Rustic Log Shaped Card Storage Box! 2026

Rustic Log Shaped Card Storage Box, looks like a heavy solid log, but with most of the interior removed, this box has a manageable weight. After being made, this storage box can be removed from the lid and placed in your garden as a fun container.

Ready to make this amazing card box? Let's do it!

Step 1: Get the trunk

Your needs will dictate the size of your log, mine was approximately 18″ (46 cm) high and 13″ (33 cm) in diameter.

The ends will be trimmed to square the log, so choose a log section that is longer than the final dimensions you are looking for.

The log I used was "green", which means that it has a high internal moisture content as it is not dried.

Green wood is any wood with an internal moisture content of approximately 12% or more.

This is important as undried wood will begin to dry out and react when you start working with it, while dried wood is normally dimensionally stable when the moisture content is removed.

Wood needs to be milled into manageable planks to dry effectively, and although my log appeared to be mostly dry, it would be impossible to know the moisture content until it had been opened.

Step 2: Find the side of the level

For this project, we want a length that can stand straight when resting on its end.

This assumes that the log you choose is mostly straight and has ends that are cut unevenly. Chances are, the log you find isn't going to have an evenly cut top and bottom, but we can fix that.

The band saw is a great tool for squaring up ends. To do this, we will need to find the flattest section along the side of the trunk.

Once you have found the straightest section of your log, rotate the log so that the straight section is facing up.

Step 3: Place the Plywood Sled

A square piece of 3/4″ plywood was attached to the flatter, straighter section of the log.

The plywood will act as a sled when we push it through the band saw and will be the reference point that we will match the log to.

My piece of square plywood was slightly smaller than the length of the log, which will allow the sled to pass close to the bandsaw blade, but not have the blade cut into the sled.

Step 4: Attach the miter track

The miter track on the saw kit is a track that is mounted parallel to the cutting blade.

Miter sleds are great for squaring up cuts on the bandsaw or table saw, but for the log I'm using it's too big to fit on conventional miter sleds.

I cut a piece of wood the same thickness as the miter gauge, making sure the height of that wood was level with the bandsaw table.

I placed the log and sled assembly on the saw table with the end of the log in the path of the band saw blade, then squared the edge of the sled to the edge of the saw table, and then nailed the miter track to the bottom of the sled.

Step 5: Cut one end of the trunk

Once the sled is attached to the miter fence, the log can be passed through the band saw to square the end.

Step 6: Flip the miter track to the other side

After squaring up one end, I removed the miter track and rotated the sled to trim the other end.

Aligning the uneven end in the path of the bandsaw blade, I square the sled back to the edge of the table and nail the miter track of the wood to the bottom of the sled. Then he passed the log through the b

Step 7: Cut the square lid

To make a box top, we will need to make an even cut from one of the square ends.

Band the miter track and move it down about an inch, square the sled and run it through the band saw to make an even cut in the log and create a disc section of wood.

This will be the top of the box.

Step 8: Draw the inner circle

Using a compass, draw a circle in the center of the log, leaving about an inch of outside of the log.

Step 9: Cut the interior with the band saw

The band saw I used is 16″ deep, so I was able to cut this log on the band saw with the guard moved up.

Placing the log upright on the table, I carefully entered the log on one side and slowly moved the log across the blade following the marked line, rotating the log as it crossed the blade.

Due to internal tension in the log, the wood can bind to the blade.

This can cause a lot of friction and catch the blade inside the log, or bind and break the blade. I made some wooden wedges and placed them along the incision to prevent the trunk from binding.

Going slowly to avoid accidents, this cut lasted about 10 minutes.

Step 10: Remove the core

After cutting the entire trunk, carefully remove the blade through the entrance of the incision. With the shims inserted, the core should protrude.

The trunk should now have 3 main components:

The solid core, the upper disc section and the hollowed-out frame of the trunk.

Step 11: Glue

To close the hollow trunk section, glue was spread on the entrance incision and then ratchet straps were used to close the gap.

I used a long bar clamp to level the ends that had deflected a little due to internal stress.

Let dry overnight.

Step 12: Cut the bottom of the core

A one-inch section of the solid core was removed, which will be used to seal the bottom of the box.

Step 13: Glue the bottom base

The cut section of the solid core can be glued to the bottom of the hollowed log.

To account for wood removed from the band saw notch, a strip of wood was used to wedge between the inside of the hollow log and the cut section of the solid core.

Step 14: Sand the top and interior

Once all the glue was dry, I used 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the inside and remove any dried glue from the top and bottom of the hollow log.

