Modern Infinity Mirror Table Lamp and LED Lights! 2026

Modern Infinity Mirror Table Lamp and LED Lights, I am going to describe how to make a modern style infinity mirror, which also works great as a table lamp and looks fantastic.

The infinity mirror is powered by a low-voltage DC power supply and employs LED lights.

#1: Parts and tools

• Wood Pallet 297x68x31mm
• 12V white LED tape
• Mirror sheet
• 2-way mirror
• Silver reflective film (An alternative to 2-way mirror film)
• Transparent acrylic sheet (Used in conjunction with a silver reflective mirror film)
• Aluminum strip
• Speaker cable
• 22swg/21awg enameled copper wire
• DC Power Connector Adapter
• 12 volt, 2 amp DC power supply
• Router
• Router Table
• Router bits – 3mm or 1/8″
• Miter saw
• Drill
• Drill press
• Forstner Drill Bit
• Countersink drill bit
• Welder
• Hot glue gun
• Magnifier with headband

#2: How an infinite mirror works

• An infinity mirror consists of a two-way mirror at the front, a regular mirror at the back, and lights between them.
• A two-way mirror is a partially reflective mirror, meaning it reflects some light and allows the rest to pass through.
• Light bounces between the mirrors, with the two-way mirror allowing some light to pass through each time.
• This creates a series of reflections with decreasing intensity, leading to the illusion of the lights fading into the distance.

#3: Wooden base

• The base consists of a length of wood the same width as the mirror leaves.
• Square up one end of the wood with a miter saw.
• Measures 297 mm (8″).
• Cut the wood lengthwise.
• Rout two slots in the top face with a 3mm or 1/8″ straight bit.
• Sand the block of wood to improve the finish.

#4: Frame template

• In the infinity mirror, a rectangular aluminum frame supports the LED light strips. The corners of the frame are rounded, to facilitate the application of the two LED strips.
• The LED tape can only be cut after every third LED in the marked positions, so it is important that the inner circumference of the box matches the length of the driven tape, otherwise there will be a gap on the LED display.
• The framework is formed around a simple template. This consists of 4 discs cut from a plastic kitchen cutting board, screwed to a sheet of wood.
• Cuts 4 15 mm discs.
• Drill 4 holes in a sheet of wood in a rectangular pattern.
• Screw the four discs to the wooden sheet.
• Cut a block of wood and screw it to the sheet of wood.

#5: Fold the frame to shape

• Punch or drill a hole in the end of the aluminum strip.
• Screwthe aluminum strip to the wooden block.
• Fold the aluminum strip around each of the discs.
• Cut the excess aluminum strip with metal scissors or a hacksaw.
• Check that the corners are square and that the corner dimensions are equal.
• Verify that the driven tape fits correctly inside the aluminum frame.
• Drill or drill three additional mounting holes in the bottom of the frame.
• Countersink the holes.

#6: Drill holes in the base to hide the wiring

• To hide the wires that supply power to the LEDs, holes are drilled through the wood and a slot is cut underneath.
• Secure the aluminum frame to the base with wood screws.
• Cut a piece of LED tape to fit around the outside of the frame.
• Please note that the LED tape can only be cut at the marked positions.
• Remove the backing of the tape and place it on the outside of the frame.
• If the adhesive is a little weak at any time, then I have found that the glue works well. I used this on the edges of the LED tape for extra strength.
• Punch two holes in the center of the frame, the same width apart as the contacts on the LED strip.
• Mark the edge of the frame on the wood with a pencil.
• Unscrew the frame from the wood.
• Mark the width of the conducted tape contacts on the previously marked edge line and use this to determine the best position for the externally-conducted cable holes.
• Drill two wire holes for the exterior LED strip.
• Enlarge the two wire holes for the internal LED strip.
• To facilitate the passage of the cables, partially countersink the holes.

#7: Route a slot in the base to hide the wiring

• To keep the wiring between the internal and external LEDs hidden, route a slot in the bottom of the base.
• Configure stop blocks on the router table.
• Using a 6mm or 1/4″ straight drill bit, place a slot between the two sets of holes along the wood base.
• It is also optional to drill some larger clearance holes at the ends of the slot.

