Tutorial to Build a Unique Style Kitchen Cutting Board! 2026

Tutorial to Build a Unique Style Kitchen Cutting Board, cutting boards are a great skill builder for woodworkers. I like to do them from time to time and I like to challenge myself. My wife also makes some very interesting cutting boards, like the one in this instruction booklet.

Tools:

• Table saw
• Wood router
• 1/4″ straight drill bit and guide
• Clamps
• Random orbital sander
• 14″ or larger band saw
• Wood scraper

Tools:

• Garlopa
• Sander

Step 1: Use caution!

Power tools are dangerous We chose not to remove any guards when creating this. Some operations may be obscured somewhat by safety equipment, but it is very important to use safety equipment supplied by the tool manufacturer. Additionally, personal protective equipment such as safety glasses, hearing protection, and dust masks are required for certain operations. If you have active dust collection equipment, use it whenever possible.

Never wear gloves, jewelry, or loose clothing around power tools!

Step 2: Prepare your wood

Here is the wood that will be used. Rough sawn board, was planed and cross cut to rough length

Step 3: Flat Edge

After parsing, you need a square reference edge. Join an edge at the seam.

Step 4:

Once joined, the hinged edge is placed against the table saw fence and the other edge is cut. This ensures that your edges are parallel to each other

Step 5: Wood into smaller strips

Due to wood's natural tendencies to warp and shift, I like to work with thinner pieces. Especially on something like a cutting board that gets wet frequently.

Step 6:

Here is my collection of 2″ strips. The board will be 12 inches wide so there are 6 2 inch strips

Step 7: Glue and Clamps

Now is the time to unite them. On the table, spread the clamps and bend the boards. Apply glue to all edges at the same time. Once complete, spread the glue evenly with a silicone brush. A basting brush sold in the kitchen utensils section of your grocers works great for this. Since this is a cutting board, it uses a waterproof adhesive approved by the FDA for food contact.

Step 8: Clamps

Apply even clamping pressure from the top and bottom. Wait about 20 minutes for the glue to dry a little and then remove the squeezing.

Step 9: Time for cleaning

After several hours in the clamps, remove the board and apply glue. Follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding clamping time and take into account the temperature and humidity level of your work area.

Step 10: Brushing the board

After applying the glue, use a planer to flatten it. Be careful in the initial preparation and cutting, as well as in clamping, so only one pass through the brush was needed. This can also be accomplished with a larger hand plane (Number 6 and above) or a sander. It is very important to have a perfectly flat surfacea on both sides.

Step 11: Borders

Square up the edges of the table saw with a crosscut sled

Step 12: Prepare your template

A 1/2 inch sheet of MDF is used. MDF is a great stencil material because it sands very easily. Draw your pattern directly on the MDF

Step 13: Create your template

Cut the template on your band saw with a 1/4 inch wide blade. After that, use the spindle sander to clean up the rough edges left by the band saw and refine the shape a bit. Since MDF sands easily, a 120-grit drum is recommended.

Step 14: Apply your template

Decide where you would like the stripes to cross and clamp your template to the workpiece.

Step 15: Prepare your Immersion Router

I'm using a 1/4″ straight bit and a 1/4″ guide. Some may wonder why I don't just cut the band saw curve like I did with the template. Since I am adding 1/4 inch strips, you need to remove 1/4″ of material from the board. Otherwise, when you insert the inlay strips, the profile will no longer match on both sides and you will have an ugly ill-fitting joint.

Step 16: Router

With the guide bushing against the template, score a 3/8″ deep slot. However, don't go at all times.

Step 17: Band Saw Center Slice

It doesn't have to be exactly in the middle, but leave a little bit of material on each side and be very careful not to cut into the groove formed by the Router.

Step 18: Prepare your Router again

Step 19: Clean the edges

Clamp the board to a flat surface with the rough edge left by the band saw on top. Set the depth of your Router so that the bearing slides in the slot we cut with the first operation. With the heading in that slot, travel the profile of the curve. The bearing will prevent you from cutting past the pattern, and the cutter will remove the excess left by the band saw. Do this on each half of the board.

Step 20: Prepare your strips

I'm using maple and bloodwood. You will need 4 (four) 1/16″ strips per inlay. Because ripping a thin board is traditionally impossible, a “thin ripping jig” was made. These are available in the market. Allows you to set a constant distance for cutting piece and make very thin strips as shown below possible.

Step 21: Back to the clamps

Apply glue to the curved edges of your board. Arrange the strips in the pattern you want and apply glue to them as well. Place them in the clamps between the two pieces of your cutting board and snap them together. Go slow and make sure the curves and edges line up. You will see that it really fits very easily.

Step 22:

After holding it overnight, I cleaned off the fouling streaks with a small hand plane. Once it has been cleaned, reapply your stencil and repeat steps 14 to 22.

Step 23: Time to finish it!

After repI removed the steps and made another inlay, I cleaned the second one with the plane again

Step 24: Perimeter profiles

I like to round the edges of my cutting boards. Not only does it add a nice aesthetic touch, but it eliminates sharp edges that can chip later.

Step 25: Time to sand

Use from 80 grain to 400 grain. Make sure you don't skip sanding grits in between. You probably have scratch marks. As this will only look oiled and will not have a film manufacturing finish, it is important that the board is really smooth.

Step 26: Ready for the end!

After sanding, wipe the board to remove dust. Do not use water as it will raise the grain and require sanding again.

Step 27: Apply the mineral oil finish

Apply mineral oil to cutting boards. The finish should be food safe and easy to reapply. Mineral oil fits those qualifications quite well. Pour a little and let it soak. Once completely oiled, use beeswax. Beeswax gives you a little more protection and adds a lot of shine.

Step 28: Be creative!

You have many possibilities with different wood species and configurations. Have fun and enjoy!

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