Epoxy Resin Headboard with LED Lights! 2026

Epoxy Resin Headboard with LED Lights, I built an Epoxy headboard with a pair of cherry wood. This was a lot of work, but I'm very happy with the way it turned out.

Materials:

• Cherry wood
• Waterproofing tape
• Silicone caulking
• 1 ¼” screws:
• Epoxy liquid plastic epoxy resin (I used 18L in a 2:1 ratio)
• LED lights with battery
• 2 inch screws
• 4 ½” screws

Tools:

• 15 inch planer:
• Countersink drill bit
• Clamps
• Router
• Sierra
• Sander

Instructions:

The first step in this project was to flatten the cherry slabs, and this was not an easy task. These two slabs were incredibly twisted and I had to remove a ton of material to level them.

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There are many ways to flatten lumber, or you can buy it already flattened depending on where you buy your lumber.

• I used my jointer and planer to flatten them. I started on the jointer, flattening most of one side of the slab with my 8″ capacity jointer. I had to remove the protector to be able to do this, do it at your own risk. Removing the guard allows you to flatten a portion of the bottom surface, you can see some of the bottom of the slab being flattened during this process.
• I attached the MDF piece to the bottom of the slab, attaching it to that flattened section. I used 1 ¼" screws since the bottom of these slabs will never be seen on the final piece, but you could also use double stick tape if it were a display surface.
• With the sled attached, I began passing the slab through the planer. You can see that I had to put a lot of pressure on the back edge of the slab to prevent it from twisting on the planer, and this was because this plate was so twisted. When the twisted material was removed, I no longer needed to press down on that back edge to keep the board flat.
• After removing the sled, I turned the slab over, facing the flattened side toward the deck, and then planed the top of the slab until it was completely flat. I ended up removing about half the thickness of these two slabs during this process, that's how twisted they were. I ended up with a final thickness of about 1 ¼”.
• With the flat slabs, I then needed to clean up the raw edges. The bark was falling off and would have made a mess in the epoxy, so I removed it with a chisel. I then smoothed the edges with my random orbit sander.
• Next, I had to work on the shape for the epoxy pour. I used MDF, since I couldn't find melamine in full sheets at my local home center, but melamine would be another good option here.
• First, I cut the bottom of the form to size, taking into account the thickness of the side walls. I had the home center rip the entire sheet of MDF to size, so I just had to cut it to size at home. If you've never moved a full sheet of MDF, they weigh about a million pounds, so it's really helpful to have the home center break down the entire sheet into more manageable pieces for you.
• Next, I tore off the strips that made up the sides of the shape. I made sure to add about ½” of extra height to the sides to account for any excess epoxy.
• If I left the MDF as it was and poured the epoxy, the MDF would absorb the epoxy, so I needed to create a waterproof barrier on the MDF. I used the liner tape for this. I only needed one strip for the sides, and after adding the strip, I used the side of a screwdriver to make sure it was securely secured to the MDF.
• I folded the tape over the bottom edge, to make sure it was completely waterproof in case there was some spilled epoxy. Next, I applied the tape to the end of the shape, making sure there was overlap on each strip. It would have been really nice if I could have found a wider lining tape, this took a while as the strips were very narrow.
• With all the inside faces of the form glued together, I began attaching the walls to the bottom of the form. I used 1 ¼” screws, making sure to hold the sides in place to prevent them from moving. I also pre-drilled and countersunk the holes to make sure the MDF doesn't crack. Next, I added a bead of silicone caulk to the inside corners of the form. This will prevent the epoxy from seeping out of the form. I used a caulking tool to clean off the excess caulk.
• To prevent the slabs from floating in the epoxy, I attached them to the form with screws from the bottom. I first secured the slabs in place to make sure they were tight against the form, and then added 1 ¼” screws, making sure to pre-drill and countersink the holes. With everything in place, I leveled the form, to ensure the epoxy was level across the entire surface of the slabs.
• First, I needed to calculate how much epoxy I needed to mix. To do this, I measured the inside area of ​​the form, measuring the width, depth, and length of the area where the epoxy would be. By multiplying these three measurements, I got the area in cubic inches and converted that number to liters. In total, I mixed 18 liters of epoxy. As I said in the intro, I was trying to replicate the blue-green color of the first river table I built, so I decided to do a two-color pour. So I mixed 6 liters of the resin and 3 liters of the hardener in each bucket.
• To color, I used Ecopoxy pigments, using their blue in one bucket and their green in the other bucket. These pigments are incredibly concentrated, so I made sure to add a little at a time. After adding the pigments, I mixed each cube thoroughly, for about 3 minutes each. The metallic pigment tended to clump together, so I made sure to mix it until there were no clumps left.
• Finally, the moment of truth had arrived, the pouring. I poured the blue epoxy first, and I have to say I was a little surprised at how light the color looked. Next, I poured the green epoxy, starting at the other end, luckily leaving a little epoxy in the bucket in case I needed to make some adjustments to the color. I added a little more blue pigment and metallic pigment to the remaining epoxy, mixed it well, and then added it as the last pour, and this gave the piece the perfect look. The extra depth of color from the pigment and the mother of pearl look of the metallic pigment really made the river come to life. I used my mixing wand to incorporate the last pour, added some swirls and really tried to make the resin look like moving water, and then took a second to admire the piece.
• After letting the epoxy sit for a few minutes, I went back with a propane torch and unclogged any bubbles forming on the surface, then gave the piece about three days to fully cure. Once the epoxy had dried, I removed the form, starting with the sides. Even with the mold release, these were stuck pretty well to the epoxy, but a few taps with a blow mallet loosened them enough to come off.
• Upon closer inspection of the top, I noticed that the epoxy was about ⅛” below the surface of the slabs which was seeping into all areas on the form. I could have used my drum sander to clean this up, but, as I mentioned, this thing was incredibly difficult to handle on my own, and I was afraid I would loosen it or damage it in some way. I sanded the slab with my random orbital sander, starting with 80 grit and working up to 180 grit for the wood and 400 grit for the epoxy resin top. I left the underside of the epoxy a little rougher, stopping at 120 grit, to diffuse the light a little more.
• I applied the finish fairly liberally, let it sit for about five minutes to react with the wood, and then polished it, removing the excess. And that was it, that's the beauty of this finish, you only need one coat. I repeated the same process for the top part of the piece.
• While I let the finish dry, I worked on the mounting mechanism for the headboard. I decided to keep it simple and use a french cleat, and decided to use a 2x4 for this. I tilted the blade on my table saw at 45 degrees and ripped the 2x4 about in the center. I wanted the headboard to be slightly off the wall, to allow the lights to diffuse behind the piece, hence why I used a 2x4. I attached the 2x4 to the back of the headboard with 2-inch screws, making sure to pre-drill and countersink the holes to prevent the 2x4 from separating.
• Next, I started designing the placement of the LED lights. These lights are battery operated to avoid having wires behind the river(epoxy) section, so I needed to make sure the battery packs were easily accessible so the batteries could be changed when they ran out. I used these little clips to permanently hold the LED strips, and they worked great. I also made sure not to block any of the LEDS when I attach these clips.
• I used these ridiculously over-the-top 4 ½” construction screws to mount the French clip to the wall, so I needed to drill a hole large enough where these screws could fit without splitting the 2x4.

Finally, I was able to mount the headboard on the wall, and this project was done

Video:

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