Place Colorful Painted Wooden Tongue-and-groove Frieze 2026

Placing a Colorfully Painted Wooden Tongue-and-groove Frieze, eliminating humidity is not feasible for me, so I decided to cover the wall.

That's why I'm going to put a tongue-and-groove wooden frieze.

Some will think that leaving the wall with the color of the wood will be perfect for a carpentry channel, but I wanted to give it a touch of color, or rather colors.

I hope I haven't overdone it and it doesn't hurt your eyes to see so many colors.

The humidity that the wall gets is not much, but enough that it is not worth painting it, so I thought that the best option would be to cover it with tongue and groove.

In the garage where I had the workshop that you have seen so far in my videos, there was also moisture on the wall (a lot more, sometimes even a small layer of water) and on that occasion I covered it with plastic and chipboard panels on treated wooden slats.

And although the chipboard was deformed due to changes in temperature and humidity (and I don't mean that it swelled from absorbing water) I think it held up quite well.

As the humidity is much lower on this wall in this other garage, I am sure that covering it will be a good and cheap option.

The wooden frieze I bought is the cheapest I could find, with broken knots and some areas where resin is oozing, although luckily it only oozes a little resin in a couple of places on the front.

I certainly wouldn't use this tongue and groove for the inside of the house.

#1

To paint it I looked through all the old paint cans I had, including the ones that were for painting metal, and I found a package of thread that I had also bought a long time ago.

Although I had to buy a can of red paint and another of yellow (by mixing them I also got the orange).

#2

By making a ball of thread, dipping it in the paint and rubbing it on the slats of the frieze, I painted them little by little.

This way we achieve that instead of having painted wood we have a stained wood effect, with all the grains perfectly visible.

Once I had them painted I cut them all in half. And I also cut some of those halves in the middle.

#3

In order to place the wood covering on the wall, I first need to install some vertical slats. The ones I used are treated and were also the cheapest I found.

I made a hole in the middle and another about 15cm from each end, I put a steel nail in each hole.

I placed the strip in the desired position (in my case 60cm from each other) being careful to have it level and nailed the nails about half a centimeter.

I removed the nails and the batten and drilled 8mm diameter holes in the marks left by the nails, inserted some nylon plugs and screwed the batten to the wall.

Little by little until all the slats are in place.

Note:

Although now I recommend using a wider ribbon than the one I used. Or else put two slats together.

This will make it easier for the joint between two consecutive tongue-and-groove slats to coincide well on the vertical slats.

And we will have no problems when nailing.

#4

On top of the slats I placed two layers of greenhouse plastic to protect the frieze slats from humidity.

In the other workshop I had placed the plastic directly against the wall, but I think separating the plastic from the wall will help the humidity to vent.

As the slats are directly in contact with the wet wall, I needed the slats to be treated.

All I had to do was nail the wooden boards of the frieze to the slats using some headless nails.

The most complicated part is nailing the bottom row, but if we install it with the help of a level at the same time as the next row, as seen in the video, we will be able to leave it well leveled.

The rest of the rows are very easy to place and I only had to be careful not to match two slats of the same color.

Starting with the second row I only use a nail in the middle of the top of the slats.

#5

There are systems to hide the nails and also staples to install tongue and groove that are hidden, but I didn't need that much for the workshop.

Normally I would drive the nail heads into the wood with a punch, but I leave the nail heads sticking out slightly as I want to be able to remove them if necessary in case changes in humidity and temperature affect these slats too much.

Source: https://enredandonogaraxe.club

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