Pallet Header with LED Lights! 2026

Pallet Header with LED Lights, I mixed and matched Pallet boards and used more than 2x4s and this turned out beautiful. I had to buy the lights. I also had to buy the polyurethane. Screws to mount the bed frame to the headboard.

Step 1: Frame

Start by measuring the bed frame you are attaching to this headboard as well. Then measure the desired height you want the headboard to be.

Please note that if you are building this outside your home and plan to move it inside, you will be able to access it from the door.

I measured from corner to corner of the exterior door I planned to enter to make sure I could fit it inside. The height I chose to use was 80″ high by 83″ wide.

The boxes were approximately 28″x24″. These boxes can be adjusted to obtain the desired size for the width of your bed. 10-2x4x8 will build the frame.

The 2×4s I used were left over from a project earlier in the year.

Step 2: Recovery of the wood from the platform

After building the frame, I started tearing down the Pallets I had collected in the backyard. The children joined in and helped remove the nails and dismantle the Pallets.

I had approximately 10 Pallets from various places, as well as my neighbor finding some for me. Once you have separated the Pallets, it is time to cut and place the 1/2″ to 3/4″ thick planks on the front of your frame.

I tried to stagger the joints so that not all the joints were on the same part of the 2x4 frame, this also breaks the pattern so not all areas are the same.

Step 3: Fill in the gaps

Now all that's left is to fill the empty squares and the cosmetics. Use the planks to nail them to the back of the frame to fill in the square gaps. I also trimmed the gaps with boards to cover the frame.

Next, I trimmed the ends and the top. Measure the thickness of both ends so you can cover the planks nailed to the front so you don't end up with rough ends.

For the top, I left a 1″ overhang at the top front and ends to finish off the top.

I also left about a six-inch section of the end moldings to allow for any necessary adjustments to the bed frame.

Step 4: Light Sanding and finishing

Now is the time to highlight the beauty! Lightly sand the entire headboard to remove sharp corners and splinters.

Once you've sanded this with at least 100 grit sandpaper, use an air nozzle and remove as much of the sawdust as possible. You can begin applying your polyurethane.

I chose a semi-gloss but you can use a real glitter. You may need to apply several coats, it depends on yourself.

Step 5: Add Lighting and Move!

Now is the time to put the finishing touches on your headboard. I researched different lighting options, I had Cyron 9″ LED light bars that had 4 light bars and all the necessary connections for easy installation.

I mounted 1 light bar in each of the recessed boxes and matched the ones under the top cover on the back of the frame. Assembled, it can be rotated to obtain the desired accent.

I only had to drill a hole in each of the recessed boxes for the cables to run to the back of the frame.

I used the ties from the packaging to straighten the loose cables on the back of the frame.

You could drill holes in the back of the frame like you were wiring a house if you want too. Now that you have the lights finished it's time to move the headboard.

I unfolded the bed to the bed frame and cut another 2x4 to nail through the legs so I had a place to mount the bed frame. Align the bed frame upso it is centered on the headboard and drill holes in your 2x4.

I used 4 – 5/16 x 2 – 1/2″ hex bolts, 16 – 1/4″ washers and 4 – 5/16 hex nuts.

Attach the bed frame to the headboard and place them together from behind. This headboard turned out better than expected, but it is extremely heavy due to the use of 2x4 for the frame. You may want to use smaller dimensional lumber for the frame, so it is not as heavy.

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