Build a multimedia console for TV 2026

Today we will show you how to build a multimedia console for TV in a practical way that you can do yourself at home.

These plans are to build a media console that measures 30 3/4" high, 18 3/4" deep and 62 1/4" wide.

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I built it for our game room, so it's a great size for storage as well as the TV and media components.

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I highly recommend using an anti-tip device with furniture like this. Enjoy!

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How to build a multimedia console for TV

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Materials:

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• (1) Box of Kreg 1 1/4" pocket screws
•  (1) Box of Kreg 1 1/4" pocket screws
• (25) 1 1/4" finishing nails
•  (8) 1/4" Shelf Brackets
•  (24) 3/4 «end nails
•  (4) Cabinet Door Magnets
•  (4) Door handles
• (8) Hinges
• 1 Plywood Veneer Roller, 1 Stain, paint or finish of your choice.
•  A wood glue

Procedure:

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Step 1 instructions:

The first pieces to join are the back and the sides.

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Attach the back to the sides with 1 1/4” hole screws and wood glue.

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Step 2 instructions:

Place the bottom shelf 3 1/4” from the bottom.

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This piece will need pocket holes on all sides to be able to attach it to the sides, back and front frame.

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Step 3 instructions:

Add the 1x3x16 1/4" bottom shelf bracket in the center, below the bottom shelf.

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Step 4 instructions:

Step 5 instructions:

Make the face frame.

The 1x3 top rail will need pocket holes along the top to then attach to the console top.

Each 1x2 style will need pocket holes on each end to attach to the 1x3 and 1x4 rails.

When all of your pocket holes are drilled, attach the outside 1x2 studs aligned with the outside edges of the 1x3 (top rail) using 1 1/4" pocket screws and wood glue.

To attach the middle stud, mark the center of the 1x3, then mark the center of the 1x2 and align the marks.

It will help you know if anything changed before securing the parts.

Use a speed square to square your joints and then hold them to the work surface to make sure they stay while you screw them together.

Step 6 instructions:

Attach the uprights to the bottom rail.

The outside studs will be 3/4" from the edge of the bottom 1x4 rail on each side.

Mark the center of the 1x4 to align with the center of the middle stud as you did for the top rail.

This will leave you with an opening 27 2/4" wide and 24" high on each side.

Step 7 instructions:

Attach the front frame with wood glue and the forward-facing pocket holes you had previously drilled into the plywood.

Next, attach each 1x4 side molding to each side.

Step 8 instructions:

Secure the top with the pocket holes you pre-drilled.

This should be flush with the back and leave an even overhang on the front and each side.

Once attached, add pine trim to the front and sides to cover the unfinished plywood trim.

You will use wood glue (don't skip this) and a nail gun with 1 1/4" finishing nails to attach it.

Step 9 instructions:

At the doors! I thought about building just one door for each side, but they would be pretty big doors, so I went with 2.

There are many much more sophisticated ways to create doors for this piece. I went with the simplest option.

To create each door, you will start by joining 2 1x3 door rails @ 8 3/4” to 2 1x3 door stiles @ 23 3/4” to create a rectangle. PLEASE NOTE: I used hinges that are visible and attached them to the outside of the front frame.

If you are using hinges that attach to the inside of the frame, you may need to adjust the size of your doors or notch the face frame to allow a flush finish for the hinges.

Dry your doors and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 10 instructions:

I suggest staining or painting the door pieces before adding the plywood.

Once dry, adhere the 1/4" plywood pieces to the backs of the door frames with wood glue and 3/4" nails.

Step 11 instructions:

Step 12 instructions:

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