Making a Corner Entertainment Center! 2026

Making a Corner Entertainment Center with plenty of shelf space and angled sides, designed to fit perfectly in the corner of a room.

https://www.buildsomething.com/plans/P9BDCAD04C4ED7FEE/Corner-Entertainment-Center

Materials needed:
Wood products:

• (1) Full sheet, 3/4″ thick plywood
• (1) Half sheet, 3/4″ thick plywood
• (5) 3x3 boards, 36″
• (5) 1×4 boards, 72″
• (1) 1×3 boards, 72″
• (2) 1×3 boards, 48″
• (2) 2×2 boards, 36″
• (2) 2×2 boards, 24″
• (1) 1×2 boards, 72″

Tools:

• (248) 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• (5) Felt Furniture Sliders with 1-2″ Nails
• (16) 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
• (5) Felt Furniture Glides with 3/4″ Nails
• (1) Wood finish

Cut List:

• (5) Top surface, 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 58″
• (1) Top: Front edge, 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 43″
• (2) Top: Front Corner Trim, 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 16″
• (1) Top: Back edge, 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 41″
• (2) Top: Back Corner Trim, 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 16″
• (5) Legs, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 26 1/4″
• (4) Front Frames, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 17 1/4″
• (4) Corner Frames, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 12″
• (2) Front shelf edge, 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17 1/4″
• (2) Corner Shelf Edge, 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 12″
• (1) Back panel, 3/4″ x 26 1/4″ x 42″
• (3) Vertical Dividers, 3/4″ x 24 3/4″ x 18 1/4″
• (2) Corner Back Panels, 3/4″ x 24 3/4″ x 12 3/4″
• (4) Shelves, 3/4″ x 18 1/4″ x 19 7/8″
• (4) Corner Shelves, 3/4″ x 12″ x 12″

Step 1: Sanding and finishing

I have learned that it is much easier for me to sand everything and apply the finish and polyurethane as I go. You can wait until the end if you prefer, but I will make notes along the way, indicating when I will apply the finish.

You will end up with some pocket holes that are partially visible from the front, and many that are visible from the back.

If you want, you can fill them after assembling everything, but that also means leaving at least the polyurethane for last too.

I didn't fill mine as they are not noticeable, especially with the dark stain.

Step 2: Top surface

Cut five 1x4s to just over 58″, and drill 3/4″ pocket holes as shown. Use 1 1/4″ screws to secure the boards, forming the top surface of the furniture.

Hole locations are important, especially near each end.

You can adjust the location of the pocket holes, but with these locations, you need to avoid the screws coming together for the rest of the project.

Step 3: Cut for the Corners

Use a circular saw or table saw to cut the corners at 45°.

The resulting long edge should be 40 1/2″, and each angled edge should be approximately 12 3/8″.

The longest board in the middle should be 58″ from tip to tip.

Step 4: Cutouts

Measure each side of your new top surface and cut six 1x3s to fit as moldings. Approximate lengths of each piece are shown in the image. Always make sure to cut the length first, then shave it to size.

I decided to just create a nice mitered corner for the border that will be on the front side (facing the room).

The rest of the corners don't matter as much, and it's much easier to get it right without the miter. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes as shown.

Use 1 1/4″ screws to secure the boards. Apply finish and polyurethane.

Step 5: Legs

Cut five 3x3 pieces to 26 1/4″ for the legs. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes toward the top of each legin the locations shown in this image from top to bottom. The arrows indicate where the pocket holes in the legs should be.

Apply a stain and polyurethane. Note which leg is which and which direction is in front by writing it on one end of each leg.

Step 6: Rear corner of the panels

Cut two pieces of plywood to 24 3/4″ x 12 3/4″ for the back corner panels. One of the long edges should be cut at a 45 degree angle so that the width of the smaller side is 12″ as shown.

Drill 3/4″ pocket holes along the top edge and the edge opposite the angled edge as shown.

This is the inside of the back corner panels. Make a note of which panel is which and which end is up by writing it on one edge of each piece.

Step 7: Flip the back corner of the panels

Flip the panels. I'm sure there are better ways to attach these corner pieces, but this is what I did.

Set up your pocket hole jig as if you were drilling 3/4″ pocket holes as shown along the angled edge.

But before drilling the holes, move the template an extra 1/4″ from the edge to compensate for the angle. Drill pocket holes. This is the reverse of the back corner panels. Apply finish and polyurethane.

Step 8: Attach the legs to the back corner panels

Attach the left corner and right corner legs to the back corner panels with 1 1/4″ screws.

Take special note of the positions of the pocket holes on the legs and the direction of the angled edge on the back panels. back panels should be flush with top of leg and 1 1/2″ from bottom of leg.

