For over 60 years, Giacomo Fiorello has been crafting handmade shoes for men and women, still using the tools he learned to master at age 9. His boundless passion for shoemaking is something he would love to pass on to young people through workshops, but unfortunately his offer goes unanswered – the trade seems destined to disappear. A simple, warm-hearted man who has been president of the Università dei Calzolai since 1975, he also holds the title of Knight Officer of the Italian Republic and received the Piedmont Region Award for Artisan Excellence. He also serves as the municipal delegate for several areas of Novara for Confartigianato.

The point is: you don’t need a high-pressure managerial career to find fulfillment. You can thrive in a tiny, neighborhood workshop. Yet people seem to prefer a stressful life full of job uncertainty. If this serves as motivation, the earning potential in shoemaking is more than decent: initial equipment investment is around €5,000–6,000, and a custom, handcrafted pair of shoes sells very well. With the resurgence of Made in Italy and international demand for our goods, there are interesting opportunities for global commerce – after plenty of humble, dedicated apprenticeship, of course. Giacomo Fiorello doesn’t think about that anymore; he continues, for now, with old-school techniques. But his regular customers refuse to accept that he might stop making handmade shoes. Unfortunately, instead of being encouraged, these realities are smothered by endless bureaucratic red tape. Still, a young mind with good will and the right tools can revive this craft.
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The Tools of the Trade
Every handmade shoe begins with proper equipment. Here are the essential tools every aspiring shoemaker needs – many of which you can find in our Home Improvement collection.
- Lasts (shoe forms): Wooden or plastic forms that shape the shoe. Different lasts are used for different foot shapes and styles.
- Awls and needles: For piercing and stitching thick leather. A curved awl is especially important for the inseam.
- Hammer and lasting pliers: To pull leather tightly over the last and secure it.
- Cutting knives and skiving knives: For cutting leather patterns and thinning edges.
- Brushes, dyes, and polishes: For finishing and protecting the leather.
For a complete workshop setup, browse our home improvement tools and garden supplies – many of the same heavy-duty items double as workshop essentials.
The Lasts: The Heart of the Shoe
The last is the mold around which the entire shoe is built. Giacomo still uses antique wooden lasts, each one carved for a specific foot shape and size. Modern lasts are often made of high-density plastic, but the principle remains the same: the last determines fit, toe shape, and heel height. If you’re setting up a workshop, you’ll need a range of lasts – and a sturdy work surface to mount them on. We also recommend a comfortable office chair for long hours of hand-stitching.
Needle, Thread, Glue & Special Irons
Hand-sewing a shoe requires waxed linen thread, a set of curved needles, and a special technique called “lock stitching.” Shoemakers also use a variety of irons: edge irons for smoothing sole edges, heel irons for shaping heels, and creasing irons for decorative lines. Good lighting is critical for precision work – check out our Lighting collection for task lamps and magnifying lights. And don’t forget a proper storage bench to keep your tools organized.
Setting Up Your Workshop
To start making handmade shoes, you need a dedicated space. Here’s a checklist:
- A sturdy workbench or work surface with a vise.
- Good task lighting for detailed stitching.
- Storage for lasts, leather, and tools – consider shelving units or a storage bench.
- A comfortable chair for long sitting sessions.
- For drying and storing finished shoes, a display shelf or étagère works beautifully.
FAQ: Handmade Shoemaking
1. How much does it cost to start making handmade shoes?
Initial investment for tools and materials is around €5,000–6,000. You’ll need lasts, awls, knives, hammers, glue, and leather. Many of these items can be sourced from our Home Improvement and Garden Supplies collections.
2. Can I learn shoemaking online?
Yes, there are online courses and tutorials, but nothing beats hands-on practice. Giacomo recommends finding a mentor or attending a workshop. Meanwhile, set up a dedicated workspace with good lighting and a comfortable office chair.
3. What kind of leather is best for handmade shoes?
Full-grain vegetable-tanned leather is the traditional choice. It’s durable, molds to the foot, and ages beautifully. You’ll also need lining leather, sole leather (often oak-bark tanned), and insole materials.
4. How long does it take to make one pair of shoes by hand?
A skilled artisan like Giacomo can make a pair in 20–30 hours. Beginners should expect 40–60 hours per pair. Patience and precision are key.
5. Is there a market for handmade shoes today?
Absolutely. Custom, handmade shoes are in demand, especially for those with hard-to-fit feet or a taste for luxury. With the rise of Made in Italy, international customers are eager for authentic craftsmanship. To display your finished products, consider a display shelf or wall decor that showcases your work.
Final Thoughts
Giacomo Fiorello’s story is a reminder that true craftsmanship never goes out of style. With the right tools – many of which are available in our Home Improvement, Garden Supplies, and Lighting collections – and a passion for quality, you can revive this ancient art. Whether you’re a hobbyist or aspiring professional, start small, invest in good equipment, and let your hands do the talking.
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