Building a Fantastic Epoxy Resin Table with a Waterfall Effect, ideal for decorating your home with such a cute and eye-catching object. Continue reading to learn how to build this incredible table.
Step 1: Materials and tools
Tools used:
- RIDGID 18V Circular Saw
- RIDGID 18V Grinder
- Lincoln MP210 MIG Welder
- Table saw
Materials/Supplies
- Hardwood Live Edge Slab
- 1″ square steel tube
- Epoxy Resin
- Sealing tape
- Metallic pigments
Step 2: Split and prepare the wood





It started with a cherry slab with some nice curves. To find the best cutting line, use a string and center at each end of the slab.
Divide to form two halves. Use a jointer and planer to get them flat and ready for the next steps.
The slabs were too thick and long, so they were cut to the size needed for the miter saw.
The final preparation steps were to fill any cracks in the edges of the slab with 5 minute epoxy, then sand and clean the edge for the epoxy pour.
Step 3: Build the shape





Use MDF for the form, but plywood or melamine can also be used here. To prevent the resin from adhering to the form, cover the pieces with special tape.
Screw the sides to the base of the form and then seal the inside corners with more tape. You will probably have to use silicone in the corners. Place the slabs into the form, tighten the wood, and screw to the form from below. You can also clip them on if you don't want holes in the bottom.
I also glued some small gaps to the end of the slabs to keep the epoxy out. The last thing I did to prepare the form was to level it so the epoxy would flow.
Step 4: Measure and Pour the Epoxy



To get the amount of epoxy you needed, measure the space between the slabs in segments 4 to 8″ at a time and multiply the average space by the length of that segment. I added all those numbers and multiplied by the height of the slab to get the total volume of the gap.
Use an epoxy with a 2 to 1 resin in the hardener mix. Use a two-color pour, so measure 1.5L of the 2 to 1 mixture into one container and 1L into the other.
Add a little metallic pigment to the epoxy resin and shake each mixture for several minutes. Place the epoxy on both ends at the same time. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but it worked for me. When the colors were mixed the result was incredible.
Step 5: Build a metal base




Simple metal base using 1″ square tubing. Welded into a C shape with an extOpen paddle for a floating look.
Drilled mounting holes in the base for the top, I primed it and sprayed it on matte black paint and a matte clear coat.
Step 6: Clean the top







After the 72 hour drying time is complete, unscrew and remove the sides of the mold and then remove the slab from the form.
Use a 13″ planer to level the wood with the epoxy and remove excess from the bottom. You can also use a belt sander for this step on a larger piece.
Sand the wood down to 180 grit and take the epoxy down to 400 grit. I'll probably do this after using glue next time.
Step 7: Make the edge of the waterfall





Use your table saw and a crosscut sled and angle the blade at 45 degrees for the initial bevel on the larger vertical piece.
I then turned the smaller top inside out and beveled it with a matching miter. I moved the blade back to 90 degrees and cut the largest piece to the exact size of the base.
To glue the miter, line up the pieces with the miters facing down and place a piece of masking tape over the seam.
Flip the top and use 5 minutes of epoxy resin for this connection and apply generously to one side of the joint, then bend the groin and secure with right angle squares.
Step 8: Finish and Assemble the River Board




Apply a two-part oil-based finish to the slab and cherry. The epoxy will come to life. Polish the oil on the surface.
Mount the base upside down. Leave the top of the base open at the back, so at no time does the metal cross under the epoxy and obscure the light passing through. Greetings!
Learn more at perfectionidea.com and on our Facebook for more Steps to Build a Wooden Step Cabinet.
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