Base Made of Concrete for Parasol/Umbrella! 2026

Concrete Umbrella Base is relatively inexpensive and makes an attractive concrete mold that can be reused for dozens of molded pieces. The size of your umbrella will determine the diameter of the pipe that will be housed in the concrete, as well as the overall size of the base. For larger umbrellas or spaces, you will want a larger base that weighs around 100 pounds. Smaller is made on a base that weighs about 60 pounds.

Materials and supplies:

• MELODI Pendant lamp – IKEA or similar plastic container
• 3/4″ plywood (approximately 16″ x 16″) for base
• 3/4″ plywood
• 2″ galvanized pipe with floor flange or PVC pipe (actual size is determined by the pole of your umbrella).
• 1″ x 3/4″ foam strip 50″ long, covered with clear tape
• 100% silicone caulk
• Plasticine

Tools:

• 2-1/2″ saw and drill
• Pre-drilling and countersinking bit
• 1-1/4″ drywall screws
• Angle grinder
• Concrete polisher (optional)

Concrete mix:

• Outdoor Concrete Pro-Formula Mix
• More than 100 pounds of Sakrete concrete mix or similar
• Rubber gloves and dust mask
• Mixer

Step 1: Assembling the shape

Base board: 

The first step is to make the base table. A piece of 3/4″ plywood works well, cut to 16″ x 16″ or just larger than the outside diameter of the lamp shade.
Draw diagonal lines to find the center point.

Use a 2 to 2-1/2″ hole saw to drill a hole through the base for the pipe to pass through.

Center tube:

Take a piece of galvanized pipe, 10″ to 12″ long, and screw it to the bottom of the base plate with a floor or ceiling flange.

The galvanized pipe should be centered in the 2.5″ hole.

If you are using length PVC pipe, cut a hole that is as close to the outside diameter of the pipe as possible to achieve a very tight fit.

Cover the top end of the pipe with a piece of Styrofoam or foam insulation and clear packing tape.

Attach the lamp shade to the Base:

Put some play dough on the flat side of the umbrella as shown. Slide it over the galvanized pipe and press it down onto the base plate.

The clay will help seal the bottom of the mold and prevent concrete from getting under the mold and lifting it during pouring.

A thick bead of silicone will also work, but it is messy and the caulking gun will not fit the lampshade.

Place a bead of 100% silicone around the outside edge of the form where it meets the base plate. Be careful not to hit and dislodge the form. The silicone will dry in a few hours and will help keep everything in place.

Foam strip:

At the bottom of the piece it will help prevent splintering when the concrete is dragged.

This is one of the most complicated steps, but it is not completely necessary.

Cut a 1″ long strip of foam insulation and cover all sides with clear tape.

Use spray adhesive on one side and work the foam strip around the top edge of the form.

Without the tape, the foam will not be as tightby folding and trimming the excess so the edges meet.

Wooden clamp:

The form may float or be knocked over during filling.

Cut two boards that are the height of the lamp shade plus 3/4″ for the thickness of the base.

Screw them into two sides of the motherboard.

Cut a third board to join from the top, this board should be snug against the top of the form, helping to keep it in place.

Screw the top board and the form is ready for filling.

Step 2: Concrete

Clean:

Clean the inside of the form with soapy water and remove any debris.

Decoration:

Add decorative, inlay or other decoration with spray adhesive. This piece had some decorative addition and a stone inlay on the top surface. It's subtle but it looks good.

Mixture:

Read the instructions on the bag or have prior knowledge.

• Wear rubber gloves and a mask.
• Add 120 pounds of concrete to a wheelbarrow, plus Outdoor Pro-Formula.
• Mix until uniform in color.
• Add about 1 gallon of water and mix with a concrete shovel or hoe. Continue mixing for about 5 minutes and add water until the mixture reaches the correct consistency.
• Avoid a thick mixture! The ideal blend will have some body and you can hold it in your hand. Too much water and it will run through your fingers. Too little water will make the mixture sandy.

Pour: 

Place the form on a level surface.

Fill the form with concrete. Don't fill all the way to the top! Fill it halfway with the foam strip.

Leaving a gap will help the concrete leave the form later.

Vibrate: 

Lift one edge of the form an inch above the table and position it repeatedly to help air bubbles rise to the surface.

Tapping on the sides of the shape will also help, but be careful.

Dry:

After filling the form, cover it with plastic.

This will help keep moisture in the concrete and minimize cracks.

Allow the concrete to dry on a level surface, out of direct sunlight for 3-4 days.

A temperature of 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit is perfect.

Step 3: Remove the mold

• Unscrew and remove the flange from the base plate.
• Remove the motherboard.
• Remove the foam strip by digging with a flat screwdriver.
• Turn the mold over, place the edge of the mold on a board and let it fall gently until the concrete is released.

Step 4: Finishing

Finish:

• Remove the galvanized pipe with a cutting saw or grinder.
• Polish the top with an orbital polisher.
• Fill the air pockets with a compatible color.

Rubbers for the base: Install some rubber bands on the base to make legs, drilling small holes and fixing them in place with epoxy. This will help eliminate floor damage from dragging the umbrella base.

Drainage: Break a hole in the center of the concrete to drain it.

Sealed: 

• You don't need to air seal the pieces, but it will give them a nice shine and keep them looking good for a long time.

Thank you for reading this article!

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