DIY: Lighting and Concrete 2026

DIY: Lighting And Concrete, concrete is a really great material to work with and is not very complicated if you are well prepared.

Design:

It is important that it is possible to obtain the shape of the mold you want. Therefore, the more advanced your design, the more difficult it will be to remove it from the mold without damage.

Also, think about the weight. You want to use as little concrete as possible, but the thinner it is, the more difficult it will be to make the mold. I wouldn't recommend going below 1-1/2″ thick. I printed the drawing with measurements and began making the mold out of plywood and 2×4.

The mold was made so that almost all parts and sides could be disassembled.

Varnish/lacquer:

Then all parts received a few thick coats of varnish/lacquer. This gives you a smooth surface that can handle water and another that will protect the mold.

Wiring and internal mold:

It is important to plan the wiring.

There are several ways to do this, I try to explain several ways that can be combined to suit your design.

For this lamp design, I have done it two different ways. The first time, I used 2″ PVC pipe from the bulb area to 6″ pipe for the main cavity area.

The second time, I used styrofoam from the bulb area leading to a conical cardboard box explained below.

Using the cardboard box, I was able to create a larger cavity and use a little less concrete, both ways worked well.

Styrofoam:

You can use Styrofoam where you want cavities. Cut the styrofoam to the shape you need to feed the wire and install the bulb.

Where necessary, Styrofoam can be hot glued to the mold to hold it in place, as it will release easily once the concrete has dried.

However, in some areas, you must place the Styrofoam while pouring the concrete and hold it down so it stays in place.

You should also keep in mind that you have to pick up the Styrofoam piece piece by piece to get it out, which may take a while or use acetone.

Internal mold:

(See photo #8) You can make an internal mold to make the lamp more hollow and weigh less.

However, it is challenging to create a uniform wall thickness and going below 1-1/2″ could be risky. Working with an internal and external mold is more demanding and probably not something you want to try the first time.

The ideal shape for an internal mold is conical, so it can be removed once the concrete has dried.

A simple way to do this is to make one out of cardboard and cover it with tape. Due to the low weight, the concrete will push against the cardboard box while filling the mold with concrete.

Therefore, it is a good idea to place a contractor's bag inside the box and gradually fill it with sand when pouring the concrete.

This way, the box will remain in place. Note where you want the passages inside the lamp. The inner mold box needs to touch the duct or Styrofoam pieces leading to the bulb.

PVC:

You can use PVC pipe as conduit for the cable and mold around the pipe. This is an easy way to do it, but it depends on the design. Also keep in mind that it is very likely that you will not be able to remove the PVC again.

Fused cable:

The easiest way to do this is to place the cable in the concrete. You won't be able to change the cable, but it is fairly well protected. Again, it's a matter of preference, design and weight.

Mold preparation:

Before pouring concrete, you must coat all sides of the mold. You can use practically any type of oil.

Concrete and pouring:

I used approximately 1 80 pound bag of cement. A cement mixer is really convenient and allows you to get the right consistency. You want the mixture to be medium, not too wet and not too dry. It all depends on how advanced the mold is.

Be sure to go slowly when you start pouring the concrete. Use a small bucket or similar. Use your hands to tap and move the concrete around to make sure it reaches out into the corners. Also, if you need to use Styrofoam, make sure it stays where you want it when you pour.

As you progress with the concrete, use an oscillating sander or similar to vibrate the concrete.

Vibration causes the concrete to move and helps fill any voids/air pockets that could become trapped. You may notice the concrete sinking a little, which is a sign that a void has been filled.

When the mold is full, put a piece of plastic to cover it for a day. Let the mold dry for 2-3 days before trying to remove it.

Demolding:

It's exciting, but go slow. Try starting with the simplest sides first. Back sides or flat surface sides.

This will give you an idea of how the concrete has dried. You may need to let it dry a little more. It will be easy to say.

That's all! Greetings!

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