Wheelchair Made of PVC Pipes! 2026

Wheelchair Made of PVC Pipes, is not designed to support a weight exceeding 200 pounds due to the structural integrity of the PVC and axle flexing. But as you can always modify the shaft to be larger, for my shaft this one experienced slight flex when people around 200 pounds sat on it.

All PVC used to make this chair is 1″., as well as the connectors. PVC is strengthened with common PVC cement that can be found at your local store.

Step 1: Tools and materials

Tools:

• Clamps (of your choice)
• Hot glue gun, (if you want to do the extra step on the shaft portion)
• Mask (if you are indoors and have a poorly ventilated area)
• Hammer
• Gloves, (rubber or latex)
• Paper towels or rags, (to clean up cement drips)
• Tape measure

Materials:

• Bicycle wheels, I suggest mountain bike, but if you have regular wheelchair wheels they might even be better, the only problem would be your method of attaching them. Be different.
• Axle (for attaching wheels, mine turned out to be a 3/8″ diameter metal rod, so throughout the article I will refer to it as 3/8 inch, but yours can be any size desired.
• PVC cement
• Wheels; The wheels I used were Everbilt 2in/50.8mm, with a capacity of 80 lb.

All the necessary PVC:

• 18 Pieces of 2-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 3 1/2 inch PVC
• 6 Pieces of 4-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 23-inch PVC
• 9 Pieces of 18-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 19-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 5 inches of PVC
• 4 Pieces of 4 1/2 inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 6-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 16-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 8-inch PVC
• 8 Pieces of PVC 2 5/8 inches
• 2 Pieces of 9-inch PVC

Step 2: Materials needed for the back of the wheelchair

• 6 Pieces of 2-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 3 1/2 inch PVC
• 6 Pieces of 4-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 23-inch PVC
• 3 Pieces of 18-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 19 inch PVC, these will be bent with a PVC bender to achieve a slight angle to accommodate the back and provide a slight degree of comfort.

Connectors:

• 8 T-connectors
• 2 90° Connectors
• 4 Side Outlet Connectors
• 2 3-way connectors

Step 3: Assembling the back of the wheelchair

(Complete all of these steps for both sides)

First take the two 3-way connectors and connect them using an 18″ piece of PVC (as seen in the image). Make sure the connector is oriented correctly or else you may have to repeat this process. the top of those add the 23″ pieces and leave them as is for now. then, from the end that has nothing attached, slide in a 2′ piece of PVC and then slide a T-connector up toward the exposed side of the pipe. Tighten this so that there is no longer any visible pipe. Once this is done, you will need to add another 2″ piece to the top of the T-connector.

Next place a piece of 18″ pipe between two side outlet tees and then slide it toward the exposed end of the pipe. (Once again make sure the connectors are oriented correctly, that they look exactly as they do in the picture.) once this is done, add a 4″ piece to the top of the tee with side outlet connectors, then place the regular tee connectors at a slight angle outward (the folded PVC will go in there later).

Then add and level using a 3 1/2″ piece and putting the regular T connectors facing outward as seen in the picture.

The next step is to add the last piece of 4″ pipe and then two connectorsAdditional T-s on top, at the same angle as those below so they can reach the same angle.

Now for the lid, or upper back. add the last 4″ piece to the top T-connectors and the cap with 90° connectors facing rear.

Using the last T-connectors with side outlets, connect them with an 18″ piece of PVC and then slide them on top. from the back of the chair.

Finally glue the last 2″ pipe between the T-connector with the side outlet and the 90° connector to finish the back of the chair. The exposed part of the back of the chair is where the handles will be placed later.

Step 4: Materials needed for the shaft part

Pretty simple

• 1 Piece of 18-inch PVC
• 2 T-connectors
• 1 Axle, (threaded or partially threaded metal rod) was 3/8 in diameter to allow the bicycle wheels to attach.

Step 5: Assembling the Wheelchair Axle Part

Assembling the axle part of the wheelchair is quite easy.

