Floating Concrete Circular Staircase, this unique circular staircase does not have a central support (not the guide). Its 24 steps allow for a 12' rise on a 10' diameter circular staircase. I designed a sketch with the help of my son.
Circular stairs generally need a center support, but I wanted to have an open center, so I designed this one to cantilever from the wall, leaving a 3′ open center.
To accurately form the wall and steps, I cut a dozen 5′-1/6 from 3/4″
Rotating the same boards around the pipe gave us the vertical shapes to pour the actual steps into the ramp.
Step 1: Planning

By drawing it in sketch, it was possible to calculate the rise and run of the staircase, the placement of the rebar and the placement of the step.
Step 2: Structure before the staircase



The circular wall supporting the stairs is made of 5″ foam blocks that leave a 3″ vertical and horizontal void for concrete and rebar. I also used them for most of the walls in the house.
The bars to support the steps had to be placed in this wall when it was built, so I needed to know exactly where to place them so that each step would have a rebar in tension outside the wall.
By drawing this staircase in 3D (sketchup), you could place the bars exactly.
We poured the ramp and steps after 6 months of the wall being built.
Step 3: Lowering and circular support beam

Because the steps ran 360 degrees, the descent had to support both the staircase and the floor above. We formed a 1/2 circular beam on the floor and lifted it to pour the entire circular beam.
Half of the beam was on the wall, and the half you see supports the floor.
Step 4: Forming the spiral ramp




To accurately form the wall and stairs, I used 20′ 2″ steel electrical conduit conduit as a temporary center post.
I used a 2″ bolt tied through the end of the 6″ wide plywood to make sure the wall was round.
Same boards stacked and turned to form the bottom support for a foam/fiberglass form we made by fitting a 1″ board to the warped shape needed, then fiberglass. We made two sections, glazed on both sides with epoxy resin.
Step 5: Pour ramp



Rebar is added to the bars coming out of the wall, and an internal form of 1/4″ plywood is added to the inside.
- The ramp was poured in 3 sections, glued to the joints with latex concrete adhesive. This allows us to reuse the fiberglass and support forms by simply turning the plywood boards and securing them in place.
- The concrete had a very high strength, it was mixed on site using a super plasticizer to reduce the water content.
- All concrete was consolidated with a vibrator
- The ramp is 3 inches thick. You can see the "U" bars sticking out. They give a physical block to the steps that pour below.
Step 6: Rule #1
In a project as large as this, it is important to break it down into smaller parts, like an instruction. Then you can enjoy the successes that keep you going.
Step 7: Esteps

The ramp support shapes rotate towards the top of the ramp and become vertical shapes.
Because the forms stack on top of each other in the main tube, all I had to do was level them and put them on my marks on the wall that came from the schematic drawing from the previous year.
Step 8: Final result

A plaster finish on the wall and you have a solid staircase, with less than 1/8″ of deviation between going up and down the step. Greetings!
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