Building a marking meter can be a very useful tool that you should have in your workshop, so this time we will leave you a small tutorial on how to do it.
This tool is used to very precisely mark distances to work pieces.
The one I have made is a traditional one and the wood I choose to use is a wonderful and quite rare wood called Carob (Ceratonia siliqua).
It is a very hard wood with a pink/red heartwood and a fairly white sapwood.
Old trees tend to have a large hole in the middle of the trunk, and this makes it even more difficult to find the right piece to work with.
Video:
Click to see the Video.
The tools to build a marking meter:
- Makita band saw
- Drill
- Router and its a table
- Japanese mountain range
- A chisel
- Rasps
- Sandpaper.
Step 1: Sketch

Before starting any project, I use to make a quick sketch of what I'm going to do, or I chose an old sketch from my sketchbook to correct my ideas about the forms and materials to be used.
In this case, I made a sketch on a tan notepad with a brown HI-TEC-C pen.
This pen has a water-soluble ink, so you can shade the stroke by adding a little water with a brush.
Step 2: Technical drawings


This step is not strictly necessary, but, for every piece I make, I use it to precisely define the design and do it in a way that it can be reproduced in exactly the same way.
So I 3D modeled it using Fusion 360, printed the two main pieces by drawing and cutting them to transfer the measurements onto the wood piece.
Step 3: Cutting the wood



After choosing the piece of wood I would like to use, from my yard, I cut a slab to the thickness I needed.
In this case, since the thickness of the final piece should have been one inch, I cut a little more.
Step 4: Cut the main parts




I then glued the drawings to the wood board, drilled the holes, and cut out the two main parts of the marking gauge with my band saw.
Step 5: Sand and size the pieces



After cutting the pieces, it was time to sand them to polish the cuts and round the corners.
I used a belt sander, rasps and files. I have also sized and adjusted the sliding piece by attaching a hand plane to my bench vice.
The coupling of the parts must also be very precise, so it is important to precisely square the sliding piece, so that it can slide freely in the groove.
Step 6: Making the groove




This is surely the most complicated part of the process, because the groove has to be perfectly square and precise in its dimension.
There are several ways to make this groove.
You can use a Router, ato table saw or a slot plane, but I preferred to use a Japanese saw and a chisel because it was just a short slot and I didn't risk messing with power tools.
The first step was to mark the slot using the sliding piece as a reference. I always prefer to do that instead of measuring.
I then cut the two edges of the slot with my Kataba saw and finally removed the excess with a chisel a little narrower than the slot.
I always checked the perpendicularity during the process.
Step 7: Working on the sliding piece




Another key step has been to add the slot to the sliding part.
To do that, I used my store-made router board and a 1/4 inch drill bit.
I then rounded the corners of the piece and drilled the hole to accommodate the marking sheet.
Step 8: The Knob




To make the knob I used a piece of the same wood.
First, I clamped the piece in a vice and marked it with a divider drawing and a hexagon.
Then I drilled the six holes to make it in the shape of a flower. I then cut it with my bending saw and refined it with the belt sander.
Finally, I glued a female brass screw into the center hole.
Step 9: The Sheet


To make the blade, I used an old 4mm drill bit which I first cut lengthwise and then shaped and sharpened with a small whetstone mounted on a drill.
Step 10: Finishing



Now you're onto the best part, it's time to apply the finish and see the real color of the beautiful wood I've used.
To finish, I used a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and when it had dried, I added a coat of wax and polished it.
Step 11: Final Touches



This is the final photo of the finished product. Remember that you can build your own marking meter easily.
Thank you for reviewing the construction. You should also watch the build video for the full experience:
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