Wooden Tiered Planter! 2026

Wooden Tiered Planter, I wanted to grow some plants, and had left it too late in the spring to build the raised beds I wanted.

Secondly, I like the idea of growing plants in elevated areas to utilize vertical space and make existing buildings blend into the natural environment.

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Third, and most importantly, I was ready to start another carpentry project.

Among other articles, I found this example of a DIY planter, which has been used to support deep trays, not for small plots.

This example is excellent, but I wanted to do a full A-frame construction and give it a lot of lateral rigidity.

As much as possible, I also wanted to avoid killing the grass under the seeder and reaching it with the mower.

I managed to find some reasonably priced planting trays 600mm long, 300mm wide and 240mm deep.

I designed the structure around 3 columns and 3 rows of these.

Dimensions:

• 1.8 m long
• 1.2 m high
• 0.6 m deep

Basic materials:

• Step Supports: Planed Pine 215mm x 20mm x 1.4m (or 1′ by 9′ by 4.6ft) x 3 lengths
• Step Platforms: Brushed Pine 215mmx20mmx1.8m (or 1′ by 9′ by 5.9ft) x 3 lengths
• Box Vertical: 38mm x 38mm x 1.2m (or 2′ by 2′ by 3.9ft) x 3 lengths of treated pine
• Frame back angle piece: at least 19 mm x 19 mm (or 1′ by 1′) in cross section and at least 2.16 m long x 1 m long
• Horizontal frame: 38mm x 38mm x 1.8m (or 2′ by 2′ by 5.9ft) x 4 lengths of treated pine
• Frame legs: 38mm x 38mm x 0.6m (or 2′ by 2′ by 2ft) x 3 lengths of treated pine
• Leg blocks: 19mm x 19mm (or 1′ by 1′) treated pine approximately 215mm long x 3.
• Right angle brackets x 6
• Long trainer screws at least 76mm long x 4
• Exterior wood paint or sealer
• Screws and nails.

#1: Make the supports

• Take the 3-step support sections, which have been cut to 140mm long. These should be marked according to the dimensions of the pots you intend to store on the shelves. The depth of the seeder is 600 mm. The height of each of my shelf sections is 450 mm.
• If you look at the final construction, the shelf platforms extend forward of these step supports. It is very important not to remove too much material from these supports as they are load bearing. It is better to extend the shelves outward rather than cutting too much into these beams. From the marking on the pictures, you'll see that I cut about half of these beams, but not much more.
• Once I was happy with my design, I trimmed the waste from the marked section. I then used this as a template to mark the other two. These are also cut with a saw before cutting.

#2: Do your back

This part of the instruction will be much easier if you have a flat surface to work on.

• Take one of the horizontal frames and the three vertical frame supports. These will be assembled to re-form the frame as shown in the first image. To make the woods lock together, mark and cut them to fit the discount shape shown in the pictures.
• After cutting the wood, I applied a coat of wood sealer to the inside of the joints and let it dry overnight.
• Take the new frame angle piece. Place it diagonally along the back of the frame.
• Can be trimmed to exact length later.
• Now make sure the top and bottom of the frame measure exactly 1.8m (i.e. the frame is square). Now screw the angle piece directly into the back of the frame.or to avoid any deviation.
• Screws can now be inserted into the recessed joints.
• I used some of the offcuts to cut the step supports to further secure the center of the frame and prevent skew.

#3: Make the legs

• Take the 2′ by 2′ foot sections and place the 1′ by 1′ blocks on one end. The blocks should be flush with one side of the foot joists.
• The space left is where the hypotenuse sections of the frame in A will be located.
• Drill pilot holes before nailing with 3 long screws in each. Screws would also do the job just fine.

#4: Fixing the frame

Legs to Vertical Frame: 

Drill holes through the uprights and feet.

The wooden blocks we nailed to the feet in the previous step should be on opposite sides of the feet from the sides where we are drilling the holes, and the blocks should be facing the sky.

See the second image of this step which has some additional notes.

Now go through the trainer bolts and slide the nuts on. You will need to do this for each of the 3 pairs of upright and leg frame elements.

Completing Framework A: 

It is important to verify that you are forming right angles between the feet and the vertical sections before tightening the trainer bolts.

I used a flat surface and an outside wall as a guide before tightening.

I strongly recommend that you put the stair support boards in place and check that you have made a 90 degree angle before screwing the A-frame together.

Now tighten the screws on the legs.

Horizontal supports:

This frame is designed to carry a heavy soil load.

2′ by 2′ horizontal supports should ensure that the load is distributed throughout the structure and will help prevent lateral movement.

Attach the brackets to the bottom of each horizontal bracket, as shown.

Back supports:

I used some lightweight wood to keep the pots from sliding back.

You can see the bottom supports in the image.

The lumber used here was approximately 1′ by 1/4′ in cross section and 1.8 m long.

3 pieces were used.

#5: Attach the platforms

• Screw the platforms to the horizontal supports with 50mm screws. I also bolted the rear supports onto each deck to prevent twisting.

#6: Seal it

This planter will live outdoors without a roof, so it will be very vulnerable to the elements.

By sealing wood we can help keep water out of the wood and extend the life of our structure.

I suggest applying at least two coats of sealer with a small brush to cover all surfaces.

It may take some time to do it correctly and you will have to tilt the structure towards its front to reach the bottom.

#7: Ready!

It is very strong and can withstand a large load.

Mine has survived a few storms and seems to easily support its entire set of trays.

Get more information at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more Wooden Step Planter.

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