Make Your Own Homemade Oven in the Patio of Your House 2026

Make your Own Homemade Oven in the Patio of your House. Why order pizza when you can bake your own? Serving freshly baked pizza and bread in your outdoor living room is a great way to entertain your family and friends. But you don't have to spend a lot of money to build a full-size outdoor oven. This DIY oven may look like an elf house, but it will let you bake homemade bread and pizza for years.

Have your family and friends help you with this project over the weekend. It's a simple project and is cheaper than buying a new oven that runs on electricity or gas.

Yes, you can use an exercise ball as a mold for your DIY pizza oven. It's a convenient way for those who already have one at home, and it's less complicated than other pizza oven projects!

The detailed tutorial below will tell you everything you need to know and do, so start gathering your tools, materials and start making this project!

Materials:

• Exercise ball
• Perlite
• Cement
• Stainless steel needles
• Formica
• Fire bricks
• 3×5 x 1/2″ Cement Support Joint
• Cobblestones
• 4″x2′ fireplace
• Plywood
• Adhesive tape
• Plastic wrap

Tools:

• Tape measure
• Rule
• Bookmark
• Pallet
• Wheelbarrow/bucket
• Cordless drill
• Steppe Gun
• Screwdriver

Steps:

• Top dome mold structure: So, after inflating my wife's exercise ball, I measured the circumference to calculate the diameter of the cut circle.
• You take your CIR measurement divided by pi 3.14 and it gives you the diameter.
• I cut out my circle, inserted the ball and feather, inside the created dome.

• FYI, there is a picture showing a bungee cord around the bottom of the ball. I was afraid to put concrete on top and the ball would slip.
• I never used the bungee cord and simply inflated the balloon a little more, essentially wedging it.

• Then he went to the entrance to the mouth of the door. So with my 12.5 inch dome height I went with a 7.875 door height, remember the old days, trying to aim for a 63% ratio. I wanted to be able to pull the ball or deflate it from below, so I also wanted to remove the mold from the door. So here's the setup for that.
• One thing I can say is, take your time. Like many things you create that translate to many stages later in a project, the devil is in the details. Take your time to make those things fit better.
• I had some trial and error on some things, like the white paws you see under the platform, they sucked and fell apart. I got them out of my neighbors' trash. Also, I never thought about it until I was about to put concrete into the form, supporting the plywood/mold. When you are playing with him, almost anything can contain him while you play with him. Then it occurs to you, about the weight and awkward shape you have to support from below.

• Once the mold is ready or when you think it is, it's time to just say "go ahead" and mix the concrete.

• Concrete mix and upper dome molding: The mix I went with was Perlite/Cement. I also added stainless steel needles for strength (fiber)

• I used a wheelbarrow and your standard hoe with a chopping action. I started with 2.5 buckets of perlite and half a bucket of cement. Mixed well together. Then I added the SS needles, I saw online someone said 5% SS was needed. I bought 10 pounds so I thought about 4 pounds should be enough. I hope the overuse isn't an overkill that will be a problem later.
• I added about half a bucket of water and kept the mahose nearby to spray additional water as needed. Don't forget that once you have water in your mixture, carefully add very little water, a little will go a long way. If you add too much water, you can always add some extra drying.

• If I did it again, I say it now, but at the time it seemed like a lot of extra work, I would NOT have used the ball as a shape. Yes, it worked. Yes, it looks very good. What I didn't like is that I had planned everything including the thickness of the dome and wanted to keep it at 2 inches. I even made a gauge to ensure proper thickness.
• But once I started carefully adding the material, I just couldn't stand to move up the sides of the form. The top pinned, and the bottom/sides up about 4 inches, at any top, it will just slide down and thicken the bottom. Also, the material feels very strange if you have worked with concrete before, the perlite makes it extremely light and airy and you feel the need to try to “compact” the wall and the BALL gives and moves.
• If you apply too much pressure, the rest of the ball will bulge and you will see the material move. So with that being said, I could have put plaster in the ball, made a positive mold and then transferred it to a negative version.
• In the end, the bottom walls are about 3 inches thick and the sides about two.

• Finish the details at the top of the dome: So, having explained, I couldn't push or compact the mixture aggressively or the ball would just give and bounce.
• After a day of curing, I noticed in a spot about the size of an eraser head that I could see the ball through the wall. So I decided to take off my coat inside and out. I leafed through the exterior and after a day of curing I removed the molds.

• I had been trying to figure out what the best look was for the exterior and after seeing the mixing results, I decided to use some cement and some SS needles to remove the interior and exterior.
• It came out looking pretty good. Just remember, water is the enemy. Use sparingly. Obviously, you want the right amounts to create the optimal cement mix, but try not to use too much water to soften it and what not.
• You will find that water may make it easier to smooth the surface, but proper timing on the concrete (about 5 minutes after application) and some elbow grease will do the same.

• So for the inside and outside I just applied a thin thin coat of the needles and SS and made sure to take advantage of the stiffness and blend in the holes.

