Dining Table and Game Table in One Project! 2026

Dining Table and Game Table in One Project, was made entirely with wood glue, even after countless gaming sessions for more than a year. You can consider using nails or screws to save drying time and avoid the stress of worrying if the glue sticks well enough.

Materials:

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• Pipe clamps (2-4) and a set of regular clamps
• 4 Corner Clamps
• Sandpaper (120 – 300)
• Wood conditioner
• Wood finish
• Polyurethane
• 3/4″ Plywood, 45 ¾” x 45 ¾” (Playing Surface A)
• 1″x4″ (¾” x 3 ½”) (2) 45 ¾” (Side walls C)
• 1″x4″ (¾” x 3 ½”) (2) 47 ¼” (Side walls B)
• Molding (4) 45 ¾» (D) 15″ Round Pine Boards (E and F)
• Adhesive tape
• Wood glue
• Velvet or similar high-quality fabric
• Small sticky rubber feet (for the table to rest on)
• Stainless cup holders and hole saws
• 2 Pine Boards – ½” x 6″ (5 ½”)

Step 1: Measurement

Measure the dimensions of the table. In my case, it was 47 1/2″ x 47 1/2″. Next, determine the dimensions of the material for the playing surface and walls. My table had a beveled edge, so I made the walls 1/4″ shorter than the table. I'm not an expert at woodworking, so I used a simple butt joint for the walls. This would give me 47 1/4″ for the longer walls (Label B) and 45 3/4″ for the shorter walls (Label C) since the boards I am using are (3/4″ actual width). Finally, the table top would fit inside the walls, so the dimensions of the shortest wall would be 45 3/4″ x 45 3/4″ (Label A).

Step 2: Fix the walls

Start by gluing the two shorter walls to the playing surface (A and C). Ideally I would have used 4 clamps, but I only had 2, so I used some regular clamps and a nylon hose to create tension. Once dry, glue the longer walls to the playing surface and the shorter walls (A, B and C). A corner clamp can be very helpful in ensuring they meet cleanly.

Step 3: Cut the round pine coasters

While the glue is drying, you can cut the 15″ pine round to use as a coaster. Personally, I cut the holes in the cup before cutting the round into 1/4. I made 2 of them, larger cup holders for larger mugs or glasses. Then 2 of them are smaller, double cup holders for cans and bottles. See template for cutting guide.

Step 4: Finish Edges and Sand

Once all the walls are attached to the playing surface, you'll want to sand the corners a bit and smooth out the joints. Then do some general sanding on the walls just to make sure everything is ready for finishing.

Step 5: Cut the mold

Cut the molding (for me 45 3/4″) at a miter joint (although it doesn't have to be perfect because it's under the cup holder).

Step 6: Finishing

I personally used wood conditioner, but that is not required. So condition and then stain all surfaces that will not have glue. This means the back of the cup holder and trim pieces must be unstained. And also, you'll need to use tape to mask off where you put the cup holders and trim on the interior walls. For me, I placed the cup holders about 1/4″ from the top of the wall so that the stainless steel cup holders would have enough clearance from the table surface.

Step 7: Seal

Polyurethane all stained portions with a couple of coats, being careful not to polyurethane the surfaces you plan to glue. Also make sure you don't miss any areas that need finishing because once you use polyurethane, it's hard to go back.

Step 8: Glue

Adhere the fabric to the surface of the table. The beauty of mold is that it doesn't have to be perfect. You should have about an inch to play with the edges. But you simply need to follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Step 9: Attach the molding

I personally glued it down like the rest of the table, but in retrospect, this may have been a smart place to use brads in case I want to replace the fabric in the future.

Step 10: Attach the cup holders

Glue and clamp. Once dry, the stainless steel brackets should slide in and be easily removed for cleaning or to reach the corner.

Step 11: Attach the board to the original base

Basically I just attached this exactly the same way the original table was attached, which had only 8 screws, but each table would be different so you'd have to use logic there. Additionally, this will increase the height of your table by about 3.5 inches, so you may need to shave a few inches off the base/legs to prevent your eating surface from becoming uncomfortably high. Again, this is case by case and just something to consider.

Step 12: Adjust the original table to the game table

Finally, cut/install the walls at the bottom of the table (Labeled H in the diagram in Step 1). My table already had small walls on the bottom, but if yours doesn't, you'll need to add them to make sure the table doesn't move once it's seated. In my example, the walls would have to be about 30″ long (surface width 45 3/4″, minus the round pine 15″). The distance from one outside edge to the other should be a fraction shorter than the width of the playing surface. In my case, somewhere around 45 1/2″ or just below. Consider that interior walls should be approximately 2 -2 1/2″ high to avoid leaning on trim. I also added a strip of adhesive felt to the bottom of the table walls so it doesn't cause scratches.

Step 13: (Optional) Additional Play Areas

In my case, I knew that some games would require a little more space, so I made 4 additional play areas. These additions were built using 1/2 x 5 1/2 pine boards. An important detail to keep in mind is that it is a good idea to leave a little more room in the pocket to fit the edge of the table. This way you can add some adhesive felt to allow them to slide easily without scratching the walls of the table. These also fit perfectly on the table for storage when the table is in place.

Step 14: Let's play!

Here is your table in use. Of course this table would also work great for simple card games or monopoly.

Similar Ideas:

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