Storage Cabinet with Blinds for Living Rooms! 2026

Storage Cabinet with Blinds for Living Rooms is a timeless and traditional design that can fit into most homes.

This was a pretty complex project in some areas, but it was worth it and if you're on this site, I think you might as well do it.

Step 1: Draw it

I start each project by drawing it.

Some use programs like SketchUp to design their projects, which is great, and maybe one day I'll get around to it, but I really enjoy drawing my pieces by hand.

I will also use red oak and plywood.

Step 2: The casing

I designed this project to evenly distribute the weight of a large television. You can certainly spot a cheap cabinet by sagging in the middle after years of use.

When I build most of my projects, I use sockets and rabbits, but with the design and structure of this piece, pocket hole joinery will work just fine.

To help keep my cabinet in a square position, I tried to build most of it on my workbench because I know it is much flatter than my garage floor.

The first shelf is quite wide, so I measured my marks and placed my quick clamps right on the lines and rested my first shelf on them so I could tighten the screws.

Measure twice, glue and screw.

Once I screwed in my first shelf, I measured the vertical dividers for my internal cabinet and screwed them in. I used my small frame square to help keep everything straight.

I also measured the total width distance and divided by three to find my exact divider locations.

Now that the main cabinet was built, I went ahead and attached the legs (process not shown). I cut pieces of 4x4 plywood, glued and nailed them in the 4 corners, then screwed the legs together.

Step 3: Face Frame

Once the case was assembled, I had everything I needed to make my face frame. The pocket hole is here too.

Always use your pocket holes on the end grain side of your pieces. Because the final grain doesn't stick well. Pocket screws pull the end grain toward the long grain.

I'm sure Google can explain/prove this a bit more in case you think I'm a wise man.

Putting on the face helped bring this thing to life. I applied glue, fastened the front frame, then used my nail gun to attach it, then screwed in the case screws to help hold the front frame.

I used pocket screws in places that would be covered by the top and hidden underneath. I didn't want you to open a door and see my secrets.

Step 4: Cut

I knew what kind of trim I wanted, but I couldn't find it anywhere, so I used my homemade router table to shape mine. Here I also used red oak.

I applied the cut to the top and bottom.

I wasn't totally happy with the way the legs were tucked in, so I found a way to have the legs stick out a little more towards the corners for the sake of proportion.

Step 5: The doors – Structure

For the doors, I will make open slots. This will leave a clean opening in the middle de the doors so that the shutters can be made in the next step.

I placed the boards on the table saw and cross cut the depth of my tenon using my sled.

To cut the rest of the tenon material, I made a template to achieve consistent cuts. You can find out how to build one of these on Google and YouTube.

After they were all cut, each piece still needed to be cleaned with the chisel due to the small bumps left by the blade. This was the front part.

I used my template for the mortises as well. They had a perfect fit, but not too tight. This leaves room for the glue.

I dry the pieces and place them on the doors to make sure there is enough room for the hinges and switches. All good.

Once perfect, I rounded the edges of the doors.

Step 6: The Doors – Shutters

Now for the most tedious part of the entire project.

With the doors, I plan to make working shutters. There really is no cheap way to order pre-made custom blinds. The cheapest way is to do it yourself.

I wanted the shutters to be removable in case it broke along the way. (kids...) If one breaks, I'd hate to have to break a door, so I made a chassis.

First I needed to route the rabbits on the back of the doors so that the side bars would fit into the hole. The side bars will hold the shutters.

Now to make the side rails. I didn't photograph the process of cutting 1/2″ by 1/2″ strips from the red oak because it was a scary process on the table saw. I still have all my fingers.

Once the pieces were cut, I cut them along the radial saw.

Once the strips were cut, I rounded them on the band saw to match the router hook on the doors.

Rounding rather than square with the doors with a chisel was simply a preference.

Now to drill the holes. This took some time to space and measure.

They make jigs, but I don't see myself doing this often, so I can't justify buying something that will collect sawdust most of the year.

Once measured, I was able to remove everything with the drill.

I have the small pieces of equipment. These little pieces were a necessity for me.

I also ordered long strips of wood. I thought about making the shutters out of red oak.

Here is the 'exploded' view before montage.

After the first door was together, I put it on the closet. It's finally coming to life.

To keep all the shutters aligned, I installed a vertical bar that they clip onto. This controls the open and closed movement of the blinds.

I thought that would help add dimension to the doors, so I made it visible on the front of the doors instead of the back, hidden inside the cabinet.

Each shutter should have a small hole drilled in the middle of one edge and corresponding holes drilled inthe bar.

This cabinet has been in use for over a year by customers and the only complaint on this entire cabinet is the small clips that connect the vertical bar to the blinds.

Nothing is broken, but the clips can be easily removed (kids...) when torn off. A better option may be something that actually screws on instead of a spring fit that clips use.

Step 7: Finishing

Now that all the blinds are cut and installed, it's time to hang the doors.

I put shims around the doors to hold them down while I marked my pilot holes. I was lucky. Every door closed perfectly.

Now dismantle everything to putty and sand for the finish.

Once the doors and cabinet were done, I cleaned the cabinet with wood conditioner. This soaks into the wood for even staining.

This generally prevents the wood from accepting and retaining the stain in some areas creating stains.

The only parts I didn't condition were the blinds.

I liked how the stain soaked into the wood without it.

The following image shows a comparison between conditioned and unconditioned lime tree. The fund is not conditioned.

The stain was a beast. I only used one coat of stain on everything and 2 coats of polyurethane sanding with 220 between them.

Once everything was stained and polyurethane, it felt really good to put everything back together.

Step 8: The Doors – Hardware

Drilling holes for door handles is quite easy.

The most important thing is to avoid too much blowout.

The best way to avoid explosions is to hold a piece of scrap metal as a backup so the drill can continue without a care in the world.

Step 9: Done

I hope you enjoyed the process.

Get more information at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more bedroom storage Cabinet with Blinds for Living Rooms.

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