LED Lamp with Wooden Base Made of Concrete and Acrylic! 2026

Amazon Essentials by Sofia Grainge - Summer 2026 Promotion

I created random holes in each piece of Styrofoam with a hot screwdriver, which I heated on a portable gas stove.

Next, I inserted the acrylic into the smaller styrofoam piece, which will actually be the bottom of the mold, and secured them in place with a zip tie.

Step 3: Fold the acrylic pieces

When it comes to inserting the acrylic into the sides of the mold, there is one important step that will make this possible. And that step is to bend the acrylic.

So, I bent the acrylic using a simple technique that requires only a gas stove and a lighter. I turned on the gas stove, reduced the heat, and placed a piece of acrylic on top, waiting about 20 seconds for it to soften so I could bend it easily.

This way I folded all the acrylic pieces and inserted them into the holes I previously made. To make the next step easier, I tied them with brackets.

Now I can secure the acrylic in place with hot glue.

Applying cooking oil on the Styrofoam surface will prevent the concrete from sticking to the mold.

Step 4: Mold assembly

Finally, I can assemble the mold.

Instead of using a Styrofoam adhesive, I went with toothpicks.teeth and hot glue. The toothpicks served as dowels, and the hot glue helped me fill in all the spaces between the joints.

In addition, I used a corner clamp, masking tape, and masking tape to secure the mold.

Step 5: Mix some concrete

Now I can mix some concrete. I mixed one part sand with one part cement and gradually added water until I got a thick consistency. Then, I poured the concrete into the mold. Here I needed to vibrate the mold by hand to fill all the voids.

I poured concrete into the mold until it reached 20 cm high. At the end, I also vibrated the mold to release the air pockets.

When I was done, I left the concrete curing for 2 days.

Step 6: Removing the mold and cutting the extra length of acrylic

Removing the mold was very easy, I only had one difficulty with the hot glue that stuck to the acrylic. But I removed it easily with a knife.

All acrylic pieces must be flush with the concrete surface. So, I cut off all the parts of the acrylic that were sticking out of the concrete with a coping saw.

Also, I had to cut the extra length of acrylic at the bottom, leaving only 3cm.

Next, I sanded the concrete surface with my random orbit sander to remove all imperfections.

Step 7: Creating the wooden base

Now, I can move on to the wooden base. The base I made of beech wood. I cut 4 identical pieces at a 45 degree angle to get a clean look, because I want the focus to be on the concrete and acrylic.

When I placed the wood pieces on the concrete, I noticed that some of the acrylic pieces were closer to the edge, which does not allow the wood to sit flush with the concrete. Therefore, I needed to remove parts of the thickness of the wood on the crosscut sled.

It took me a while to finish, because I needed to adjust the blade all the time, but I was really pleased with the end result. I made enough room for the acrylic to fit inside the base.

At the bottom of the base, I am going to place a piece of wood fiber, so I need to make a socket in each piece of wood, 5 mm wide and 7 mm deep. These laces will give a cleaner look to the base.

Step 8: Make room for the LED driver

I took the piece of wood that will go on the back of the lamp, and made a space for the LED driver.I have drilled two holes for the power plug and the other for the IR receiver. On the other hand, I made enough room for the driver with a Forstner bit and a chisel.

Next, I'm going to glue the base. Using masking tape as a clamp when gluing the miter corners together works quite well.

Step 9: Application of the finish to concrete and wood

While the primer is drying, I can protect the concrete surface with a clear finish. First, I cleaned the surface with a wet rug and then sprayed it all over the concrete.

Now I can return to base.

One corner had a gap in the joint, so I filled the gap with a combination of wood glue and sawdust. I was surprised how good it turned out.

After that, I sanded the base by hand, first with 120 and then with 220 grit sandpaper. To protect the wood, I applied a clear coat of finish.

Step 10: Installing the light

Then, I can work on the light. I cut a 1 meter RGB LED strip at the predetermined cut points. Then, I took the connector, removed the wires and soldered them properly on the LED strip. I am using a 12V power adapter.

Before gluing everything in place, I did a test to see how it works.

Everything was fine, so I glued the controller and IR receiver in place.

Next, I placed the LED strip on the base.

Step 11: Join all the parts

To cover the bottom I used a 3mm thick fiberboard, and I attached it with only 2 screws, so you can easily remove it if necessary.

All parts are ready for assembly. I applied a large amount of epoxy to make a strong connection between the wood and the concrete.

The last thing I need to do is place silicone cabinet bumpers on the bottom to protect the surface where the lamp will be placed.

Now I can insert the plug, turn on the lamp and enjoy the fascinating effect.

Thank you for coming to take a look! Greetings!

Get more information at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more LED Lamp with Wooden Base Made of Concrete and Acrylic.