English wine has gone from a joke to world-class in just 30 years, with Kent emerging as a premier region for sparkling wine. The transformation is nowhere more evident than at Domaine Evremond, a vineyard in Chilham where French champagne house Taittinger owns 51% of the Pinot Meunier vines. This Anglo-French partnership symbolizes the rise of an industry once dismissed as amateur.
The Remarkable Rise of English Wine
In his 2023 book Vines in a Cold Climate, drinks writer Henry Jeffreys chronicles this meteoric rise. He notes that English wine has evolved "from a joke to world-class in 30 years." The book opens with a scene of vine-planting at Domaine Evremond in May 2017, capturing the muddy, rain-soaked determination of early pioneers. Among them was Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, an anglophile whose family champagne house saw potential in England's chalky soils.
The vineyard is named after Charles de Saint-Évremond, an exiled French aristocrat who introduced champagne to England. His hedonistic spirit lives on in the wines produced here, which now rival traditional champagne in quality and character.
Domaine Evremond: A Taste of Excellence
During a recent visit, host Hilary Sharp led a tour through rows of Pinot Meunier grapes, their vines stretching toward the flint-and-limestone tower of Chilham church. "England is now the most exciting wine region," she declared. The visitor centre, opened last year, offers tastings of Domaine Evremond's Edition I—a creamy, citrussy fizz that exemplifies the region's potential. Sipped al fresco beside a Land Rover and crab apple windbreak, it's easy to see why English sparkling wine is gaining international acclaim.
Why English Sparkling Wine Competes with Champagne
The secret lies in geology and climate. Southern England shares the same chalky subsoil as the Champagne region of France, and climate change has made its growing conditions increasingly favourable. This terroir, combined with French expertise, has propelled English wine to world-class status.
| Factor | Champagne, France | Kent, England |
|---|---|---|
| Soil | Chalk and limestone | Chalk and limestone |
| Climate | Continental, warming | Maritime, warming |
| Key Grapes | Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier | Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier |
| Annual Production | ~300 million bottles | ~10 million bottles |
While production volumes differ vastly, the quality gap has narrowed dramatically. English vineyards like Domaine Evremond are winning awards and converting skeptics.
Key Takeaways for Wine Enthusiasts
- English wine has transformed from a joke to world-class in three decades.
- Kent's chalky soils and warming climate are ideal for sparkling wine.
- French champagne houses like Taittinger are investing heavily in English vineyards.
- Domaine Evremond's visitor centre offers tastings and tours.
- English sparkling wine now competes with champagne on quality.
Visiting Kent's Vineyards: What to Expect
A trip to Kent's wine country offers more than just tastings. The region boasts picturesque villages, historic sites, and rolling countryside. Domaine Evremond, with its state-of-the-art visitor centre, provides an immersive experience where you can learn about the winemaking process and sample award-winning fizz.
Other notable vineyards in Kent include Chapel Down, Biddenden, and Gusbourne, each with its own character and offerings. Many offer tours, tastings, and dining options, making for a perfect day out.
FAQ
Is English wine really world-class?
Yes, English sparkling wines, particularly from Kent and Sussex, have won numerous international awards and are often compared favourably to champagne. The combination of chalky soils and a warming climate has elevated quality significantly.
What makes Domaine Evremond special?
Domaine Evremond is a joint venture between Taittinger, a prestigious French champagne house, and English investors. It produces premium sparkling wine using traditional methods and offers a state-of-the-art visitor centre for tastings and tours.
Can I visit vineyards in Kent?
Absolutely. Many Kent vineyards, including Domaine Evremond, Chapel Down, and Gusbourne, welcome visitors for tours and tastings. It's advisable to book in advance, especially during peak seasons.
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