Making Bent Metal Hooks! 2026

Making Bent Goal Hooks, my brother commissioned me to replicate some bent metal hooks he had found in a store. I have some experience bending metal, so I figured it would be a relatively easy job. However, in practice it ended up being a little more complicated than I initially thought.

Step 1: Measurements

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I decided to use a 3/16″ x 3/4″ steel bar to construct the five hooks. I decided on 3/16″ over 1/8″ steel as I wanted the hooks to be strong enough to hang significant weight without risk of bending. I bought a single 3′ steel bar.

The design of these hooks is quite ingenious, as it allows two garments to be attached to each hook. Each hook is made from a 6.5″ steel bar. Starting at the bottom, a 45° bend is made 1/2″ from the end of the bar. Moving another 1″ along the bar, a second bend is made at 90°. The final bend is made at 45° at a distance of 2″ from the top end of the bar. Using these dimensions, both the bottom and top hook protrude approximately the same distance from the surface where the hook is mounted.

I used the following tools for this build:

• Square
• Metal cutting band saw (a bow saw or angle grinder would also work)
• Robust vise
• Supplement
• Hammer
• Punch
• Bench grinder and wire wheel
• Metal drill bits

Step 2: Cut the metal

The steel bar was cut to 6.5″ in length with a metal cutting band saw. If you don't have a metal cutting band saw, a hacksaw or angle grinder would also make quick work of this step.

After cutting the metal to length, it was marked 1/2″ and 1.5″ from one end. These marks will be used to make the first two curves.

Step 3: The first curve

To make the first bend, the metal was carefully pressed in the press along the 1/2″ mark. I used a square combination to make sure the bar was at a perfect 90° angle to the top of the press. This is essential to make a square curve.

The bar was then heated along the bend line with a flashlight. With the bar red hot, I used the hammer to bend it to 45°. The large head of the hammer did not allow me to hit directly along the curve, resulting in a larger bend radius than I wanted. To fix this, I reheated the bend and used a large stroke to tighten the radius.

Step 4: The second curve

For the second bend, the bar was tightened along the 1″ mark from the first bend. Since the jaws on my vise were 1″ wide, I simply slid the first curve up against the bottom of the jaws. When clamping the bar in the vise, the pre-bent end should be placed toward the back of the vise (away from you).

As with the first bend, the bar is heated along the bend line and bent with the hammer. Since this bend is made at 90°, the hammer was able to create a very tight radius without the need for the punch.

Step 5: The third curve

The third and final curve was made using the same techniques as the first two curves. After marking the bar 2″ from the unbent end, it was tightened in the vise along this line, making sure the previous bends were away from me. The bar was heated along the bend line and bentset it to 45° using the hammer and tap as necessary. I used the combination square to measure the bend angle.

To ensure the finished hooks are smooth, I recommend bending them in a vise with smooth jaws. My vise had broken jaws and marked the hooks a bit. If you are going for a rough look this may be beneficial, but not if you want to keep the hooks smooth.

Step 6: Clean

After bending the five hooks, I rounded all of their edges with a bench grinder. This step is important if you don't want to tear the clothes you hang on the hooks. I also quickly polished the hooks using the wire wheel on the bench grinder.

I also drilled two holes in each hook for mounting. The size you use for these holes will depend on the mounting equipment you would like to use.

Step 7: Enjoy your hooks

Although the hooks were made individually, I was pleasantly surprised at how similar they all were to each other. This similarity is important since these hooks will be placed next to each other.

They are by no means perfect, and as I mentioned above, they are a little rough due to the jaws in the vise and hammer blows. Ideally, I would have a bending brake capable of bending this gauge of steel, but I haven't done that yet.

Greetings!

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