Learn How to Build a Floating Bed with These Simple Steps! 2026

Learn How to Build a Floating Bed with These Simple Steps, he wanted to be able to put a desk or sofa under the bed in the room and thus have space for activities, so he asked me to build a loft bed that was stronger and cheaper than a bunk tent.

Learn How to Build a Floating Bed

Supply list:

• 3 Boards – 2x6 by 16 feet long
• 2 Boards – 2x4 by 16 feet long
• 1 Sheet of 4x8 ft 1/2″ plywood
• 2 PVC pipes 10 feet long (2″)
• 1 Tube length of 5 feet (3″)
• 14 PVC End Caps (2″)
• PVC cleaner
• Glue
• Screws approximately 84 of 2 1/2″
• 1…wood glue thing
• 1…gas tube length 5 feet
• 2…gas pipe iron floor flange
• 2 Lag bolts per wall stud, I used 16 lag bolts 4 1/2″ long
• 16 Washers

For the tube end caps I used 4 1 1/2″ lag bolts for the bed and 4 4″ lag screws for the roof, each lag bolt has a washer.

Step 1: Measure the mattress

I built the base to go around the mattress and left one end long, so later I had enough length to find a ceiling joist, each corner was glued and had four 2¹/² screws.

Step 2: Cut and Install the Plywood

I glued and screwed 1/2″ plywood to the bottom every 5 inches and then installed a clamp. (I didn't glue it) in case I could feel it under the mattress and needed to remove it, then I painted it.

Note: I did not paint the outside of the frame, I did not install the rails yet before installing the bed on the wall and I had to sand the paint to glue it and screw it in place, it was not a problem but it was more work.

Step 3: Studs in the Wall

With a level stud finder and an extra set of hands, we set the base in place and I drilled holes in each stud and used two 4 1/2″ lag bolts on each stud

Step 4: Corner Clamp

For this clamp, I used 1/2″ black steel gas tubing and 2 iron floor flange end caps. The end of the roof is screwed to a beam, I braced myself for resistance and screwed the pipe in.

The other end was cut and welded. I used a 2/6 piece of scrap metal to bend the end and make notches to place it over the gas pipe for support and to hide it

I cut a 3″ PVC pipe to the proper length and wrapped it over the pipe

I weigh 220 pounds and I jumped up and turned around to see if he would hold me and he didn't move. I also put the dog there, what a coward he didn't like heights

Step 5: Bed Rail

I measured 15″ for the brackets and cut a 2″ hole a half inch from the top to put 2″ PVC through it, then folded the top and angled the bottom of each bracket, glued and screwed them to the 2x6 bed frame

Step 6: The staircase

I used a 2x4 board and drilled 2″ holes every 10 inches and kept them close to the top side for added strength.

Initially I made 3 stringers because I thought the PVC wouldn't be strong enough but I tried it with only 2 because of my own weight and it didn't move. The stringers are spaced 17 1/2″ apart and screwed into the base and top of the bed and each PVC step has a screw on each side to prevent sliding before putting the caps on.

Step 7: Paint will be needed

The one you like the most.

Step 8: Tape and Paint

I taped the parts I didn't want purple and removed most of the PVC so I wouldn't paint them and then started painting.

Step 9: Finishing

I cut some molding to fit between the rails to hide the edge of the plywood, then painted it and let it dry before installing

Step 10: The end caps for the PVC

Do not forget to place the covers for the PVC pipes, they will help make it look more aesthetic.

Similar Ideas:

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