It worked wonderfully, but I like the look of the new design better. Greetings!

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