Step 15: Placement of pivoting dowels

To support the top of the rotating lid, I added a pin that will serve as the axis of rotation.

I marked on the top of the hollow log where the pin should go and then drilled a shallow opening for the pin.

Since I wanted the top of the box to be removable, I didn't glue the peg in place.

Step 16: Drill Pivot Hole

Using a drill with a bit the same size as the dowel, I drilled a 1/2″ shallow opening in the top of the hollow log.

Step 17: Pin for the lid

To transfer the position of the pin from the stump to the top, you can use a bar center marking tool.

These cheap discs are inserted into their opening with the pin pointing up, align their pieces and press down on the pin which transfers the center to the contact surface.

I am pointing at the transfer mark with my finger on the image.

Step 18: Drill the Dowel Hole for the Lid

Once the location has been marked, use the same drill bit to drill the corresponding shallow opening in the bottom of the box top.

Step 19: Cut the Pin to Length

The pin was cut to the desired length and then inserted into the top.

Leave both sides unglued for now while we work on the top.

Step 20: Try the Top Swing Action

With the top part of the box we can test the pivot action. By leaving the peg untied, we can freely rotate the top when placed on top of the box.

To help with rotation, we will add wax inside the opening later.

Step 21: Slot Template

A slot is added to the top section that will allow cards and other small wishes to pass through.

I started by routing a pattern onto thin plywood, and then used it as a template on the top section of the box.

Since there wasn't much to hold the template without interfering with the router, I used double-sided tape to attach the template to the registration section.

Step 22: Well-made groove

Run the slot in several passes to reduce and make a nice clean slot opening.

I paused between passes to vacuum up the wood chips and inspect the cut.

Step 23: Smooth Out Any Rough Edges

Place the top back into the recessed section and check if everything works smoothly.

Then spend a few minutes sanding any rough edges and prepare the surfaces for staining.

Step 24: Drill the magnet cavities

To help register the pivoting top, I used two strong neodymium magnets.

A drill bit of the same diameter was used to make a shallow opening for a magnet.

Step 25: Position of the magnet cavity

Using the same pin center marking tool, transfer over the position of the magnet cavity to the mating surface.

My finger points to the indentation left from the transfer.

Step 26: Opening for the magnet

Drill the corresponding magnet opening in the bottom of the top of the box.

Step 27: Epoxy Magnets in Place

To hold the magnets in place, I used a 2 part epoxy.

Step 28: Sanding

Using 120 grit sandpaper I smoothed out all flat surfaces, you can go up to a smoother finish if you wish.

Step 29: Sealing

After sanding, I wiped on a few coats of Danish oil to bring out the color of the wood. I think it looks rich and surprising.

I cleaned the top and bottom of the pivoting top, and everything inside the hollowed-out trunk.

Step 30: Test finished

With the magnets glued in place and coats of Danish oil applied, you can test the action of the top.

You can see the upper trunk in place when the magnets get closer.

You can now glue the pivot pin into the top of the register box.

Leaving it unpeeled on the bottom will allow you to remove the top completely later, and twist the top.

To soften the pivot action you can apply a small amount of wax to the peeled opening at the top.

Step 31: Heart Template

With the box functionally complete, I moved on to decorating the exterior. I printed a heart shape on my computer printer and glued it to a flat section on the outside of the log.

Step 32: Tape and Chisel Template

Using a sharp chisel, I hammered out the outline of the heart.

Once the outline was traced, I removed the paper template and worked around the outline a few more times to separate the bark from the bare wood, then used the chisel to lift the bark into the outline.

Since my wood was still a little "green", I let the opening dry overnight.

Step 33: Clean up the edges of the cutout

Once the heart shape was completely dry, I cleaned up the rough edges with sandpaper and then sanded the heart-shaped surface.

Step 34: Add letters

You can use any font or design you want inside the heart shape, I chose letters to spell names.

These letters were cut on a laser cutter, but stamped or die-cut designs would also work well.

I think anything with some depth definition will really work with this project.

Step 35: Adhesive letters

To stick my lyrics to the record, I used my favorite adhesive, E6000. This unites anything to anything, it's like magic.

A small drop of glue was applied to the paback rte of each letter, then carefully arranged inside the heart shape and left to dry overnight.

Step 36: Ready!

Your natural letter box is set and ready to collect letters, receipts and well wishes as part of your wedding or other event or whatever you like.

The top of the box opens to reveal a very spacious interior.

Maybe after the event the top can be removed and the hollowed out section used as a planter in your garden? Everything depends on yourself. Greetings!

Learn more at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more Rustic Trunk Shaped Card Storage Box.

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