• First Step: Is to drill a 3/8 (or whatever size your shaft is) one inch hole in the center of each of the two T-connectors (as seen in the pictures). Once this is complete, you can move on to the next step.
• Second step (optional): What I did was insert a wooden block into the pipe and drill a hole all the way (a little larger than 3/8). securing it with hot glue all the way inside. I did this in hopes of reducing flex and increasing the structural integrity of the axle compartment. Although I can recommend this step, it is completely optional and unnecessary.
• Third Step: Is to attach the two T-connectors to the end of the 18″ pipe (BUT REMEMBER NOT TO PVC FINISH THIS PART OR ANY PART OF THE AXLE COMPARTMENT TO ANY PART OF THE CHAIR. IF YOU DO SO YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO SEPARATE IT AGAIN, AND IF ANY MAINTENANCE IS NEEDED, YOU WILL NEED TO DESTROY THE CHAIR TO REACH THE AXLE). Unless you plan to not need to make any modifications to the chair, I recommend not using PVC cement.

Step 6: Materials needed for the base (the rest of the chair)

• 5 Pieces of 18-inch PVC (6 are shown here, but one is used in the shaft portion)
• 2 Pieces of 5-inch PVC
• 4 Pieces of 4 1/2-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 6-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 16-inch PVC
• 2 Pieces of 8-inch PVC
• 8 Pieces of 2 5/8 inch PVC
• 12 Pieces of 2-inch PVC
• 8 T-connectors (10 are shown here, but two are used for the shaft part)
• 4 T-connectors for side outlets
• 4 45° Connectors
• 4 90° Connectors
• 2 4-way connectors
• 2 Covers

Step 7: Assemble the chair base

Assembling the chair base is probably the most difficult and annoying part of the chair. Always be sure to double check your chair with the pictures I have provided. first on the bottom layer you will need to insert a 4 1/2″ piece at the bottom and a 2 5/8″ piece at the top, as shown (make sure the only pipe pieces connected are at the top) these pieces are 2 5/8, the reason for the measurement is so specific that if you use any other length, the actual seat part will not fit).

Then, just at the bottom slide the axle part you already built onto the exposed end of the 4 1/2″ pipe. At the open end of the shaft portion, add a 5″ piece (BUT REMEMBER NOT TO CEMENT THESE TOGETHER). Then, on the exposed end of the 6″ piece, slide a 45° connector at the angle shown.

The next step is to attach another 45° connector facing the opposite direction. Connect them at 45° with a 2 inch piece of PVC, there is no PVC visible once they have been connected. Then, at the exposed 45° end of the connector, add a 2′ piece of PVC and slide a T-connector up onto the end.

The last step for the bottom of the chair add another 2″ piece to the end of the T-connector and slide a four-way connector onto the end.

The downward opening of the 4-way connector will be where the tubing that holds the support casters is located. now for the top, I suggest you build this separately, as shown in the pictures provided, use the 2 5/8″ PVC pieces and alternate them to attach the regular T connections.

Then once both sides are completed, glue the 18″ pieces together.

Once you have cemented one you cannot cement another. There should be one side that has an exposed PVC connecting piece. This side should be facing forward, and you should slide a side outlet T-connector onto the end (make sure it is oriented correctly).

This T-connector with side exit piece must connect the bottom and the top layer, using a 4 1/2 inch piece. now for the top of the T-connector with side exit, connect a common T-connector to the top with a 2″ piece and then on the top connect a rear facing 90° piece with a 5 1/2 piece.

This will constitute the arm. finish the rest of the arm with the 16-inch piece, which should line up with one of the T-connectors on the back of the chair. Now for the last base piece, add a 90° connector to the T connector on the front, and connect it to the 4-way piece on the bottom using the last of the PVC, 8″ pieces. The 90° must be connected to the T connector with a 2″ piece.

Step 8: Wheels

This part is easy. First drill a hole in the cap no matter how large the protrusion sticking out of your wheel. then slide the bolt into the cover and secure it with a bolt on the other side. mine was 3/8 inch in diameter, so it was quite convenient.

The last step is to slide the cap onto the end of a 9″ piece of PVC and slide it to the bottom of the 4-way connector.

The front holes of the chair on the 4-way connector can be used to make footrests if desired. Thanks for reading!

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