Concrete Countertop with Integrated Sink and Fiber Optic! 2026

Concrete Countertop with Integrated Sink and Fiber Optic, different ideas on how to make fiber optics, usually gluing directly to the surface to show a bright spot. I wanted to diffuse the lights through the colored glass.

I found it very difficult to find step by step how to make an integral sink, so I decided to address it and provide a resource for others. I hope this helps. Let me know if anyone has any questions!

Step 1: Materials

Before doing any work, you must collect the materials. Here is a list of the materials I used:

• 3/4″ Melamine Sheet – 4′ x 8′
• (2) 80 lb. bags. concrete
• 100% silicone caulk (I used black)
• Adhesive
• Glass
• Laminated door or cardboard strips
• Hot glue
• Bondo
• Spray lacquer
• Various screws
• Microfiber clothing
• Cable
• For the lights I used a 75 strand fiber optic cable. 6W RGB LED with RF remote control.
• Fiber optic lighting cable
• LED illuminator

Here are the tools you need:

• Silicone gun
• Wet polisher with diamond pads
• Grinder or polisher
• Various palettes
• Concrete mixer or mixing bucket and shovel

I bought some green decorative glass from the dollar store. Since they were in pebbles and I didn't want the round shape, I decided to break them.

To make it, I placed them on a concrete block and covered them with tarp before smashing them with a hammer. This prevented the fragments from flying everywhere. Regardless of the canvas, be sure to wear safety glasses!

Step 2: Template

After gathering all the materials and tools, the first step is to create a template. First I took the cardboard and cut it into strips.

This is often done with the door laminate, but I had the cardboard on hand from the new dresser. To make the template, place the strips along the wall and measure the appropriate overhang of the vanity.

Use the hot glue gun to connect the pieces.

If the wall is really crooked, you will have to glue small pieces along a larger straight piece to accommodate the curve. Make sure all the cardboard or sheet metal is flush in the corners to give you a good corner.

I made two separate sink shapes out of cardboard to determine what looked best on the new vanity. I finally chose the smaller sink.

Step 3: Create the shape

Once the template has been made and the ta has been decidedsize and shape of the sink, it's time to make the shape. Place the template on the piece of melamine that you will use as a base.

This will end up being the top of the countertop as it will be formed upside down. Trace the template onto the melamine. Tear some strips of melamine so they are on the sides of the countertop. I decided to make the front and exposed side sag a little.

Because of this choice, I ripped the strips for the front side and right side 3/4″ higher. I place those strips along the lines I drew and pre-drilled and screwed along the bottom. I then used the black silicone to seal the inside edges and give the top a small radius.

It was then time to make the shape for the sink. I chose to go with the ramp sink style sink as I wanted to build it all out of melamine. This shape eliminated the need to form fabrics or make a fiberglass mold.

I built a trapezoidal box the size of my cardboard template.

I cut the piece that would become the bottom of the sink into three pieces so I could angle the bottom toward the drain. I put a small shim between the back wall and the bottom of the mold to help with that slope.

I ended up going with a 1/4″ per foot slope on the sink. Fill the voids created by the screws and from the slope of the sink using Bondo.

Once the Bondo is sanded, cover it with a coat of sealer. the spray lacquer I had on hand. Silicone that formed the base of the melamine to seal it in place as it did with the previous inside corners.

Design the necessary holes for the tap and glue in a plastic tube.

For drainage, create a foam that cuts out the diameter you need for the drain hole.

Place a washer that is the diameter and thickness of the drain lip on the part of the mold that will become the bottom of the sink.

This allows the cutting to sink into the water and drain freely. Glue and apply silicone to the washer and then glue the foam on top. Next, build the part of the mold that will come out of the outside of the sink. Measure to offset 1-1/2″ from the inside shape you have already built.

You want to make sure it is offset from the hypotenuse, the back wall, the sides, and the part that will be the bottom of the sink.

I only need to build the hypotenuse, sides and back for this part of the shape.

I also built wings on the sides so I can screw them on to maintain the proper thickness of the sink and countertop.

The last part of the form was cutting 3/4″ strips with blocks to screw them to the form to create the offset edge. Most of the cover I made was 1-1/2″ and the edges you see were 2 -1/4″.

