How to Build a Side Fold Murphy Bunk Bed! 2026

How to Build a Side Fold Murphy Bunk Bed. Transform a spare bedroom or media room into a guest room with a “Murphy Bunk Bed” with two twin mattresses. Maximize space by placing a custom Murphy bunk bed in an unused closet or an odd-sized corner of a room. To further personalize this bed, the bottom can be used as an area for crafts or others.

Materials:

• 5 Sheets of 3/4″ prefinished birch plywood.
• Wooden wedges.
• Wood glue.
• 3/4″ birch edge banding.
• 8 Bronze Flanged Sleeve Bearings for 5/8″ Shaft Diameter, 7/8″ OD, 1/2″ Length.
• 4 Alloy Steel Shoulder Bolts, 5/8″ Shoulder Diameter, 1 1/2″ Shoulder, 1/2″-13 Thread.
• 4 Steel Coupling Nuts, 1/2″-13 thread, 1 1/4″ long.
• 4 Fully threaded hex head bolts, 1/2″-13 thread, 1/2″ length.
• 16 Flat Washers, 1/2″ bore, 1 1/4″ OD.
• 1 Heavy Duty Piano Hinge with Holes, Unfinished, .042″ Thick, 1 1/16″ Wide, 2′ Long.
• Epoxy.
• 24′ of 1×4 poplar.
• Finish paint.
• 60 Pocket Screws.
• 2-1/2″ bunk mattresses.
• (2) Door latches.

Tools:

• Hand drill
• Tape measure
• Framing square
• 7 1/4″ circular saw or table saw
• Pocket Screw Jig
• Level
• Band saw or bow saw with metal blade
• Wrench and socket assembly
• 7/8″ Forstner bit

Security Team:

• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• Work gloves
• Earplugs

Step 1: Determine the location

Could an existing corner in a room be used? In general, closets should not be used in bedrooms, as this can reduce the number of rooms counted when a home is resold. For a double side folding mattress, a footprint of at least 80-1/2″W x 83-1/2″H x 12″D will be required.

Step 2: Measure and cut materials

A standard two-size mattress is 39″x75″ with bunk mattresses available as deep as 5″. If deeper space is available, modify these instructions for a standard depth mattress. Start by cutting a sheet of 3/4″ prefinished plywood into 5″ strips with a fine-tooth blade. Pluck eight 5″ rows from one sheet. Then trim the strips to create the following pieces: Four 76-1/2" x 5" and four 39" x 5". Then cut two 40-1/2″x 76-1/2″ pieces from two more sheets of plywood. These will form the bottoms of the box.

Step 3: Drill Screw Holes

Mount the boxes with pocket screws. Drill 16″ pocket screw holes on center on one side of each long edge of each piece. Drill two pocket screw holes on one side of each short edge of the 39″ short pieces only (four holes total). Be sure to set the depth of the template to join two 3/4″ pieces of material.

Step 4: Assemble the sides

Using a slotted screwdriver and framing square, assemble the box sides to the bottom of the box starting with the long pieces first. They will be flush with the bottom of the box, while the short sides will be inset 3/4″ into each side. Once all the sides are attached to the bottom, pin the corners of the short pieces (to the long pieces), making sure the corner stays square and level along the outside edge.

Step 5: Exposed End Cut

Place a clothes iron on medium heat and let it heat up completely. Start the edge banding at one end and heat it slowly as you move along the piece. Be sure to run the band straight; backtrack, reheat and rework off-road sections. Cut the belt trim at each end and then use a belt trimmer to eremove any excess once the piece has cooled. Lightly sand each edge to remove sharpness.

Step 6: Building Structure

The frame will be constructed from 3/4″ plywood and should be the same size as the space in which it is installed. The overall dimensions in this case will be 77″ wide x 84″ high x 14″ deep (of course). If the space is larger, fill the frame to 80-1/2″W x 83-1/2″H so the bed frame has room for shims against the frame. Cut two 14″x 82-1/2″ sides and one 14″x80″ top from a piece of plywood. Cut two 40-1/2″ x 5″ pieces of the plywood. Arrange these on one of the 14″x82-1/2″ sides to determine the correct pivot point.

