Mid-Century Coffee Table is a common mid-century design to which I added some of my favorite details. Mainly box carpentry. I'm sorry the images are smaller.
I couldn't come up with any plans for this as I judged the height first by the height of my sofa, then by the proportion of the legs and the last opening of the box. The final product ended up being 24×48″ and the box is 9.5″ tall and the legs are 6″ tall.
My favorite wood is walnut and I ordered about 30 board feet of 4/4 S4S (surfaced on all 4 sides) from my local hardwood dealer.
I ordered a little more because of possible messes, so I'm not sure what my table ended up using.
Step 1: Thickness and surface of the wood

I roughly cut my pieces to size a couple of inches longer than needed for a good measurement (in case I messed up my box joints later) then ran all my boards through the thickness planer first to ensure a perfect glue.
With wood like S4S, this saved a lot of time by not having to use the jointer.
Step 2: Glue the panels


I used a wood biscuit joint on all the pieces for alignment while I glued everything together.
Step 3:

All panels glued. The look of the wood is incredible.
Step 4: Unions


Most of us have seen multiple variations of box joint jigs for the table saw, but when you have a piece that is 48-50″ long, that jig is a little small and I don't have the ceiling height to push the ends into my table saw.
So, I made a portable jig to use with the router that can trace the piece, since I cut each box individually.
It actually didn't take long once the template was set up.
Knowing that I had two side pieces and three vertical pieces, I wanted to cut them all at once for perfect alignment.
The template was made to sandwich all the pieces together. It worked surprisingly well.
Step 5: Dry Fit


The moment of truth.
The first dry fit
It was a little tight, but nothing a chisel couldn't fix.
Once this worked, I was able to mark the center jaws, which was probably the scariest thing.
You can see a little closer to a picture of the center mortises a few pictures down.
Step 6: Central Mortices



For the center mortises, I took the center vertical piece and placed it face down on top to mark my holes.
Then, cut into the perfect top… Take a deep breath. Most of the material using a forcing bit and I chiselled the square holes.
My biggest concern was that when I pushed the vertical piece into the mortises from the bottom, it would explode somewhat, but luckily the wood was hard enough for it to stay together.
Step 7: Assembly and glue

Now to paste it. There are never enough clamps. Fortunately, my workbench was super flat at the time and I used it as a reference for warping prevention.
Step 8: The legs

I wanted the legs to be 6″ tall and strong.
It's a coffee table, in the center of the room and I want to put my feet on it, sometimes I sit on it to put on my shoes or my child will want to crawl over it and jump when I'm not looking.
So I decided to open the mortise and tenons to attach the legs to the aprons.
Here is my tenon template modified to accept the angle I decided on.
Maybe a 20 degree angle? I don't remember. Do whatever makes you happy.
Step 9: Assembled legs

Here are the legs cut and glued.
I added some oak rods for decoration and possible additional strength.
The legs are attached to the box with screws.
Step 10:

Here is the piece before sanding and final finishing.
Step 11: The End



Now to disassemble and finish. I went with a satin polyurethane cloth.
About 4 layers throughout the piece and 6-7 layers on top. Even after accumulating so many coats, it still feels natural and water rings have not yet appeared after a year of use.
Step 12: Ready


Here is the final product. I still love it and would love to build another one someday just for the fun of it. Greetings!
Get more information at perfectionidea.com and on our Facebook for more Mid-Century Coffee Table.
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