Learn How to Make Octagonal Concrete for a Driveway! 2026

Learn How to Make Octagonal Concrete for a Driveway, having an octagonal paver patio or path is slightly more difficult than laying a straight edge paver path. With octagonal pavers, you have to be careful when planning the path to ensure that all the edges of the pavers line up exactly. After the planning process, actually laying the pavers is done just like any other paving project. This project will take several days to complete.

Step 1: Let's get to work!

This project can, of course, be reduced. If you only have the ability (or need) to make a few, you can mix small batches of concrete in a bucket with a garden trowel. I would not recommend a regular five-gallon bucket for mixing concrete, as it is too deep and narrow to fully mix the concrete; It's not impossible if it's all you have.

You would also need to make several identical concrete molds - having access to certain power tools made this task much easier. A miter saw and drill with bits and drivers (pictured) will be needed to build the molds.

If you just want to build a mold, you can use a Miter Box and a miter saw. Please note that this project requires 2x4s, and not all manual miter boxes are large enough to handle wood this thick.

Step 2: Concrete molds

Here we see the design we established for the paver mold. In the end, I went with a paver that was about 8 inches wide. The great part about doing it yourself is that you get to decide how big your pavers should be; Just remember, the length of each of the eight sides, and also the length of the inside sides (of the hole in the middle) should all be the same; In my case, all the outside and inside sides of the pavers are 4 inches.

The three-piece inner mold assembly consists of one 4-inch 2x4 piece (in the middle) and (2) 4-inch 1x6 pieces. This design was not my first attempt, but was the result of a “Live and Learn” experience.

Knowledgeable woodworkers will recognize that 2x4s aren't really 2 inches by 4 inches and 1x6s aren't really 1x6, so I won't appear exactly four inches all around... But I did it anyway, the difference is a fraction of an inch, and it's not really noticeable.

Step 3: A Little Carpentry

As you can see in the primitive drawing, the mold consists of four 2x4 cut bevels, two 2x4 straight cut (4 inches long), and four 2x4 straight cut (2 inches long), as well as a buckle and hinge. Screws and glue hold the entire assembly together.

If you plan to make multiple molds, I suggest using an assembly line approach like I did, making all bevel cut parts, then all straight cut parts, before assembling the molds. This way you don't have to reconfigure the angles on your miter saw, and assembling the molds from a "parts bin" of randomized components ensures a level of consistency between molds - good or bad, at least they will. everything is the same...

Notes:

In addition to glue, use 2-inch deck screws, driven diagonally, to attach the individual components. Starting at the "top" (the molds don't really have a top or bottom) sink a small pilot hole diagonally across the beveled pieces on the straight cut pieces, then chase the pilot hole with a hole large enough to countersink the screw heads, but only about 1/4 in.inch deep. When working near the edges of relatively cheap wood like this, pilot holes are a must, as it will split the wood wide open if you try to "brute force" it...

A quick note on pilot holes: the hole should ideally be just a hair smaller than the axis of the screw you plan to use. One way to determine this is to take the drill bit you plan to use and hold it directly behind one of the screws, if you can see the drill bit poking out of the shaft of the screw then the drill bit is too big. Now reverse the screw and the tip, all you should see of the screw are the "spirals", and maybe a little bit of the shaft.

Step 4: Preparing the molds

It's almost time to start pouring concrete!

Pavers should be smooth on one side. To achieve this, experiment with a few different types of underlying material. The plastic (coroplast) did not allow water to dissipate in the drying concrete, although it did produce a super smooth surface on the paver. I also tried simply placing the molds on the treated concrete floor, this also produced a fairly smooth face, but left a nasty residue on my garage floor, and I encountered the same water dissipation problem that occurred with the plastic.

It's no surprise that wood is a decent choice... It allows water to dissipate, releases quick-drying concrete quite easily, and provides a fairly smooth face, too...

If you look closely at the fourth image, you'll notice that some of the center molds are wrapped in different materials - I was experimenting with ways to make the release of the center mold less traumatic.

As long as the concrete particles cannot enter the grain of the wood, it will not stick...

Step 5: Let's make some pavers!

Now we can finally get to the fun part! What type of concrete? General use, high resistance, quick drying.

How thick should they be? How should they be reinforced?

If the area you plan to cover is going to see primarily pedestrian traffic or very light vehicle traffic (bicycle, motorcycle), then general purpose concrete with relatively light reinforcements (as shown in the image) will be suitable.

My pavers were going to see a little more abuse than that (motorcycles, light cars, light trailers) but they wouldn't be in a high traffic area, it would be more of a spare parking lot, so I chose to use high strength concrete with light reinforcement.

Those who want a pavement that can be used in a heavy vehicle, high traffic area should probably use high strength concrete with heavier rebar. Your pavers should be a little thicker than mine too...

There are many variables that will affect quality; Variations in thickness will have a profound effect on the overall strength. The solution may seem obvious; just make them as thick as possible... No one's going to stop you if that's how you want to play, but I didn't want to lose too much concrete, and I didn't want to break my back on massively heavy pavers.

Notes:

It was decided to pour the molds approximately 2/3 full gave me a thickness (3 inches).

When pouring the concrete into the molds, you should stop about halfway through to tamp the concrete into the mold (I used some wood) and place the reinforcing wire (or rebar). Then pour the remaining concrete. Tamping the concrete once more, with an eye to making sure the concrete is level across the mold, I mention this only because I had some wedge shaped pavers, due to my lack of attention to this detail.

As you can see from the pictures, I also think it is a goodIt's a good idea to wear gloves when working with wet concrete, it's not that hard to wash, but it will absorb all the moisture from your skin. If you're just making a few pavers then it's not a big deal, but doing about 40 batches of six or eight at a time should be considered...