The back of the back panels should be flush with the back of the leg.

Step 9: Back Panel

Cut a piece of plywood to 42″ x 26 1/4″. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes in the top edge as shown.

I put the pocket holes on the back to make them easier to reach during assembly, but they could also work on the inside. Apply finish and polyurethane.

Step 10: Vertical Dividers

Cut three pieces of plywood to 24 3/4″ x 18 1/4″ for the vertical dividers. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes as shown. Note the divider you are writing on the top edge of each divider, along with an arrow pointing toward the leading edge.

Step 11: Flip the Vertical Dividers

Flip the dividers over and drill 3/4″ pocket holes as shown. Be sure to keep track of which edge is for each divider. Apply finish and polyurethane.

Step 12: Attach the legs to the vertical dividers

Attach the left, center and right front legs to the vertical standoffs with 1 1/4″ screws. Pay particular attention to the positions of the pocket holes in the legs.

The positions of each divider on the legs are shown in the image. Indicate where the hidden leg holes should be. The left and right dividers should be aligned with the outside edge of the legs.

The center divider should be centered on the leg. The tops of the three legs should be aligned with the top edges. of the dividers

Step 13: Attach the dividers to the back panel

Attach the left, center, and right vertical dividers to the back panel with 1 1/4″ screws. The left and right dividers should be aligned with the left and right edges of the back panel.

The center divider should be centered on the back panel.

The top of the dividers should be flush with the toperior of the rear panel. For the rest of this project, I found it easiest to assemble everything upside down on a perfectly flat surface.

Step 14: Shelving

Cut four pieces of plywood to 19 7/8″ x 18 1/4″ for the main center shelves and four 90° triangular pieces to 12″ x 12″ with about 17″ on the long edge. Make sure you plan your cuts so that the canvas of the wood goes in the right direction.

Test your shelves between the dividers to make sure they fit before drilling the pocket holes, as you may have to cut a little on some of the shelves to make them fit. 4″ pocket holes as shown.

The four main shelves are identical, but the two left corner shelves are the exact opposite of the two right corner shelves.

Take note of which shelf is written on the edge of each shelf, along with an arrow pointing toward the front. Apply finish and polyurethane.

Step 15: Attach the shelves

With the main unit still face down, attach the main center shelves to the back panel and the vertical dividers of the main unit built with 1 1/4″ screws.

The bottom shelves should end 3/4″ above the bottom of the vertical dividers.

Step 16: Place the Corner Shelves

You may find a better way, but I found it easier to attach the corner shelves to the back corner panels before attaching the panels to the main unit.

Attach the left and right corner shelves to the left and right corner back panels with 1 1/4″ screws.

Bottom shelves should end 3/4″ above the vertical dividers.

Step 17: Attach the corners

With everything upside down, carefully align the corner units with the main unit and secure with 1 1/4″ screws.

Start by attaching the corner back panel to the back panel of the main unit, and then ensure each shelf is level by carefully measuring and pushing each shelf to the correct height before attaching it to the main unit's vertical divider.

Step 18: Attach the top surface

Place the top surface face down on a clean sheet or rag to avoid scratches, and then place the rest of the built unit face down on that.

Align the top surface with the rest of the unit by measuring the overhang on all sides, and then secure the top surface to the legs, back panels, and vertical dividers with 1 1/4″ screws.

Step 19: Upholstery and frames

Cut the 1x2 shelf edge and 2x2 frames a little larger than the sizes shown, then test fit each piece on the entertainment center to make sure they fit before drilling the pocket holes.

Take note of which piece is which and which side is on top, writing it at the end of each piece.

Step 20: Drill and Frame Pocket Holes

Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes in the bottom side of each 2x2 frame piece, and 3/4″ pocket holes in the bottom side of each 1x2 trim piece as shown.

Drill 3/8″ diameter countersink holes in the top four frame pieces as shown. I just used the Kreg Jig bit, and made sure not to go any further than 3/4″. Apply finish and polyurethane.

Step 21: Attach decorations and frames

With the entertainment center still face down, place the top frames on the bottom of the top surface and the bottom frames on the bottom shelves.

For bottom frames, the top edge should be flush with the top surface of the shelves. CoLocate the four shelf moldings flush with the shelves. Use 2 1/2″ screws to attach the frame pieces to the legs and 1 1/4″ screws for everything else.

Step 22: Finishing

If you applied the finish on the way, flip the entertainment center over and you're done! If you notice it wobbles, you may need to sand some of the legs to get everything level. You may also want to place some felt sliders on the legs and back panel if you're worried about scratching the floor.

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