#8: Drill a hole for the power cord

• The power cord is fed through the back of the wooden base into the slot. The cable I used is double speaker cable.
• Drill two holes side by side from the back of the wooden base to the slot.
• Use the drill to form a single oval hole.
• Check that the power cord can pass through the oval hole.

#9: Lacquer on the base

All the work on the base is now complete, so this is a good point to give it a final sanding, apply a coat of lacquer and let it dry.

#10: Wiring of the exterior LED

• Solder two lengths of enameled copper wire to the LED strip on the outside of the frame.
• Pass the wires through the outer holes in the top of the wooden base.
• Screw the frame back into the wooden base, making sure the holes line up.
• Cut a length of the power supply cable and feed it through the oval hole on the back of the base.
• Strip the ends of the wires from the power cord.
• Peel the enamel off the enameled copper wires.
• Tin the bare part of the enameled copper wires with a soldering iron.
• Wrap the power supply wires around the tinned portion of the enameled copper wires.
• Make sure this is done in such a way that the heat shrink tubing can be pulled over the free ends of the cables to cover the joints later.
• Connect the negative side of the LED strip to the striped side of the power cord.
• Solder the wires together.
• Push the heat shrink tubing over the enameled wires and cover the joints.
• Apply heat to the heat shrink tubing with a heat gun.
• Push the free ends of the enameled copper wires through the two holes in the center of the wooden base and aluminum frame.

#11: Internal LED wiring

• Cut a piece of led tape to fit around the frame.
• Find the contacts in the center of the tape and with a pin make holes in the contacts.
• Using a knife and/or sandpaper, remove the enamel from the copper wires, up to just where the wires exit the frame.
• I also added some small pieces of heat shrink over the wires and in the holes, flush with the top of the frame.
• Cut the adhesive away from the center of the LED strip.
• Place the LED strip over the wires making sure the polarity is correct.
• Remove part of the backing and apply the LED strip along the bottom of the frame.
• Solder the wires to the LED strip and cut the wires flush.
• Remove the rest of the LED strip backing and place it around the frame.

If all goes well, the ends of the LED strip should be even and two short lengths of wire can be soldered between the contacts on each side. This helps strengthen the strip mechanically and also creates some electrical redundancy.

#12: Power adapter

• To power the LED lights, a two amp 12 volt regulated power supply is used. They usually come with a 2.1mm/5.5mm connector, so a DC connection terminal to screw terminal adapter was used to connect it to the LED cable.
• Strip the wires from the power cord.
• Insert the striped cable into the negative side of the connector and the flat cable into the positive side of the connector.
• Screw the connector terminals onto the wires.

#13: Felt on the base

To protect the surfaces, the felt is glued to the wooden base.

I used ordinary PVA glue.

#14: Install thenormal mirror

• The normal mirror is installed in the rear slot of the base.
• The mirror is supplied with a protective cover and this is removed apart from the last ¾” of 19mm to protect the face of the mirror when placed in the slot.
• Acrylic picks up fingerprints very easily so it is best to wear gloves.

#15: How to identify the sides of a two-way mirror

• Two-way mirrors have two different sides, an acrylic side and a foil side.
• If the supplier has not indicated which side is which, then one can easily see by placing a flat card edge on each side of the mirror and looking to see if there is a visible gap between the card and its reflection.
• If you can see a gap, then it is the acrylic side.
• If you can't see a space, then that is the side of the sheet.

#16: Install the two-way mirror

• The two-way mirror is installed in the slot at the front of the base, with the acrylic side facing forward.
• Again, it is best to wear gloves during installation.

#17: Cleaning

Acrylic scratches easily and two-way mirror foil is easily damaged, so it's important to keep the supplier's recommendations in mind when it comes to cleaning.

I found that a thin microfiber cloth used for cleaning glasses is the best option for small marks.

#18: Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed this article; It's one of my favorite projects and gets amazing reactions from people seeing it for the first time.

#19: Video

Thank you for taking the time to read.

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