Step 4: Add reinforcement, glass and fibers

Fold the mesh around the sink to provide reinforcement there as well. Place the screws around the outside of the form and attach the wires to the mesh to keep it at least 3/4″ from the surface that will be the top of the counter.

After placing the reinforcement, it is time to place the decorative glass. Apply the spray adhesive to all interior surfaces of the form. Arrange the glass of both colors in a pattern and placement that you prefer.

Use the hot glue to attach the end of the fibers to the glass pieces. I chose to bond the fibers to the glass to help diffuse the light rather than have the fibers exposed on the surface. Run all the fibers in one spot so you can put them all in one highlighter.

Glue the fibers along the mesh to help ensure that the fibers do not move when the concrete is poured.

Step 5: Mix and pour the concrete

Mix concrete according to instructions. I used the liquid color to achieve the shade I wanted. I made sure to do a lot of testing to find the right ratio of water, color and concrete. Write this information down so you can duplicate it across all batches and then into the mix.

For larger batches you will need to mix using a concrete mixer. Since I only needed two bags, I mixed the concrete in a mixing tub with a shovel.

Carefully place the concrete around any fibers you have glued to the glass pieces. I put the concrete with a small trowel.

I enlisted the help of some friends to make sure the concrete is stacked around the glass and fibers, being careful not to loosen them.

Vibrate the concrete periodically with a paperless orbital sander to reduce air bubbles and increase flow.

Once you have packed enough concrete on the top of the sink, you can place the external form of the sink. Pack that full of concrete and vibrate everywhere. Fix all excess concrete from the flats and sink portions of the form using a board.

Once everything is clean, be sure to cover the poured concrete with plastic to retain moisture for drying.

Step 6: Remove the form

As the counter is thin, we want to wait for it to be more completely dry before removing the form. According to the manufacturer's instructions, you should wait about 7 days for the concrete to reach its advertised strength.

I did not put any mold release on the inner sink shape. That's why I had to chisel the internal shape to be able to remove it.

I used the diamond turbo cup to further expose the glass I placed. I also like the added look to the bathroom we were putting it in. This will also expose more holes and vents in the surface.

Since I don't have a polisher with a water supply, a friend sprayed the surface with the hose as I went. The sander I used was on loan and I would love to win the concrete and casting contest to make more countertops throughout the house in the future.

I folded the edge from top to bottom on the sink to give a nice smooth transition.

Step 7: Holes and polishing

Using the color ratio you noted above, you can mix a fill using non-aggregate concrete or simply cement with acrylic.

Rub this over the surface and make sure you are wearing gloves. Once it dries in a house, you can start polishing the surface. I started with 50 grains and worked up to 400 grains.

Most sealers tell you to stop at 200 grits, but the one I was using recommended between 400 and 800. Make sure to check the sealant you are using before sanding everything off the surface so the sealant will adhere!

Be sure to wear all your safety gear, like earplugs, glasses, and gloves, while you polish it like it's not that bad in these pictures. I assure you I started right after they were taken!

Step 8: Apply Sealant and Install

I used TK6 Nanocoat sealer for my project. You can apply this sealant by wiping, rolling, or spraying. I chose to wipe off the sealant with a microfiber cloth. For the first two coats, be sure to dilute the sealer by 10-30% with water.

Then apply at least a few undiluted coats. Be sure to clean it quickly and circulate air with a fan immediately after application. With a clean wipe, you only have to wait about half an hour between coats. I ended up making about 5 undiluted coats.

Once again, I recruited my friend to help me carry the countertop into place. Place it on the dresser and dab silicone to adhere the top in place. The added weight keeps it in place, but the silicone helps ensure placement.

Also seal the walls with clear silicone to seal the top from water running down the walls.

Attach the illuminator to the back wall of the vanity and plug the cord into a power outlet. I added an outlet inside the vanity before installing knowing I would be plugging in lights. Feed all the fibers into the illuminator and you are ready to use your lights!

Step 9: Enjoy!

Enjoy your new countertop with integrated sink and fiber optic lights! Because the remote is RF, it works even outside the room and can turn the lights on in different modes, from flashing to individual colors to fading between colors. Because of the glass, the lights are not super bright during the day, but they are a pretty radical night light.

Greetings!

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