Felicity Cloake, Guardian food writer, shares her detailed process behind the popular 'How to Cook the Perfect…' column, including recipe testing, failures, and insider tips. In this Q&A, she answers reader questions about how long it takes to perfect a dish, who tests the recipes, and what happens when a recipe just doesn't work.
The Process Behind 'How to Cook the Perfect…'
Felicity explains that her process is a blend of research, shopping, cooking, testing, and writing. For a quick dish, she can complete the entire process in a couple of days. However, for complex recipes that require hours of cooking or hard-to-find ingredients, it can take most of a week. She notes that sourcing ingredients even in London can be challenging, especially when items aren't available online or in the needed quantities.
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Testing and Leftovers
Felicity recruits anyone she can find to test the recipes, though she values specialist knowledge when available. She admits that eating the same dish for days can get monotonous, but she hates waste, so she usually finishes everything. She also shared a link to a more detailed article about her process for those interested.
Recipe Failures and Challenges
Reader Mike345 asked about failures—whether she ever starts a topic and then abandons it. Felicity confirms that sometimes a dish doesn't work in the format, such as a café liégeois, which turned out to be just assembled ingredients rather than a core recipe. She also mentioned that ramen nearly broke her, with some recipes taking half a day and others requiring a multi-day process just for the stock.
Near-Disasters in the Kitchen
Felicity recounted a near grease fire incident while testing a recipe, highlighting the real dangers of cooking experimentation. Despite these challenges, she remains committed to delivering reliable, tested recipes to her readers.

Key Takeaways from Felicity Cloake's Q&A
- Process is iterative: Research, shop, cook, test, and write—each step is crucial.
- Time varies: Simple dishes take days; complex ones can take a week or more.
- Testing is collaborative: She recruits anyone available, but specialist input is valuable.
- Failures are part of the journey: Some dishes don't work in the column format, and that's okay.
- Safety first: Even experienced cooks can have kitchen accidents like grease fires.
Comparison: Quick vs. Complex Recipe Testing
| Aspect | Quick Recipes | Complex Recipes |
|---|---|---|
| Time to Complete | 1-2 days | Up to a week or more |
| Ingredient Sourcing | Easy, common items | Challenging, sometimes rare |
| Testing Difficulty | Simple, fewer variables | Multi-step, high risk of failure |
| Examples | Simple pasta dishes | Ramen, complex stocks |