Both sides should be able to open and close without hitting each other. Position them so the bottom is 3/4″ proud of the frame when closed. Be sure to space them vertically so there is equal space between the floor, bed frames, and top frame. Use a small nail or screw to temporarily test the pivot points: the closer to the center of the mattress, the better the balance. In this case, the depth was limited, so the pivot point is skewed toward the back of the mattress.

Step 7: Screw the frame sides and top together

Once the pivot point is set, screw the hidden outer edges of the frame sides and top together. Use replacement strips of plywood at the top and bottom of the back to help keep the frame square. Cut four pieces of plywood to approximately 4″x80″ and laminate both sides of the outside face of the vertical frame legs with 1-1/4″ wood screws. Transfer the pivot points and drill the vertical frame legs with a 5/8″ bit. Use the Epoxy on the coupling nut in this hole.

Step 8: Finishing Frame

Drill the mattress frame at the pivot point with a 7/8″ drill bit and epoxy flange bushing on each side. Once the epoxy dries, install a 1/2″ cap bolt with washer on the outside of the coupling nut with a closet thread.

Step 9: Install the external frame

Install the outer frame into the opening. Align the frame so that it is flush with the existing wall that covers less molding. Plumb each side with a level and shim as necessary. Fasten with 15-gauge nails (at least 2″ long) through the inside face of the plywood frame and into the frame opening on each shim.

Be sure to secure this frame as it carries half the total weight of the bed. Trim the perimeter of the plywood frame to the wall with 1x2 poplar (or trim to match the existing space).

Step 10: Install the top and bottom mattress frames

With an assistant, install the bottom mattress frame into the opening, passing a threaded shoulder bolt with four washers through the threaded flange bearings on the back side with three washers on the coupling nut. Tighten the shoulder bolts with a thread locker. Temporarily secure the mattress frame by resting it against the back wall. Following the same steps, install the top mattress frame.

Step 11: Cut out the bottom face

Trimmed the bottom face (visible when closed) with 1mm poplar with a 1″ overlap on the already installed outer frame. As this edge creates the external parallel pivot point for the mattresses, secure it with pocket screws from the back.

Two vertical and two horizontal legs will cover the 1/4″ space between the mattresses and the outer frame. The upright legs will not be full length as they form the front leg that supports the mattress. Cut four piano hinge pieces to 3-1/2″ and attach them to the bottom edge of the mattress frames behind the floating outer edge. Fit the floating edge to the hingeof the piano.

Step 12: Install the Door Latch

Install a gate latch at the midpoint of the floating compensator (at the piano hinge point of the bottom frame) on the fixed outside edge of the wall. This is only to keep the frame closed, not to support the weight. Lastly, there will be a piece of 1x4 molding attached to the outside frame (underneath the floating part that forms the leg of the mattress). It may be necessary to make a back cut in the floating leg so that these two pieces do not touch the opening.

Step 13: Completion

The final steps include installing a ladder, a safety rail to the top bunk, and a spring counterweight system. The simplest spring balance system is a closed double drum trailer ramp spring and cable assembly.  The spring load tension should be adjusted so that the bed has a slight upward movement when released near the closed position. This step is very important as the bed can cause a hazard to small children who try to open it.

A ladder can be constructed from a variety of fun and innovative materials to match the bottoms of the bunk bed. In this case, a simple 2x4 ladder was built to match the artistic “billboard” sign painted on the bottom of the bunk beds. The ladder must be mounted directly on the floating edge to rotate with the bed.

Finally, make sure the feet of the ladder touch the ground when the bed is open to fully support its own weight. The top bunk also needs safety rails installed on both sides. The interior side must have a rail installed along the entire length. The outside side should have a rail that starts at the edge of the ladder and both should be at least 5″ above the mattress.

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