Coffee Table with X Legs 2026

Today I decided to make a coffee table with X legs, it has an industrial touch, but I kept the original design. I modified it to a full length shelf where you can hide remotes, magazines, coasters or whatever, and added a black iron pipe as a cross leg support for a better modern industrial finish.

The overall dimensions of the table are 47x22x17.

Steps to make a coffee table with X legs:

Step 1: Tools and materials

Here are the tools and materials I used for this coffee table.

Materials:

• (2) 2x4x8
• (1) 1x6x6
• (4) 1x6x8
• Black iron pipe
• Pipe nozzles
• (2) Couplings
• (2) End caps
• (50) 1-¼ Pocket Screws
• Wood conditioner
• Wood finish
• Polyurethane
• Danish oil
• Wood glue
• Wood filling

Tools:

• Table saw
• Miter Saw
• Pocket hole template
• Orbital sander
• Drill
• Clamps
• Putty knife
• 1 inch shovel
• Finishing Applicator Pads
• High density foam brush

Step 2: Assemble the panels

• First you will need to make two panels, each made up of four 1×6 boards. Start by pre-drilling pocket holes along the edge of 3 of the 4 boards that will be used to form the board and shelf. Place the first pocket hole about 2-3 inches from one end of the boards, then space the pocket holes every 6-8 inches.
• Once all the holes are pre-drilled, lay the 4 boards flat, edge to edge, to form a panel. Apply some glue and use clamps to hold them together tightly, making sure to check that the ends are square.
• With the clamps tight (don't overdo it, or the boards will bend) secure the boards with 1 ¼ pocket screws.
• Be sure to clean the squeezed material while the glue is still wet with a scraper or a damp paper towel.
• Repeat the same process for the second panel.

Step 3: Assemble the box

• To make things easier, I sanded both assembled panels at this point, as it will be difficult once the table is assembled. I sanded to 120 grit, then 220 grit using my orbital sander. I also sanded the 2 pieces that will make up the sides.
• Before assembling the box that will form the table, you will want to pre-drill pocket holes at each end of the top and bottom panels.
• Place the panel you want to use as the table top face down, with the table flat against your workbench (you should see the pocket holes). Use clamps to secure the 2 side pieces to each end, first apply glue. Secure with 1 ¼ screws in pre-drilled holes.
• Next, add the bottom shelf (again upside down), attach and secure with pocket screws.

Step 4: Fix imperfections

• Once the box is built, move forward and flip it up. If you see any gaps, fill them with some wood filler (or wood glue mixed with sawdust).
• The last step is to sand the top and edges to 220 grit.

Step 5: Build the X legs

• For the legs, I used 2x4s that I cut to 3 inches with my table saw. I started by shaving ¼ inch on one side, then ¼ inch on the opposite side. This eliminates rounded edges and gives the boards a clean, modern look.
• I set my miter saw to 45° and cut all my pieces to size using a stop block for accuracy and repeatability. You will have 4 longer and 4 shorter pieces cut in half.
• The glue is the hard part. I decided to glue one side of the legs at a time. I used smaller clamps vertically to align the boards vertically, and larger clamps to hold the leg to my work table. I used wood glue and let it sit for 30 minutes before flipping the legs over and repeating the process on the other side.
• Once the glue was dry, I filled any gaps using stable wood filler and a putty knife. I let it dry for a couple of hours.
• Before moving on to finishing, I pre-drilled some pocket holes at the top of the X's on the inside face. These will be used to later attach the legs to the table.

Step 6: Finishing

• Rather than wait until the end, I chose to stain the table and legs at this point, thinking it would save me some headaches down the line.
• After vacuuming up all the sawdust and cleaning all the parts, I applied wood conditioner and let it sit for about 30 minutes. I find that the conditioner helps the stain penetrate the pine wood better and prevents stains.
• Then I applied Minwax wood stain to the entire table and legs.

Step 7: Assemble the black iron tube

• I had my black iron pipe cut to size and threaded at a local hardware store, but you may be able to buy them off the shelf where you live.
• You will need to find the center of the X on each leg and drill a hole using a 1-inch spade bit. I used adhesive tape to prevent the tea from escaping.
• Screw an end cap onto each of the pipe nipples. Screw a coupling onto each end of the longer pipe. Slide the tubing nipple through the X leg and connect it to the other end of the coupling. Repeat for the second stage. Press.

Step 8: Assembly

• With the base and top assembled, all that remains is to connect the two together. Center the base under the table and secure with 1 ¼ pocket screws.

Step 9: Finished Work

This coffee table with X legs will be perfect to surprise your guests without a doubt.

• To finish this project, you will need to seal the wood with a finish of your choice. I was feeling a little lazy, so I just rubbed a couple of coats of natural danish oil all over the table,except at the top. I used 3 coats of polyurethane varnish for the top as it will likely be exposed to moisture and liquids.

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