LED Lights in the Kitchen: Under Cabinet Lighting, you will learn how to install affordable under cabinet lighting in your home with minimal cost and difficulty by using reasonably priced cold cathode tubes typically used for PC case retrofits. I will do my best to make it clear and easy to follow.
Under Cabinet Lighting

Why?: Previously, when I was preparing food in my mother's kitchen, it was between the ceiling light and her work surface, thus casting a shadow.
Plus, under-cabinet lighting tends to look nice.
It's a dramatic effect in person and has definitely improved the look of the kitchen a lot.
It is less harsh on a person in the light and significantly improved visibility while working in the kitchen.
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Energy cost and usage:
Also, the lights are quite energy efficient, using about 3 watts per light tube (I used 6 pairs / 12 tubes total). Total wattage = 36 watts, or 3 amps at 12V.
This is a little more than half the energy use of a normal 60-watt incandescent bulb.
The final price of your project will vary depending on your supplies and the size of your kitchen.
Step 1: Get the parts



Below are the parts and tools I recommend for this job. You can escape without some or substitute things.
It's a pretty simple job to get this and set it up if you're handy with things and know the basics of electricity.
This project is low voltage for the most part (the wires between the inverter and the lamp are very high voltage, but you don't need to mess with them), but of course, always practice electrical safety and unplug things before touching the wires. TAKE CARE!
Details of some of the parts are listed below.
Parts:
- Cold cathode lights with inverters * (2 light tubes per inverter)
- Power supply (12V DC for these lights)
- Cable to connect the power to the inverters.
- Staples or something else to hold the cables under the cabinet.
- Power switch (optional)
- Inline fuse (optional)
- White paint * (optional)
In the Video it is used:
- Sylvania Lightify
Tools:
- Wire cutters
- Welder
- Welding
- Electrical tape
- Multimeter
Step 2: Prepare for Wiring
The first step is to get power for your investors. Be careful, as you will be working with electricity, although you should try with low voltage. Safety first!
See step 1 for information on part selection.
Power supply:
With the 12V DC power supply disconnected, prepare it by cutting the small DC connector on the output.
If you are very handy with things and have a plug/pin that fits the 12V connector, you can solder a connector like I did, so you can replace the power supply easily.
I found the connector on an old set of computer speakers. Separate the two wires from the output and use a multimeter to check which wire is positive and which is ground. Bookmark this cable for later and unplug the power supply.
NOTE: If it isIf installing this in a caravan or somewhere where 12V DC is already available, you can skip the power supply. DEFINITELY use an inline fuse in this situation to protect your power supply and wiring.
Fuse (optional but recommended):
If you are installing an in-line fuse, connect it in-line on the DC positive lead, near the power source.
It is best to place this near the power source before the switch for safety. This is useful if you run short so the wires don't melt or catch on fire.
Most power supplies include a fuse in them, but an extra one won't hurt you and can also prevent damage to your power supply.
Choose a fuse slightly higher than the maximum current you expect your setup to use.
Switch (optional but recommended):
A switch is useful if you want to be able to easily turn your under cabinet lighting on and off. I used a lamp switch a friend had.
Make sure it is classified appropriately. If your outlet is on a switch, you can use that instead.
You can also just plug and unplug the power supply, but you probably don't want to do that all the time as things can wear out and it would be inconvenient.
Inverter: Point B in the Figure:
Cut any wiring, switches and plugs that go to the INPUT of your inverter, noting which wire is black or connected to the black wire.
This is your land. DO NOT cut the wires that go from the inverter to the lamps.
Step 3: Connecting it all together


- You will want your inverters to be connected in parallel. I soldered all my connections for durability and to decrease resistance. Your connections don't have to be beautiful. This is a simple job of connecting cables.
- Unless your lights are close together, you will have to use additional cables to connect your power supply to each inverter.
- I ran a single line of 2-conductor appliance cord around the kitchen and periodically cut it to splice.
- Connect the wire coming from the ground of your power supply to the ground on all inverters. Connect the positive wire to the switched positive wire.
- Be sure to properly insulate all ground and positive wires from the contact and ensure all connections are tight. You can use the multimeter to check your wiring at this point and then perform a test.
- If things don't turn on immediately, turn it off quickly and unplug everything. Start troubleshooting.
- Visually inspect the connections, use your multimeter to find problems, and enter additional things to narrow down the problem.
- If everything is OK, continue with assembling the lights in the next step.
Step 4: Assembling the lights



Be sure to note how the lights will be visible at different angles. Consider things like different elevations of nearby rooms.
For example, my mother's kitchen is higher than the next room, so while you are in the next room, you are low and can see the pipes.
Also consider where you will place the inverters and routing cables.
Velcro:
- Kits usually come with adhesive-backed Velcro.
- Depending on the surface area under your cabinets, this can work well or fail miserably.
- Under my mother's cabinets, the wood is very rough, so the adhesive can't hold very well.
- On smooth surfaces, the Velcro adhesive sticks very well.
- Peel off the protective paper from one side of the Velcro and stick it to the ends of the light.
- Peel off the backing paper from the other side of the Velcro and stick it under the cabinet, with the desired space.
Step 5: Final Touches




At this point it should look pretty good. However, it has annoying cables hanging in places and lights can be visible. Here are some more ideas on how to improve your settings.
Cable management:
Use staples or other cheap cable management equipment to hold your cable. You can find all kinds of hooks for holding cables at your local hardware store.
I used raised staples with a staple gun and it was quick and easy. Just be careful not to pinch the wires.
Do not use a staple gun that does not leave the staples stuck outside the surface or you must cut the wire.
Hide the lights:
If the lights are visible, there are some ways to hide them and make them more pleasant. You can add some trim to the edge of your cabinets to hide from view, or you can go to your hardware store and find plastic hoods to put over them.
Although my mother is slightly visible from the other room since the kitchen is raised, we chose to leave it as is because it looks great when you are in the kitchen.
Keep the power supply cool:
Be sure to get a power supply that is rated enough for your setup.
Mine is being pushed very hard so it gets quite hot.
It's within limits, but to help it last longer, I tied a wire to a pair of CPU heatsinks with CPU grease to help dissipate the heat.
It seems to remove the heat quite well. Make sure you keep your supply in a ventilated area and don't put things in it.
If you were to do this again, you would get a slightly higher rated supply, so you wouldn't be pushing it as close to its maximum current output.
Greetings!
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