Marks & Spencer selling crotchless underwear from Ann Summers has sparked online outrage, but this bold retail move is actually a calculated strategy to modernize its image and capture younger shoppers. The UK's biggest underwear retailer is expanding beyond its own-label basics to include third-party brands, and the inclusion of Ann Summers is a deliberate step to fill a gap in its offering.
Why M&S's Crotchless Underwear Move Makes Business Sense
M&S has long been a destination for underwear, but its reputation has sometimes been seen as conservative. By adding Ann Summers, a brand synonymous with sex and body confidence, M&S is signaling a shift. Catherine Shuttleworth, CEO of retail consultancy Savvy, explains: "They've started introducing brands to bring them into sectors that probably isn't their core. And this is another one. It's just a little bit more eye-catching."
The move is part of M&S's broader "brands at M&S" strategy, which has been in place for five years. The retailer now offers lingerie from Pour Moi and Calvin Klein alongside its own line. Adding Ann Summers is a natural extension, giving customers greater choice and appealing to a demographic that may have previously overlooked M&S for more daring styles.
Targeting the Under-30 Demographic
M&S has seen a significant surge in younger customers. In 2024, people under 30 accounted for a third of underwear sales—double the previous year. This growth is no accident; M&S has been innovating with period knickers, stoma-friendly designs, and now, more adventurous styles. Shuttleworth notes, "They are always innovating for every stage of your life. And I think this is a gap in their category. Ann Summers is a byword for sex, isn't it?"
This strategy is about staying relevant. By offering a wider range of styles, M&S ensures that it remains a top choice for all ages and preferences. The inclusion of Ann Summers is not just about selling more underwear; it's about breaking down outdated perceptions and embracing a more inclusive, modern retail approach.

Comparison: M&S Own-Label vs. Third-Party Brands
| Feature | M&S Own-Label | Ann Summers (via M&S) |
|---|---|---|
| Style Range | Classic, practical, period, stoma-friendly | Bold, sexy, crotchless, chemises |
| Price Point | Mid-range, value-focused | Mid-to-premium |
| Target Audience | Broad, all ages | Younger, fashion-forward |
| Brand Perception | Trusted, reliable | Provocative, exciting |
Key Takeaways from M&S's Retail Evolution
- Strategic brand partnerships help M&S expand into new market segments.
- Younger shoppers are driving underwear sales, and M&S is adapting to their tastes.
- Diversity in product range—from period knickers to crotchless styles—positions M&S as inclusive.
- Controversy can be a marketing tool, generating buzz and attracting attention.
- Retail innovation is essential for legacy brands to stay competitive.