How to Build Laundry Cabinets 2026

Learn how to build laundry cabinets quickly and easily to get rid of those empty shelves. It's easier than you think.

These cabinets are built from wall to wall so you can use every inch of space. Since usually laundry rooms come with a single wire rack.

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I also included a shelf above the appliances and a peg to hold hangers just below the cabinets.

Steps to follow to build laundry cabinets:

Remember to build laundry cabinets you will need some prior carpentry experience.

Step 1: How deep should your cabinets be?

Consider what you want to put in your laundry room cabinets. In my house we keep all our activities. This includes board games, swimming equipment, and blankets for the park's grass. Of course, there are also cleaning supplies and other household items, such as light bulbs.

I made my cabinets 13″ deep. You will see that I bought plywood that is normally used for flooring.

You may also be able to cut the sheets where you bought them. At this point, I ripped a 2x4 into 1″ strips. These strips will be the main supports for the cabinets.

Step 2: Support Strips

After you decide how many shelves you want, you need to find the studs on the wall. My favorite way to do this is with neodymium magnets. Trace a magnet on the wall and look for the head of a screw. When the magnet sticks, you know you have found a bolt (since the screw is on the bolt).

Screw down a strip with a screw and make sure it is level. Once leveled, add screws to the other bolt points.

Step 3: Adjust your shelves

Not all walls are square. As you can see in the second image, when I place my square in the corner, I have about a 1/4″ gap at the front of the right side. The left side was good. All I did was add a lot more to the front edge when I marked the cut line. It fits very well.

Now that all the shelves are installed, it's time to cover the compressed wood. Use shelf adhesive here. You can buy this in rolls at your home improvement store. I like to start the section at one end and then remove the adhesive that protects the paper underneath. When the paper is removed, the liner sticks to the shelf. This keeps the liner flat, which prevents unwanted bubbles.

Step 4: Face Frame Time

Since my opening was so large, I ended up using 5 pieces of wood for the face frame. Four for the sides and one for the middle. I like to use pocket screws to hold the joints together.

When the frame is in place, I simply nail it to the edge of the shelves. This is good because I'm going to paint it. If you want to stain the cabinets, screw the face frame to the shelves.

Cover any gaps around the edges with molding. I used my Router to make mine. Cut a section of crown molding for the top.

Step 5: Make the doors

This is just one way to make a cabinet door. I used the same pocket method. The only difference is that I cut slots in each piece of wood so I can slide on a panel. I used wainscoting to make the doors look elegant.

To help hang the doors, I cut a 1″ piece of wood for a spacer and attached it to the bottom molding. The doors sat on the spacer while I screwed the doors on. Finally I installed handles.

With everything lined up, I took it apart and painted it. All seams with the walls were sealed before painting.

Extra: 

I added a shelf just above the appliances and a place to store hangers just below the cabinets. It really helps, especially when folding clothes.

I made another set of cabinets for my bathroom (check them out in the fourth photo!). These cabinets didn't need to be that deep. So… I took one of the pieces of wood from the left layer that was 8 feet long and ran it through my table saw. I was cutting 1″ off the edge. Because this piece was so long, when I ran it through the saw it started to get heavy on the output side. I put more pressure on the wood so that it still contacted the blade.

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