A final note on concrete mixing; The amount of water used in the concrete mix will determine the consistency and strength of your final product: too much water will produce brittle concrete and too little water will cause the concrete to sag and ruin. Following manufacturers' recommendations is a good start, but you may have to reduce the water/mixture ratio a bit to find the butter zone; If you are unsure, play with small batches first, this will help give ideas of what the right consistency should be…

Step 6: Demoulding

I have patiently let the concrete dry for 24 hours, and now is a good time to release the new pavers from the molds, any sooner and the concrete will not be dry enough (and will be crumbly).

The force required to overcome the wood/concrete friction (and remove the mold) was inevitably destructive to both the pavers and the mold...

Despite all precautions, my defect/breakage rate was approximately 10% of the entire race; In other words, about half of all my lots either had a defective paver or I broke one...

Friction is less of a problem with external molds. The longer the pavers sit drying in the mold, the stickier they become, but if you remove them at the appropriate time, they should simply slide out of the mold without much drama.  Whatever you do, don't hit him! Touch the mold lightly...

This brings me to a point about the molds themselves; Mine got beat up, they all got loose after about twenty rounds. I re-tightened the screws and continued, but some of the molds just wouldn't do it. The kinder you are with your molds, the more you'll get out of them.

We are on our way! We have our first six pavers! Only 194 more left…

Step 7: The Sand and the Fury…

In practical terms, this meant first relocating a few cubic yards of dirt (by hand) to another project that was happening simultaneously in the backyard.

In order for the pavers to line up with the driveway, I actually had to dig down to a depth of about 5-6 inches below the driveway, to accommodate the pavers and sand under them. Sand provides a layer of support for pavers, distributing weight more evenly and making them less likely to crack. Underneath the sand is a layer of weed protection fabric: This prevents weeds from taking root. Regardless of its size, the weed and sand barrier will extend the life of your project.

When it comes to laying flat areas of brick, pavers, flagstone, etc., there are established methods to ensure that the project turns out flat and level. One last thing, be sure to cover your unattended spare litter, or the neighborhood cats may leave you some gifts...

Step 8: The grand finale

In the last step, I extolled the virtues of weed barrier fabric. Well, you might want to ignore that advice if you plan to fill the gaps with soil and let the grass grow. This is a perfectly viable option, providing you with a lovely lawn/driveway hybrid.

We opted to fill the holes with a 2- to 1-inch native river stone.

I made the decision to paint the concrete pavers because I wanted them to match the existing (store-bought) patio pavers in front of my door. Staining them all at once provided color uniformity and consistency. the paint was quite watery so I was able to use a hand pump sprayer to apply it; If you use this method, be careful with overspray, because that stain does not come off the sidewalk...

Setting the pavers securely in their sand bed and filling their small holes filled with stones (or dirt and grass) goes a long way toward the overall soundness of the installation, but as with all DIY projects, failure is still a possibility. It's okay though, if some pavers break, you can always do more to replace them!

I hope the information I have provided here is useful to those who have never done a project like this before. Thanks again for reading, and I look forward to your comments!

Get more information at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more Learn to Make Octagonal Concrete for Driveways.

Creative Home Decor Ideas to Transform Every Space

Refreshing your home starts with smart design choices that combine comfort, personality, and functionality. Whether you want to modernize a small apartment, upgrade outdoor areas, or create cozy rustic interiors, these trending ideas can completely change the atmosphere of your space.

Outdoor Spaces That Increase Style and Functionality

Outdoor living continues to dominate modern home trends. Homeowners are increasingly investing in practical entertainment zones inspired by these BBQ shed ideas, which create the perfect setup for gatherings and weekend cooking sessions.

First impressions also matter when designing exteriors. Elegant farm entrance gates design ideas help properties stand out while improving privacy and curb appeal.

Compact living solutions are also gaining popularity. These inspiring 16x40 shed house interior design ideas show how smaller spaces can still feel luxurious and functional.

To enhance patios and entryways, homeowners are adding stylish protection with these creative porch awning exterior DIY ideas that blend aesthetics with practicality.

Rustic and Cozy Interior Design Trends

Warm and natural interiors remain timeless. These charming rustic decor ideas combine wood textures, vintage accents, and earthy tones to create welcoming spaces.

Bedrooms are becoming more personalized with curated wall arrangements. Many homeowners use these stylish picture wall ideas for bedroom spaces to display memories and artwork creatively.

Textured wall treatments are another major trend. Installing a board and batten wall adds architectural character while keeping interiors elegant and modern.

Similarly, bold accent wall ideas can instantly transform plain rooms into eye-catching focal points without requiring a full renovation.

Smart Kitchen and Organization Inspiration

Functional kitchens are essential for modern homes. These practical kitchen wall cabinet ideas maximize storage while maintaining a clean and stylish appearance.

Organization also starts at the entrance. Well-designed mud room ideas help families keep shoes, coats, and daily essentials neatly arranged.

Colorful and Personalized Home Styling

Vibrant interiors are becoming increasingly popular thanks to playful dopamine decor ideas that use bright colors and joyful accessories to improve mood and energy.

Gallery walls also continue to evolve as a major decorative feature. These trendy gallery wall inspiration ideas offer creative ways to combine prints, photos, and statement art.

Young renters and new homeowners are especially embracing these stylish first apartment aesthetic ideas to create sophisticated interiors on a budget.

Finally, selecting the right shades can dramatically influence any room’s atmosphere. These modern trendy color ideas help homeowners choose palettes that feel fresh, elegant, and timeless.

Final Thoughts

From rustic charm and colorful interiors to outdoor entertaining areas and functional storage solutions, today’s home decor trends focus on creating spaces that feel both beautiful and livable. By combining smart layouts, modern textures, and personalized decorative elements, any home can become more stylish, comfortable, and inspiring.