How to Build a Picnic Table with a Cooler 2026

How to build a picnic table with a cooler, the type of wood you choose is up to you, but we have used pressure-treated wood for the legs, and common dryyard wood for the rest of the table. You will need to apply a finish when you are done with the project, which will make it more beautiful and durable.

Tools:

• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Jigsaw
• Hacksaw
• Pipe clamps
• Sander
• Square
• Quick-Grips®
• Adjustable wrench, or ¾
• Circular or miter saw
• Drill with ¾ wood bit

Materials:

• (2) 8-foot 2x6s of pressure-treated lumber
• (5) 12-foot 2x6s #2 or larger
• (2) 10-foot 2x6s #2 or larger
• (1) 8-foot 2x4 #2 or larger
• (1) 1x10 4-foot common pine
• (1) 1 ½ inch x 4 foot angle iron,
  with slots
• (16) 3/8×3 ½ bolts, nuts and screws
• (1) box of 2 ½ deck screws
• (1) box of 1 ¼ deck screws
• (1) tube of construction adhesive
• (1) ¾ x ½ inch 90 degree plastic elbow
• (1) tube of exterior sealant
• (1) quart of urethane varnish or similar finish
• (1) ½ inch diameter plastic tube

Step #1

Cut all the wood to size in advance. If you don't have the correct saw, ask a Home Depot Associate to make the cuts for you. Leave the angled struts that will go from the leg to the table for last, so you can adjust them to the vertical level of the legs.

Follow the cutting diagram: 4 legs at 65 degrees with a length of 32 inches. Then cut the five 12-foot timbers in half. Of the 10 resulting woods, save eight for the top and seats.

Cut one of the remaining 6-foot pieces of wood in half for the sides of the cooler (shown in blue in the diagram).

Cut the remaining 6-foot lumber as shown in the diagram for the center of the top board: (2) 14 ½" for the ends and the removable cap at 42 inches. In this, drill a ¾" hole about five inches from one side.

From each of the 10-foot 2x6s we will take: (1) 27-inch top support (in red), (1) 27-inch strut (in green), and (1) 58-inch seat support (in red).

You will need two sets of these. From the 8-foot 2x4, cut two 9-inch struts for the seats, leaving the rest for later when you will cut the two angled table-to-leg struts.

Cut the 4-foot 1x10s to 3 feet to form the bottom of the cooler. Divide the remaining 12-inch piece into two 6x10s for the ends.

Using the hacksaw, cut the angle iron in half so you are left with two 2-foot pieces.

Step #2: Assemble the top board

Lay the wood face down on the ground, with the cooler lid removed, leaving a 3/8-inch space between them, and attach the clamps.

Measure and mark 17 ½ inches from each one. They will serve as marks for the inside of the struts.

Place the top struts in place, and mark the lines on the ends and sides with a pencil. Apply construction adhesive inside the lines, avoiding the sides.

Replace the struts and nail them in with two 2 ½” deck screws for each top board.

Note that the center boards don't go all the way to the other side, so the glue and screws will be closer to the end.

Step #3: Create the Ice Box

Using the 1 ¼ screws, glue and secure the bottom of the cooler to the sides and the two 6x10 end pieces, aligning them with the sides and bottom of the box.

Punch a ¾-inch hole in the bottom, and insert the plastic elbow. Seal all interior edges with sealant.

Step #4: Secure the Cooler

Screw the two 2-inch angle irons to the sides of the cooler (shown in blue in the diagram) with the 1 ¼ deck screws.

Put a little glue on the top of the sides and screw the iron to the bottom of the board, centering the opening of the cooler with the hole in the board.

Put a weight on it so the glue seals better.

Step #5: Build the leg struts

Now, mark, apply construction adhesive, and place the top leg supports about 8 inches from the end of the table.

Drive two 2 ½-inch screws at an angle into the ends of the bracket, and turn the table over.

Now screw the support to the top boards, using two screws per board. This will help make it firmer.

Step #6: Assembling the legs

The time has come to assemble the legs. Flip the table over again, and grab each leg to the top support so they line up with the second and fourth planks on top.

Drill two 3/8-inch holes in the legs through the brackets as shown in the diagram. Remove the clamps, apply glue where the legs meet the supports, and secure them again with the nuts.

Measure 10 inches from the bottom of the legs, and draw some parallel lines on them. This will mark where the bottom of the lower leg supports will go.

Carefully center and secure each bracket to the legs and drill two 3/8 holes in the legs through the brackets as shown.

Remove the clamps, apply the glue, and secure them again with the nuts.

Step #7: Place the seats

To attach the seats, center the outside seat boards to the supports, leaving the seat overhang one inch. Mark, glue, and screw these boards using a pair of 2 ½ screws on each side.

Next, place the inner seat board, leaving the same 3/8 space between them. Turn the table over and install the seat supports with glue and screws.

Do not let these screws protrude through the seat.

Step #8: Secure the seats

Measure and cut the table struts to the legs. They should be cut at 45 degrees, and attached to the center of the leg support, and also to the bottom of the cooler with 1 ¼ screws. At each corner of the seats, measure 2 ¾ inches and make a mark.

Using a square, draw a 45-degree diagonal line on each of the eight outside corners of each seat. With the saw, cut the corners.

Step #9: Sand and finish

Finally, sand all the edges of the table, and apply the finish of your choice to make it weather resistant. Next, place the ½-inch plastic tube in the elbow under the cooler, and let it run to a bucket, or along the leg to the grass.

If you want to block the ends of the cooler to add drainage, you can also consider using it as a planter. Just fill it with soil and plant!

See the plans at the following link: Project plans

Step-by-step video of the project:

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