This country diary captures a journey from a landmark clump of beech trees loaded with mast to the hot Surrey Hills during the second summer heatwave. The car brushes through lanes of rampant deciduous growth woven with bedstraw, honeysuckle, and incipient fruits of bramble, offering a vivid snapshot of rural England in late summer.
Traveling Through the English Countryside
Starting near the Tamar, the route passes a neighbor's cut and cleared hayfield overlooking luminous flowers of sweet chestnut, with dead ash in Nanie Rowe's wood. Across the river, a patchwork of woods and pastures gives way to the first lorry-load of straw—essential supplies for winter bedding. By Exeter, the dampness eases off, and the motorway cutting through red sandstone reveals fertile arable land, much of it encroached on by suburbs.
Along slower stretches, features like the wooded eminence of Cadbury Castle stand out beyond ubiquitous ragwort. Near Ilchester, Somerset, trailers of chopped cut-whole straw stems and unripened grain are carted along the three-lane highway, signaling the harvest season.
Chalk Country and Ancient Landmarks
Ancient lynchets by Mere, Wiltshire, mark the start of proper chalk country, where coombs and winterbournes of rough pasture are interspersed with rolling downland of gold and brown cereals, some already harvested. Leafy green maize will be ensiled for winter fodder. Swags of old man's beard clothe the bushy verges, and tumuli precede the always spectacular ring of people encircling Stonehenge.
As the journey nears London, the nervous passenger shuts her eyes to blot out lanes filled with lorries and fast-moving traffic. Welcome relief comes with an afternoon picnic in the part-shaded haven surrounding Hatchlands Park, an 18th-century country house with paintings and early keyboard instruments.
Arrival in the Surrey Hills
Descending Ranmore Common, the heat increases around the 265-acre vineyard by Dorking. The River Mole is low, and the windmill on Reigate Heath's golf course overlooks the final destination. Home, after five days away, is hot; blackcaps have quietened, and the landscape feels transformed by the heatwave.
Comparison of Landscapes Along the Route
| Region | Key Features | Observations |
|---|---|---|
| Devon/Cornwall | Beech trees, hayfields, sweet chestnut | Lush growth, damp conditions |
| Somerset | Straw trailers, arable land | Harvest in progress |
| Wiltshire | Chalk country, lynchets, Stonehenge | Gold and brown cereals |
| Surrey | Vineyards, golf course, Hatchlands Park | Hot, dry conditions |
Key Takeaways from This Country Diary
- The journey highlights the diversity of English landscapes from beech trees to chalk downlands.
- Summer heatwaves intensify the rural experience, with harvests and dry rivers.
- Historic landmarks like Stonehenge and Hatchlands Park offer cultural respite.
- Wildlife such as blackcaps and plants like old man's beard thrive in late summer.
- Travel tips: plan picnic stops in shaded areas to avoid heat.
FAQ
What is the best time to visit the Surrey Hills?
The Surrey Hills are beautiful year-round, but late summer during a heatwave offers warm weather and harvest scenes. Spring and autumn provide milder temperatures and vibrant foliage.
What wildlife can be seen along this route?
Common sightings include blackcaps, brambles, honeysuckle, and old man's beard. In chalk country, look for wildflowers and birds adapted to dry grasslands.
Are there any historic sites to visit near the Surrey Hills?
Yes, Hatchlands Park is a notable 18th-century country house with art and keyboard instruments. Stonehenge is also along the route for those traveling from the west.
How does the heatwave affect travel in rural England?
Heatwaves can make travel uncomfortable, especially in traffic. It's advisable to carry water, seek shaded spots for breaks, and plan for cooler morning or evening drives.
This country diary offers a rich narrative of a journey through England's heartland during a summer heatwave, from beech trees to the Surrey Hills. Whether you're a nature lover or a traveler seeking rural escapes, the landscapes and landmarks along this route provide a memorable experience.