Making a rustic-style ceiling chandelier can be a DIY job that you can do to impress your visitors.
It has a rectangular wooden base with 6 lights and 4 iron chains covered by a rope and iron hooks to hang it.
Video:
Click to see the Video.
Materials to make a ceiling chandelier:
- Wooden strip 6 cm wide, 3 cm thick
- 15cm long wooden board; 10cm wide, 2cm thick
- 9cm long wooden board; 6cm wide, 3cm thick
- String
- Hemp rope
- Vintage filament LED bulbs
- Bulb sockets
- Canopy Kit
- Black spray paint
- Wood glue
- Electrical tape
- Hitches
- Wood filling
- Hot glue sticks
Tools I used:
- Cordless drill
- Random orbit sander
- Dremel tool
- Welder
- Miter saw
- Glue gun
- Rule
- F-clamps
- 90 Degree Angle Clamps
- Template to make pins
- Forstner Drill Bits
- Wire stripper
Steps on how to make a rustic style ceiling chandelier
Step 1: Measuring and cutting the wood




For this project I am using a 3 by 6 cm strip of wood. The dimensions of the wooden frame are 55 x 35 cm, so I have measured and marked two pieces that are 55 cm long and another two pieces that are 35 cm long.
I cut the wood pieces at a 45 degree angle with a hand saw and miter box. The strip of wood was quite thick and it took me some time until I finished all the cuts.
In addition, I needed to cut two other pieces of wood of different sizes that will be used as a support for the chandelier. So, I have cut a piece of 9 x 6 cm, 3 cm thick, and another piece of 15 x 10 cm, 2 cm thick.
Step 2: Join the wooden pieces







To hold this whole frame together, I'm going to use dowels. I have marked the connection points on each corner, so that the dowels go through both pieces of wood.
Then drill holes with a drill, jig, and some clamps for more precision.
I have put one peg per corner, because the chandelier weighs about 3 kg (which is less than 7 pounds). I applied wood glue and joined the pieces together.
Then I clamped the frame with some corner clamps and F-clamps and let it dry.
Step 3: Apply a wood filler

I applied a wood filler to fill in all the imperfections.
Step 4: Sand the wooden frame

Once I'm done cutting and gluing, I can now move on to sanding.
First, I'm just going to sand it with 80 grit sandpaper, then I come back with 120 and then 220 to smooth out the surface of the wood.
Step 5: Drilling Holes for Bulb Sockets


The next step is to mark the center points for the location of the bulb sockets because I would like them to line up. There are a total of 6 power outlets.
UI used a 35mm front drill bit to countersink holes in the middle of the wood, about 15mm, which is enough to fit the baseboards.
In the center of these holes I made additional holes with a 6 mm drill bit along the entire length of the wood for the cable to pass through.
Step 6: Paint the wooden pieces


Now it's time to paint. I'm going to use black spray paint to make the chandelier look similar to the one I saw at the lighting store.
I applied 2 coats of spray paint and let it dry.
Step 7: Cut and paint the chain


Next, I used the Dremel tool to cut 4 equal lengths of chain. I cut these to 40cm in length. Additionally, I cut a small piece, 10 cm long.
The chain and hooks were silver, but I wanted black ones, so I painted them with a black spray paint. I actually liked how they turned out.
Step 8: Wrap the chain with hemp rope

The last thing I need to do with the chain is wrap it with a hemp rope. I wrapped one of the chains with a wire that will actually connect the wire from the outlets and the wire coming from the ceiling.
I thought it would be much thicker because of the three remaining chains, but in the end I could barely see the difference between them.
Step 9: Secure the bulb sockets in the holes


Now, let's go back to installing the lights. I used a hot glue gun to secure the socket covers into the pre-drilled holes.
As you can see, the caps are round, so I had to apply a lot of hot glue to make them stick better to the wood.
Step 10: Wiring lights in parallel






Next, I cut six pieces of the cable, about 5 cm long, and removed the cover with a sharp cutter.
I used my wire strippers to remove the insulation from the ends of the cables. I will need half a centimeter of the copper wires to show from one side and at least a centimeter from the other side.
Next, I will join the wires inside the socket. I'll tighten the screws with a screwdriver to hold them in place, and then use electrical tape to wrap the wires around. I will repeat these steps with all the remaining cables.
Next I will insert the wires into the drilled holes and screw the housings together to complete all the plugs.
I have measured and cut 5 pieces of the cable. The sixth will be the cable wrapped with the rope. Its length depends on the distance between the shots.
Therefore, I have removed 2 cm of the outer jacket and 1 cm of the insulation from the cable. As you can see, I joined three wires of the same color with my thumb and index finger.
Instead of using connectors, I decided to permanently connect them with a soldering iron and solder. Then, I wrapped them with electrical tape.
Step 11: Wrap the wire with electrical tape and secure with staples


In fact, I realized that I can wrap the entire wire with electrical tapee, to match the color of the wooden frame.
To keep everything in place, I'm securing the wire with staples and a mallet so it doesn't pop out and show. I put two staples in each place, because I wanted to secure them well.
Step 12: Place the hooks



I drilled four holes in the corners of the frame and placed the hooks in place.
Also, I drilled five holes in the small piece of wood and attached the hooks carefully, because it was very tight.
Step 13: Make a junction box

After drilling holes in the last piece of wood, I realized I needed to add a wooden frame to it and turn it into a junction box area for the wire connectors, cable, and mounting bracket. These holes are made for the screws that will hold it firmly to the ceiling, and the middle ones are for the hook and the cable.
Then I put the hook in the middle of the junction box.
Step 14: Putting all the parts together


Finally, I can put all the parts of the lamp together and see if everything is okay. I placed the chains on the hooks and pulled the cable through the junction box.
The total length of the chandelier is 55 cm, but you can adjust the dimensions according to your tastes and needs.
Step 15: Mounting the lighting on the ceiling







Now it's time to mount the chandelier to the ceiling.
Everything must be done carefully. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, ask a friend for help or hire a professional. I asked my boyfriend to help me, because I didn't want to make a mistake that could ruin all the work I've put into this project.
Remember, the first thing you should do is go to the electrical panel and turn off the circuit breaker before installing the light. Use a circuit tester to make sure the power is off before touching any of the electrical wires.
Attach the mounting bracket to the ceiling using the provided screws and a screwdriver. Make sure the stand is securely attached and level.
Three wires are seen: two for power and the third wire is used as electrical ground. In my accessory, I also have two cables for power with the same color.
Therefore, I need to connect the cables with connectors. I want to make sure the blue wire is connected to the blue wire and the brown wire is connected to the brown wire. Then, once that's done, I slide the junction box into place and tighten the other screws under the box.
The last thing I have to do is screw in the bulbs. I have chosen to install Vintage LED filament bulbs to fit its rustic style. That's all, also remember that you can make a ceiling chandelier for all types of environments for your home.
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