Great Corner Lamp! 2026

Great Corner Lamp, a light where it is needed most, in the dark corners of your room. It seems that no matter how many lights I turn on the corners always seem so dark.

This lamp is made up of 3 basic components: A triangular plywood frame, a cheap lamp holder, cable and a piece of transparent acrylic.

This lamp was not difficult to make, but it took me a little time to design. Although it is completely possible to do it with handheld power tools, this project is much easier with a table saw. Let's do it!

Step 1: Sketch the triangle

To begin, an equilateral triangle was drawn on a ½” piece of plywood.

To get the correct angle, I used a digital angle finder, but any protractor would work too.

The size of the triangle should be large enough to create a cavity when installed that will fit an outlet and light bulb, I found that with each triangular side measuring 24″ it gave me a good fit.

Once the equilateral triangle was drawn, I created a concentric triangle with parallel sides inside the first triangle, ¾”.

Step 2: Cut on the table saw

Using the lines of the outer triangle as a guide, the triangle was cut from the plywood.

You can use a table saw for this, or you can use any other tool that is capable of making straight cuts.

When the triangle shape was cut, the table saw blade was angled to make a 45° bevel cut.

Using a sled I lined up the edges of the triangle with the cut line on the table saw sled, clamped the wood together, and cut a bevel on each side of the triangle.

Step 3: Drill

Once the outer shape has been cut, we can begin removing the inner section of the triangle.

Using a large diameter drill bit I drilled some openings near each corner of the inside of the triangle, these openings will allow the cutting tool room blade to maneuver between straight sections of cuts.

Any cutting tool can complete the task of removing the inside of the wooden triangle, I used a jigsaw, but a hand saw would work just as well.

Use one of the drilled openings to begin your cut. Follow the pencil line as closely as possible and retreat around the corners to find the next drilled opening.

Step 4: Clean the inside corners

With a little cutting, most of the interior wood can be removed in one large piece.

This will allow you to maneuver the blade into the corners and nibble the last pieces inside the pencil marks.

Step 5: By hand

Of course, power tools can't solve everything. For any really precise areas, you can use a thin Japanese saw and remove the wood corners by hand, making sure to hold your frame firmly.

Step 6: Drill the mounting holes

To mount the triangular frame to the wall we will need to make some mounting holes. Since the triangle frame is very lightweight, it will not requirelots of fasteners to hold it to the wall.

I found some long wood screws and selected a drill bit to match the diameter of the screws.

The frame was resting on the table with the beveled side down, the frame was tilted up on one side until the bevel was flat against the table.

The frame was gently tightened in this position, allowing clear access to the inside edge, which is where the mounting holes will be drilled.

A hole was drilled halfway along the side of the triangle, perpendicular from the inside edge of the frame, through the bevel at the bottom.

The frame was then released, rotated, and the same process was repeated on the remaining two sides.

A countersink bit was used to allow the screw heads to be flush with the frame when installed.

Step 7: Clear Acrylic

To cover the light and part of the frame, a piece of transparent acrylic was used.

The acrylic was cut to fit over the top of the frame, so it needed to be about ½" larger on all sides than the interior triangle opening.

Most clear acrylics will have a protective film to prevent the acrylic surface from being scratched, for our next step we will need to remove all of the protective film.

Step 8: Sand the acrylic

To diffuse the light we will have to make the transparent acrylic go away.

Using an orbital sander with a 120-grit sanding pad, evenly sand both sides of the clear acrylic, creating a smooth, fuzzy surface.

To clean things up a bit I went over both surfaces again with a 180 grit sanding pad, which evened out the glaze and provided a clean look without any major sanding scratches.

Step 9: Magnet

To hold the frosted acrylic in the frame I used small but powerful 3/16″x1/16″ neodymium magnets.

First I placed the frosted acrylic on the face of the triangle frame and centered the acrylic, making a small mark in the corners and on the side of the acrylic.

I used a drill bit that was a little larger than the diameter of the magnet.

I carefully drilled through the acrylic at the marked corners. By not drilling completely through the acrylic, there is a smooth, undamaged surface on the other side.

The neodymium magnets were glued into each crevice with a small touch of strong 2-part epoxy.

Step 10: Metal Attachment Points

To give the magnets something to grip, I attached metal machine screws with flat caps to the wooden frame.

To do this, I centered the acrylic sheet with the magnets attached to it on the top of the flat face of the frame and marked where the magnets fell on the frame.

Since I just wanted the machine screws to be flush with the face of the frame, I drilled a smaller opening for the threaded part of the screw and a shallow opening for the head of the screw.

The frame is delicate, so I hand-tightened the screws in each opening until the heads were flush with the face of the triangle frame.

Step 11: Wiring

Before the frame can be mounted to the wall, we need to make a cavity in the back of the frame to allow for the power cord.

I used fabric covered lamp cord for this project, they can also be found inexpensively at your local store.

I sketched out where I wanted the wire to come out of my lamp frame with a pencil, then carefully cut a cavity with a rotary tool with a drill bit.

I checked often to know that I was removing enough material to allow the entire diameter of the cable to fit inside the cavity, this was a little tricky because the cavity had to be angled at the same angle as the bevel before.

Fortunately it wasn't too difficult, and the rotary tool did it quickly.

Next, I sanded the cavity so the fabric-wrapped cord doesn't get tangled.

Step 12: Place the frame and lamp

With the bevels cut on each side, the frame only fits in one position.

Place the light cord, plug it against the wall and then place the triangle frame, passing the cord through the cut cavity in the frame.

Place the frame so that all sides are snug against the wall.

Step 13: Assembly of frame + lamp holder

With the frame in place, screws can be driven through the drilled openings from the inside of the frame into the wall.

This frame is very lightweight, so it doesn't require much to keep attached to the wall, and you certainly won't need drywall anchors.

The lamp holder can also be attached to the wall, removing the weight of the cable from the triangular frame and allowing the wall to hold the lamp separately.

Since the socket is hidden behind an acrylic cover, mounting does not need to be special.

The socket I used had a threaded mounting ring with some openings that I used to run a long screw through and secure it to the wall.

The critical part here is that the lamp is placed high enough not to break the plane of the face of the triangular frame, which would interfere with the acrylic cover and prevent the magnets from gripping the frame, but also to make sure that the lamp is far enough away from the wall to allow air circulation.

As the lamp bulb is so close to the wall, an LED bulb is used as they do not produce heat in the same way as incandescent bulbs.

Step 14: Add the acrylic and enjoy!

With the frame and plinth installed, the frosted acrylic faceplate can be placed on top, held firmly by magnets. Plug it in and your darkest corners will be beautifully illuminated!

Have you made your own corner lamp? I want to see it in the Comments!

Get more information at perfectionidea.com and on our Facebook for more Great Corner Lamp.

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