Handles for Carrying Concrete Blocks! 2026

Handles for Carrying Concrete Blocks, concrete blocks are very heavy. Yes, they are designed as an efficient building material intended to be maneuvered by hand under normal human power, a feat at which they excel, as evidenced by their ubiquitous proliferation.

But what if you're not a normal human? What if you work in an office all day and have the strength equivalent to only lifting light documents? Or what if you really don't want to strain your wrist and elbows carrying heavy objects because it would interfere with your tennis technique or the fluidity of your dance performance expressions? Or what if you are an OCD engineer and simply must design the most efficient load transfer mechanism throughout your body for each item you take? Or what if you are lazy?

Here we bring a great idea.

Step 1: Think

Man is a tool-making creature, not because he is particularly noble, but because he is lazy, and would prefer that the laws of physics do his job for him, or at least interfere with his desires as little as possible.

But what if there was a way to keep everything online? What if there was a way to grab the block from the top straight line? It would mean removing all secondary stresses from the equation, making the lock much easier to maneuver... But how?

Now, keep in mind that man is not a creature of infinite intelligence, and that thinking requires effort, so he employs another strategy to keep information for himself and minimize his own effort: he draws.

And once an image mysteriously appears that has some feature or meaning, he musters enough strength to get out of his chair and get to work.

Step 2: Materials

• 80″ 3/8″ (#3) rebar and some means to cut it.
• Band saw
• Hand saw
• Grinder
• 4 Rebar rods 24″ lengths 3/8″ (#3)
• 10″ 3/4″ PVC pipe and some means to cut it.
• A long metal pipe or two. I used 1″ EMT conduit at a length of about 6′.
• Vise.
• Zippers. Flanges.
• A welder? This is semi-optional. If you can, do it, but if not, you'll still be fine.

Step 3: Rebar

Rebar is a magical material. As a steel product, its most useful quality is its high tensile strength, so it is used to complement the high compressive strength of cement and aggregate in a reinforced concrete system.  It is more malleable and can be bent into various shapes, retaining much of its strength. Therefore, it is strong and quite easy to work with. That makes it desirable and cheap.

The handles I made were designed for an 8″ thick block with maybe 2″ – 2.5″ clearance for my hand over the top of the block, which can be up to 1.5″ thick. The handle itself will be even with the block (keep things symmetrical, and just to make things easier), so I thought 8″ (supporting surface of the block) + 4″ (bar clearance) + 8″ (grip handle) = 20″. You will need 2 of these for each handle you make. If you make 2 for yourself (since you have 2 hands, and carrying a block in each hand equals the pressure on your body), you will need:

• 4 Rebar 24″ lengths of 3/8″ (#3)

When you get them, cut them to 20″, then mark on the numbers mentioned above (8″ on each end, 4″ in the middle).

Step 4: Rebar – Part II

Take advantage of the rebar. Tie them up. Join them with the traditional locking plastic bands. Joining two sticks together will ensure that they bend consistently with each other. In the press with them. Align your marks with the edge of the vise.

OnceTo get restrained, grab a large bar or other device that can apply a lot of leverage and make you feel like a superman. He proceeds to act like a superman. I recommend bending at a very slight acute angle (when loaded with a block, the bar flexes slightly). Flip and repeat.

If the two curves do not line up correctly in the Z plane, you can rotate the assembly vertically in the vise (so the legs are above and below each other), grab another long bar, and bend the two legs in opposite directions.

Step 5: PVC

I used 3/4″ PVC because the 2 rods of the #3 rebar fit perfectly inside. Sure, but enough room to rotate...

Step 6: A + B = …..

Remove the restraints on the rebar and slide the pipe to the right over a set of curves.

If you don't plan on welding the forks, congratulations! Your work can be considered technically done! When you go to hook a block, you will only have to take half a second to split the forks evenly in the center.

Everything ready? Well. Moving on…

Step 7: Soldering

For this exercise, all you need is just a few thumbtacks up and down to set the angle, plus some small beads on the ends to hold the PVC in place.

Step 8: Beautify (Optional)

Functionally, the operators are now ready to operate. However, two reasons to spend a little extra time finalizing the product:

1.  Psychologically, people are much more inclined to take better care of things that are “finished,” things that show evidence of a little more particular care put into their creation or maintenance. This means they can be treated with a certain degree of respect and last a little longer.
2. Super bright fluorescent orange shows up more easily on a construction site than rust brown and dark gray. Easier to find.

Step 9: Proceed to simulate working

Well, there you have it. Practical and 100% useful! Thanks for reading!

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