• Lower floor mold: This is how the upper part is made. Now it's time to work on the bottom. Almost all the ovens I saw used a large terra cotta tile or a pizza stone in smaller ovens.
• I wanted fire bricks. I wanted it to look good, serve a purpose, and be replaceable if they crack over time so they can't "set" like you can see in some larger ovens.

• It is also important to lay the brick floor in a herringbone pattern. The reason is that if you place your bricks parallel to the door, when you slide your peel, you risk catching or chipping a brick front edge. It's not good and it doesn't taste good either. In addition to the herringbone quality.
• I slid the top dome onto a piece of plywood, took it out, then took out the original circle I had made for the exercise ball (giving me the inner circle of the dome) and had my two templates.

• My fire bricks are 8.25 L x 4.125 W x 1.25 thick.
• I wanted a total thickness of 2.25 for my floor. So the exterior layout that I made of the (footprint) of the dome was along the bottom.
• I placed 2.75″ (2.25 for the total thickness of the floor, and .5″so I can screw it to the edge of the plywood template) tall pieces of Formica around the entire edge, stapling and screwing.
• I took my inner circle and the inside of the door template and put in a couple pieces of wood to hold the inner circle in place 1″ higher than the floor.

• The idea was that the main bottom template would be made concrete up to 1 inch tall/thick, then I would insert my interior mold into the doorway and that would represent the space where the fire bricks would later go, and fill in the rest of the concrete. The path, so that the bricks are at the same height as the rest of the concrete floor...
• Please don't forget to put the SS needles like I did. It seems to be a little fragile on some edges because of that.

Refractory brick floor:

• I wanted to place the floor in a herringbone, so that it wouldn't catch any edges when putting in or taking out pizzas. I wanted to start with 3 full size pieces in the entryway.
• I didn't want to have crazy cuts, but I ended up with 2. I've laid tiles in the past so I had a little experience here, but the great part is that you can basically lay the tile on top and make a few marks on the tile and make the cut.
• In short, you want a perfect fit and you will find a few cut and pushed bricks that will fit into place. Do not force it as it may break or damage something.

Lower floor detail:

• I removed the bricks and did some repairs (broken the brittles due to not having SS needles, so I guess anyway) and skimmed the edge to give it a cleaner look. So once I saw the edges, I went back later and smoothed them out and cleaned them up. (I previously forgot to mention this step because I didn't have any photos.)
• I had traced an outline of the footprint of the lower section of the oven on the cement board. Cut it and mix some cement and use it as glue to place the bottom section of the oven on the cement support...
• I added the skim coat to the walls and edge of cement reinforcement... Making everything look like one uniform section

Support base and paving stones:

• We had our spot selected for some time. I sunk a 4x4 into the ground in front of the table and used 2x4s to make a platform
• My pizza oven weighs only a few hundred pounds, but I think it's better to be safe than sorry. I think my deck was 45 inches long and 36 inches deep.
• 12 to 15 inch supports and we used 2 inch thick covers that a neighbor was throwing away. It can be seen in the photos that we have it slightly rotated. We have a garden right there and it looked better that way anyway.

• We also added some pavers for the oven to sit on. It seemed like some opinions varied on the amount of space, but basically you want at least 3″ of concrete or insulation if you have it on a wood deck.
• I've seen people use less and more, but 3″ seems to be the common number. So we laid pavers and I used my wooden template from the bottom section to make my mark, and cut to size. It looks good, doesn't it?

• We put a strap around the pavers so they wouldn't move, they brought the base and put it on. Then we place 1 brick/paving stone (it should be a little higher than the floor) in each corner (4 in total, 2 in the back and 2 in the front) and place a round pipe or a wooden dowel.
• I mixed a small batch of cement and SS needles and troweled a thin layer onto the base of the floor. I basically used it as a “glue” for the two pieces. (I didn't take any photos of this process, but I added a photo with the fire brick floor so I can explain it. It is the perimeter of the surface around the fire bricks, not the entrance curve of the front door,that 3 inch edge).
• We brought in the top and carefully placed the pegs or supports you are using to extend to the bricks. Then we lined it up and lifted the back, took out the pin and carefully lowered it. Then he did it at the front.

Obviously it hasn't been turned on yet, I think we'll wait about 3 weeks to make sure we're good and healed. Just stick your face in the door and sniff. If it smells damp or wet, give it a few more days.

• After 3 weeks we plan to make a small fire (2-3 twigs), let them burn completely and extinguish.
• Repeat the next day with a medium heat (3-4 twigs), burn and extinguish.
• Another medium heat… But add it to keep it on medium heat for about an hour.

Then you should be ready for a good roaring fire.

Note:

Any cracks that occur can be filled later once the cement mixture is broken into the oven... When you get your fancy new pizza making equipment, be sure to get a thermometer to monitor the temperatures.

Few additional photos I thought were worth looking at: I took a few additional photos that I thought were important. The door opening is approximately 12.5 inches wide. I absolutely feel like it's enough... as I mentioned before, with 90 seconds of cooking, one pizza at a time is perfect.

That's all, greetings.

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