Today we will teach you how to build a traditional toolbox, perfect for organizing all your tools.
There may be no better way to use small tools than with a traditional toolbox.
This one offers a unique design twist, with a handle that sits at an angle.
It's a simple idea, but you'll be surprised how much easier it is to get things in and out, and how much more convenient it is to carry.
Learn how to build a traditional toolbox

MATERIALS AND CUTS:
- (1) Bottom, 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 20" pine
- (1) Bottom, 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 20" pine
- (2) End, 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 10 1/2" pine
- (2) Side, 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 21 1/2" pine
- (1) Handle, pine 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 20 5/16" (end)
- Wood products:Wood products:
- (1) 1×6, 96", Board
- (1) 1×3, 24", Board Hardware/Supplies:
- (22) Kreg 1 1/4" Coarse Thread Hole Screws Online Store
- (1) wood glue
Procedure:

Step 1 instructions:
Start by cutting the bottom to the size of a 1x6 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. Set up your Kreg Jig® for 3/4" thick material and then drill holes in the locations shown. Sand the faces lightly, but don't worry about sanding the edges or ends.

Step 2 instructions:
Cut two ends to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Now you can trace the curve on each one. You can use a compass, or you can mark the straight line from the top edge, and then place a regular quart can in its place and trace around it. Once you have established the shape on each end, cut the curve on each using a jigsaw. Cut just outside the line on the "waste" side, and then sand right up to the line to create a smooth, uniform shape. Sand the smooth faces and the other edges as well.

Step 3 instructions:
Cut two sides to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Sand the faces, edges and ends smooth. If you plan to paint the toolbox, like we did, consider painting the bottom, ends, and sides now. This may be easier than painting after assembling the toolbox. It also allows you to apply the paint with a foam roller, as shown in the instruction video below, to create a smooth paint finish. Once the paint is dry, or before continuing if you are not applying paint, mark the locations of the four pilot holes on each side, as shown. However, do not drill holes.

Step 4 instructions:
Place the bottom and ends on the edge on a flat work surface so that they are oriented as shown, with the tops of the ends offset. Clamp these pieces together and then attach the bottom to the ends using 1 1/4" coarse thread Kreg screws.

Step 5 instructions:
You can now attach the sides to the bottom/end assembly. Make sure the sides are aligned correctly with the ends and then clamp them in place. Next, attach the bottom to the sides using 1 1/4" coarse thread Kreg screws. Now drill 1/16" pilot holes to a depth of 1" at each location marked on the sides. Drive 1 1/4” coarse thread screw into these holes. Use a low clutch setting to prevent overrunning the screws.

Step 6 instructions:
Cut a handle to an approximate length from a 1x3 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. To get the proper angle and length, place the handle on top of the ends as shown. Using a pencil, mark the length and angle on the bottom of the handle where it meets the top of each end. Cut the final length and angle on the miter saw. In our case, the angle was approximately 10 °.

Step 7 instructions:
First, drill the pocket holes in the handle. There are two on each face: on the "shorter" side of the beveled end. Next, extend the curve of the handle, cut it with a saw, and then sand the curve until it is smooth. Lastly, smooth out the sharp edges of the handle by doing some sanding on the top edges and the edges of the curved area, as shown. After that, you can paint the handle or apply a couple of coats of clear finish, like we did.

Step 8 instructions:
To attach the handle, first position it so that it is centered and flush with the top of each end. You may need to hold the Handle in place while securing it with the 1 1/4" Coarse Thread Kreg Screws.






Remember that you can build a toolbox with different measurements that adapt to your needs.
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