Drill Table and Press 2026

Table and Press for the Drill, this is a table and press for the drill, which will be very useful in your workshop. When I think about woodworking jigs, my mind usually goes straight to the jigs used for the table saw. But what about the drill? The drill has a lot to offer, but always seems neglected in my shop due to a complicated and long setup. That all changed when I made a drill press table.

Reference video:

Click to go to the Video.

A drill press table makes the drill press much easier to use. Faster setup, consistent hole repetition, higher security, better stability and better accuracy. There are plenty of DIY table designs out there, so what's different about mine? I'm glad you asked. When designing this drill table, I had 3 things in mind:

• Minimum investment in equipment ($)
• Easy to assemble/disassemble in seconds

Step 1: Materials

For this project I used Baltic birch, which provides a smooth, flat surface. You will only need part of a 24x48 panel, no need to purchase a full sheet.

Materials used:

• Toilet bolts
• Star knob
• Toggle pliers
• Tweezers
• 3/4 birch plywood
• 1/4 birch plywood
• Screws #8 1-1/4 Pan Head and #12 3/4 Pan Head

Tools used:

• Drill press
• Table saw
• Router
• Miter saw
• Drill bits
• Wood glue
• Paste brush
• 3/8 drill bit for the drill
• Clamps

Step 2: Cut List

Start by cutting your plywood pieces according to the cut list below. I used a combination of my circular saw to cut the large panel, then moved on to my miter saw and table saw for the smaller cuts. The dimensions of the drill table are 12″ x 24″ with a fence 2 inches high.

3/4 Baltic Birch Plywood:

• (1) 12 x 24 – Table Base
• (2) 12 x 3 5/8 – top end pieces
• (2) 12 x 4 – Upper Middle Pieces
• (1) 12 x 7 ½ – top center piece
• (2) 2 x 24 – Fence
• (4) 2 x 2 – Stop Blocks.
• (2) 2 x 8 – Toggle Under Bracket
• 1/4 Baltic birch plywood
• (1) 2 x 24 – Fence

Step 3: Make the table top

You can buy T-guides and T-slot screws, but I wanted to make this drill press table as inexpensive as possible, with readily available materials. So instead, I chose to make my own T-Tracks. Here's how.

• Using a Router Board (or Handheld Router) and a straight bit, cut a bead on each of the edges highlighted in the diagram above. The curls should be 1/4″ wide and about 1/8″ deep.
• Once the curls are cut, you can now cut the 7 1/2 center piece to have a removable sacrificial insert. Cut one piece to 2 5/8 starting from one side, then repeat the cut on the other side. You will be left with a 2″ insert (without any bunnies).
• Before you remove the glue, you will need some 3/8″ spacers. The spacers will create the T-tracks and allow the toilet bolts to slide freely between the boards. I made my own spacers by cutting a 3/8 strip on the table saw, then cutting it into small 2” pieces with my crosscut sled.
• Apply glue to the back of the top pieces, being careful not to squeeze them into the strips. Add spacers and continuemoving from left to right according to the layout in the diagram above. Remember not to add glue to the 2" piece in the middle! This is the removable insert. Add a little weight across the entire surface and let the glue dry.

Step 4: Make the fence

• Glue and clamp the two 2x24 pieces.
• Once dry, make a die in the center approximately 3/4 wide and 1/8 deep.
• Glue the 1/4 plywood on top, being careful not to glue the die. Hold and let dry.
• Use the table saw to cut a shallow slot (the blade is tall enough to cut through 1/4 plywood). The slot should be about 3/8″ wide, wide enough to allow a toilet bolt to slide smoothly in the track.
• Place the assembled guide on the drill table and mark where the table's external T-guides meet the guide. Drill a hole in the center of the fence using a 3/8 bit.

Step 5: Assembling the drill table

• I wanted a quick and easy way to quickly set up the drill table or take it off when I don't need it. Many manufacturers use bolts to mount the table to the drill press, but that seemed too impractical for quick removal. Instead, I decided to use lever pliers.
• I centered the table on the drill press, then simply marked the bottom of each side of the table. I screwed a piece of plywood onto each side, then mounted the toggle clamps to these boards. Now the table can be assembled and removed in seconds with a simple movement of the hand.

Blocks and hold clamps

• With the leftover plywood, you can cut out some extra 2x12 inserts to have on hand once yours has worn out. You'll also want to cut some 2x2 stop blocks and drill a hole in the center with a 3/8 bit. You can mount them on the fence as a stop block to make repeated cuts in the exact same place, or mount them on the table's T-guides to help keep your workpiece in place.
• Something I forgot that would be really helpful here is holding the clamps. They are basically T-slot clamps that do just that: hold down the workpiece. These can be especially useful when drilling small pieces where you can't put a hand to hold them against the table and prevent them from lifting off the table when you lift the bit.

Last step: Final thoughts

Be sure to check out the video tutorial if you haven't already. Greetings!

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