Birch Headboard with Secret Compartments and More…! 2026

Birch Headboard with Secret Compartments and More... The headboard is basically a narrow cabinet with wooden front panels, with the following features:

• The two side panels are actually doors that open outward to reveal shelf space.
• The center panel is great for leaning on while watching TV or reading in bed.
• There is built-in adjustable ambient lighting.
• There are also three built-in secret compartments!

Keep reading to see how you can make your own headboard!

Step 1: Secret compartments

There are three secret compartments built into the lower section of the headboard (one behind each of the two doors and a larger compartment in the middle).

Step 2: Lighting

Mood lighting is provided by a dimmable RGB LED strip.

It is a plug-and-play strip, so no soldering required.

Okay, let's build this!

Step 3: Sides

This case design starts with the design of the side pieces.

These started out as two 48″x8″ pieces of 5/8″ (about 16mm) thick Baltic birch plywood, which were cut with a table saw.

These were cut according to the measurements in the second photo on a band saw. They were then clamped and sanded to remove any noticeable irregularities.

All dimensions of this headboard cover were chosen to match the height of our queen mattress, which sits on a frame I made previously.

The bed frame is a basic platform frame similar to dozens found online, but with a surrounding skirt made of birch plywood.

Several design and measurement considerations were made to accommodate the inclusion of an old mirror we had, which is 36″x30″.

I worked around these dimensions so I wouldn't have to worry about cutting the mirror.

Step 4: Prepare all the pieces that will make up the header

Several rails were prepared running between the side panels of the last step, some from 5/8″ plywood and some from 3/8″ plywood (approximately 10mm), depending on how strong I felt the pieces needed to be.

All rails are 60″ long, which is the width of our mattress.

This works great, since the birch plywood I usually buy comes in 60″x60″ sheets.

Several burr cuts were made on the rails and side pieces with a table router to accommodate the mirror and back panel pieces.

Where necessary, the ends of the grooves were made with a sharp chisel.

I roughed up all the desired edges with a little rounding on my router table, and then lightly sanded all the pieces to prepare them for assembly.

This step in the process required a lot of careful planning, measuring and cutting to ensure that I was creating pieces that would all come together as desired.

Step 5: Assemble the frame

I was tempted to use pocket screws for this, butin this case I didn't feel precise or confident enough for what I wanted. Also, I thought it would be fun to have outlets on the side of the headboard.

All rails were glued and screwed to the side boards through pre-drilled and countersunk holes.

These holes were then plugged with pieces of glued tenon.

See photo notes for dimensions of the various rails.

Step 6: Add Bottom

A 3/8″ thick bottom panel was glued and nailed in place to create the bottom of the headboard.

Step 7: Assemble and install the shelves

The shelves and upright supports were partially assembled outside, using glue and nail gun nails.

These were then glued and nailed into place inside the header.

The clamps were used to ensure a good tight fit while nailing the shelf assemblies into place.

Step 8: Build the secret compartments

Secret compartments are 6 inches deep.

The tops of these are flush with the top of the mattress and have no visible handles or hinges.

There are no visible signs of its existence (especially if the cabinet-style front panel doors are closed and the removable panel is in place).

They open by simply pressing the inch or so back of the eyelids, and they pop open.

I'll be honest... I'm so proud of how they turned out! The following steps show how these were made.

Step 9: Make the compartment covers

The tops are made from pieces of 3/8″ thick plywood.

Two 1 1/2″ square blocks made of 5/8″ thick plywood were glued and precisely nailed 1 1/4″ from the back edge of each panel, flush with the sides.

Lids are approximately 7″ front to back.

Before the blocks were attached to the boards, each block was drilled through the center with a 9/64″ drill bit.

This was done on a drill press to ensure that the holes were perpendicular to the faces of the blocks.

Simple hinges will be created by installing pieces of 1/8″ metal rod through these blocks and through the walls of the headboard box.

Step 10: Create Front Support Strips

The front edge of the compartment lids should have a support to rest on.

These were made with strips of plywood that were glued and nailed together with brads.

All strips were installed at precisely the same height using the same two blocks of wood to position the nailing strips.

With the support strips in place, lines were drawn with a square along the sides and vertical support pieces of the shelf, to be level with the top of the front rail.

These lines will act as guides to help locate the tops of the lids when setting and drilling the hinge pins.

Step 11: Mark and Drill for Hinge Pins

The lids were held in place with the lids aligned with the marks made in the last step.

A piece of 1/8″ metal rod was placed in the hinge blocks and tapped with a hammer to make an indentation in the walls to drill the hinge holes.

A block of scrap metal was drilled with the drill press to use as a guide to ensure that the hinge holes were drilled as close to the hole as possible.e perpendicular to adjacent wood faces.

The notches were additionally drilled with a nail set to assist in drilling, and 1/8″ holes were drilled with the aid of the guide block.

