Make a portable lathe table 2026

Making a portable lathe table can be a slightly complicated DIY job, but it will be worth it because this table will be of great help for future work.

This bench was designed to be heavy and strong to support the lathe and reduce vibration. Pegboard allows flexibility for hanging chisels and more.

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I've added a drawer to store odds and extremes. There is additional storage space under the drawer.

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Make a table for a portable lathe

MATERIALS:

• 1 3/4" thick, half sheet, MDF
• A 3/4" thick, half sheet, MDF
• Also 1 – 1/4", half sheet, pegboard
•  (1) 1/2" thick, half sheet, plywood
•  (1) 3/4" thick, quarter sheet, plywood
•  (6) 2×4, 96", Board Hardware/Supplies:
• (16) #14 x 1-1/2" 3/8 Hex Self-Tapping Screws
•  (38) #8 x 1-1/4" T-25 Construction Screws  (2) #8-32 X 1-3/4" Screws
• (12) 1" Drywall Screws
• (8) 1-1/4" pocket hole screws
•  (2) 16" Drawer Slides
• (80) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
• (4) 3" Locking Swivel Casters (Home Depot)
•  (1) Drawer handle

Step by step on how to make a portable lathe table

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Step 1 Instructions: Measure and Cut

Measure and arrange all parts according to the Cut List.

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I used the Kreg circular saw edge guide to cut the bench top, tabletop, bottom shelf, drawer bottom, drawer sides, and drawer face.

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I used a miter saw to cut the 2x4 lumber to size.

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Step 2 instructions: Assemble the feet

Start by assembling the feet. Mark and pre-drill the 3" wheel holes.

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Mount the wheels to the feet using (16) #14 x 1-1/2" 3/8 Hex Self-Tapping Screws.

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Step 3 instructions: Assemble the top frame

Set the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig for 1-1/2" material and drill pocket holes in the long and short stretchers.

Assemble the top frame using (12) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4 instructions: Assemble the bottom frame

Repeat steps to assemble the bottom frame using (8) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 5 Instructions: Attach the Legs

Drill pocket holes in both ends of all four legs and in the side of the rear legs for later steps.

Attach the legs to the top frame first and then to the bottom frame using (16) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Note that the front and rear legs are flush with the outside of the top frame.

The lower frame is shorter.

The bottom frame is flush with the outside of the rear legs and lines up with the inside of the front legs to give a little more leg room while standing in front of the bench.

Step 6 Instructions: Attach Feet

Turn the entire frame upside down to attach the feet to the legs.

The feet will extend 1-1/2" from the front legs and 3" from the rear legs. Attach with (8) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 7 Instructions: Attach Corset

Drill pocket holes at the bottom end of the uprights and at both ends of the cross brace.

Attach the cross brace to the uprights using (4) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 8 Instructions: Attach Pegboard Supports

Attach the upright brackets to the feet using (4) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and then attach the brackets to the frame with (6) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 9 Instructions: Place the Bench Top

Place both 3/4" thick MDF boards in place on the Frame to form a 1-1/2" Bench.

Drill and offset sink holes to screw the two boards together using (20) T-25 #8 x 1-1/4" construction screws around the perimeter.

Flip the table top over and attach to the frame using (22) 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 10 instructions: Attach pegboard

Attach pegboard to uprights and cross brace using (12) 1" drywall screws.

Step 11 Instructions: Add Bottom Shelf

Drill and drill sink holes in the bottom shelf and secure to the bottom frame using (4) T-25 #8 x 1-1/4" construction screws.

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