The hinge holes on the sides of the headboard box were carefully drilled to a measured depth so as not to puncture the exterior walls, while the holes in the vertical mantel support pieces were drilled directly.

Step 12: Install the Hinge Pins

Additional pieces of 1/8″ rod were cut and installed through the hinge blocks and headboard box walls.

Step 13: Some adjustments

The back edges of the covers needed to be trimmed a little so they wouldn't meet the rear case panels once they were installed.

The caps were removed and trimmed on the table saw.

The front edges of each lid were a little tight, so some material was removed as well.

Step 14: Additions to the Longer Middle Cap

An angled strip of wood was glued and nailed along the front edge of the middle eyelid piece to act as a support for the bottom edge of the removable front panel to be made later.

I also added another strip of wood to the bottom rear edge of this lid to remove some of the camber/camber that was in the board.

Step 15: Finished Header

Here is the complete case, ready to be finished.

Step 16: Finishing

An oil-based finish was used.

This was followed by two coats of shellac with light sanding with 220 sandpaper between coats, and then the final coat. Everything was polished with furniture wax paste.

Step 17: Add panels

Two panels were made and finished the same way as the rest of the headboard so that they fit on either side of the mirror.

To hold the mirror in place, additional strips of thin material were glued to the sides of the wood panels (see photo 3.)

The panels were then screwed to the back of the case with small screws in pre-drilled and countersunk holes.

Step 18: Final Assembly

Small, thin washers were glued in place with contact cement on the outside of the hinge blocks to prevent the edges of the lids from rubbing against the walls of the case.

The lids were replaced over the secret compartments.

I added some simple bumpers to the lids of the secret compartments made from small pieces of black backed craft foam, so the lids closed quietly.

Some stops were also installed to prevent the lids from hitting the back panels or mirror when opened.

In the middle section, these were made from small wooden blocks with rubber glued to the faces, which were screwed into place.

On the side sections, I simply used small screws with shrink tubing over the heads which were screwed into place.

Step 19: Lay out and cut the boards for the front panels

I bought a bunch of knotty alder boards to make the front panels of the headboard. After some thought, I decided to run the boards horizontally, with the grain matching the three panels.

The boards were placed and cut accordingly to create the two side doors and the removable center panel.

The boards were oriented so that any tilt of the suction cup was offset between each board.

These panels were made to extend 2 inches beyond the top and sides of the headboard box.

While an upholstered headboard would have been nice (as we sit and lean on it almost daily while watching TV and movies in bed), we ultimately opted for bare wood simply because we like the look.

We throw a couple of pillows behind us, and it's quite comfortable. If we ever change our mind and want an upholstered headboard in the case, it would be a pretty simple upgrade to make.

Step 20: Glue Panels

The boards for the panels were glued together using many clamps.

When the boards were dry, the excess glue was scraped off and all panels were sanded through multiple grits until they were smooth enough for my taste.

Step 21: Design and Route Recessed Hinges

I used basic utility hinges to attach the doors to the headboard box.

For the positioning and functionality I wanted, I had to offset an area for the hinges to sit on the back of the wood doors.

This was done with a small palm router after accurately establishing the location of the hinges.

For the next steps, you will notice that the doors and center panel were completely installed and fitted to the shell, tightened, and then removed again, all before finishing and final assembly.

Step 22: Install the hinges on the doors

The screw locations were marked, drilled with a set of nails, and pre-drilled. The hinges were then attached to the doors.

Step 23: Install the doors

The doors were placed in the box and the position of the hinge screws were drilled. The screws had to be shortened a little, and then they were installed.

Step 24: Add Magnets to the Center Panel

The top and bottom of the center panel and adjacent locations on the case have several neodymium magnets installed to hold the panel in place.

The locations were carefully marked, drilled with a forced drill bit, and the magnets epoxied in place.

If you do this, make sure the magnets are glued in position so they attract and don't repel each other. Very important!

Step 25: Finish the Front Doors and Center Panel

The doors and center panel were removed and finished with several coats of shellac. They were lightly sanded between coats, and after final coating.

Then they were polished with furniture paste wax.

I decided to go with shellac to make the front panels warm, simple and natural looking.

Step 26: Add keys and keysprotective wings

I added some braces to the center panel to keep it square and flat.

These pieces were installed with just screws (no glue) through holes that were drilled oversized to allow the panel a little acclimation movement if necessary.

Bumper pads made of craft foam with adhesive were added to the center panel as well as the back of the headboard box.

Step 27: Install the LED lights

A dimmable RGB LED strip was installed along the top and sides of the headboard.

The cables were tucked under the bed, and the infrared sensor was positioned to be accessible but out of the way.

This was the easiest step of the entire project!

Step 28: Everything ready

That's all. Thanks for taking a look!

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