Modern Design Bed with Floating Perspective! 2026

Bed with Modern Design and Floating Perspective, eliminate the legs that are normally used in each corner and try to hide the base structure as best as I could when standing in front of it...

After several suggestions, I added some LED lights around the bottom parameter... It really adds to the effect!

Modern Design Bed

And this is what I came up with. Six arms extend from a central column to support the edge of the bed and the headboard.

These arms are hinged at the base, with a steel cable tensioned between the opposing arms to restrict their width and further rigging to the base to create a static, level structure.

The base extends to prevent everything from tipping over when you sit on an edge with minimal flexibility.

The bed is designed around a standard 4ft 6 mattress. Overall dimensions are 2120mm long and 1570mm wide, the frame sits at a height of 350mm.

Supplies:

• 7 x 2400 mm scaffold board
• 1 x 1800mm scaffold board
• Wood for slats, I used 69x18mm white wood
• Wire cable (not sure how much less than 20m)
• 8 Eye Bolts
• 9 Tensioners
• Wire rope thimbles
• Cable holders
• Electrical tape
• 8 M10 30mm Bolts
• 10 M10 100 mm Bolts/Nuts
• 4 M10 130 mm Bolts/Nuts
• Wood screws
• Wood glue
• Oil/varnish.

Tools I used:

• Saws (table/miter/circular/saw)
• Router
• Drilling with drill bits and hole cutters
• Sander
• Chisels
• Screwdrivers
• Hammers
• Cable cutters and pliers
• Set of keys
• Clamps
• Level
• Tape measure

Step 1: Design

The arms are hinged in fixed locations to reduce stresses in that area of the design. The use ofe a pin joint means that they are essentially free to rotate and therefore stress free when loading the end of the arms, now the joint has to deal primarily with compression loading.

To prevent the arms from rotating, the cable is mounted between the opposite arms, which comes into tension when the arms are loaded.

And with only a 4mm cable with a minimum load of ~1000kg, the structure should remain solid.

With the design sorted, it was time to start building! I have given a summary of the steps I took and the photos should help, but it is essential that you only need to create the parts specified in the drawings.

Step 2: Preparation

The bed will be made of 8 scaffold planks (7 – 2400 mm and 1 – 1800 mm long). You can regularly pick them up cheaply from wood recovery/recycling yards, which helps keep costs down.

I began by preparing the scaffolding boards; removing the metalwork from the ends and giving them a little order.

To make them easier to work with, I cut them to the length of the individual components. You can see in the included image how the 8 boards are divided into parts.

Step 3: Base

The base consists of 5 parts that you need to cut; 2x base plates, 2 base supports and spine.

Plate/base plate:

• Mark the part using the dimensions on the drawing.
• To recess the width of the piece, I first used a miter saw with the depth stop engaged (slightly less than the required depth) and made several cuts to remove most of the material. I then used a Router to finish the cut to the correct depth.
• For the other hole cut I had to use the Router for the complete cut. This meant having to make multiple passes, each one taking out a little more material. The corners are detailed with a chisel.
• Then I used a saw to round off the ends of the first base plate. And then I used a Route with a profile bit to copy it to the second one.
• The holes for the eye bolts were drilled with the bottom recessed to allow the nut to sit level.

Base supports:

• Mark the parts
• Used the miter saw to cut the 45° angles.
• For the center cut, I first made holes in the corners and then used a saw to cut it
• The holes for the pins were drilled.

Thorn:

• Mark the parts
• Cut to correct width with a table saw
• Holes for pins
• With all the pieces cut out I used a Router to round the edges and sanded it. I then did a dry assembly to check that everything was tight and adjusted the parts where necessary to ensure a good fit.

It was time to apply some wood adhesive, put the parts together and hold everything up to dry. I added some screws just in case.

Step 4: Arms

The first "side arm" you cut out will become the "master" that will be used to make the others, so take your time to get it right.

1. Cut the planks to the correct width
2. Mark the parts or pieces.
3. Trim the piece with the appropriate saw for each cut.
4. Drill holes for the pins (adjust the diameter of this hole for the size of dowel you are using).
5. With the first cut, you can use it to quickly mark the others and then cut them into the rough shape.

Then, using a router with a profile bit, the 'master' is used as a guide to terminate the other arms and ensure they are all the same:

1. Clamp the “master” to the top of the “gross” blank.
2. Set the heading on the bit to run around the "master".
3. The depth of my Router was at maximum, so I had to make the cut in two parts, eliminating the "master" for the second cut.

You should now have 8 side arms that are identical.

The only difference between the Side Arms (a) and (b) is the side in which you route a small gap to allow the mounting of a slat. The arms for the front and back follow the same process….

The parts were then given a quick sanding and the edges were rounded.

The spacers were then cut out and glued between two arms, with brads used to add strength. I inserted a metal tube while they were drying to ensure proper alignment.

Step 5: Batten Supports

These parts will be attached to the bed frame and used to assemble the slats. 2 slat assemblies are needed, one on the left and one on the right.

• The blanks were cut to the correct width using a circular saw with the blade set to the correct angle.
• The clippings were cut again using the same method. Multiple cuts with the miter saw set to the required depth and then cleaned with a chisel.
• A template was cut out of a piece of wood and used with a router to cut holes for the slats to sit.

The slats were also cut to the required lengthat this point.

Step 6: Surround/Head

The headboard and frame are simply lengths of planks joined together with a lap joint.

Header:

1. I used a table saw to cut multiple slits to the correct depth.
2. Then chisel away most of the material
3. A Router was configured to finish the cut.
4. The gasket was tested and adjusted to obtain a good fit.
5. On the bottom board I cut a 5° bevel along the bottom edge
6. Glue was applied and the two boards were closed to dry.

Surrounding:

1. Cut to correct width with a circular saw.
2. The miter saw with the depth stop set was used to cut multiple passes that were trimmed with a chisel.
3. The joint was tested and adjusted to obtain a good fit.
4. The rabbets and slots were routed for the headboard supports and side hardware.
5. The surrounding one was glued and fastened

Step 7: Finishing

All parts received a final sanding and then finished with Danish oil to maintain a natural look.

With all the pieces made, we are now ready to assemble!

Step 8: Assembly

The tubes I used for the pins (34mm diameter) were left over from my previous scaffolding shelving project, so I started assembly by cutting the pins, 12 are needed. The arms can now be assembled to the base structure.

1. I started with the "side arms", connecting the opposite arms together. The cable, with a turnbuckle inserted at the midpoint, is wrapped around the top pin of each arm and clamped. I wrapped it in electrical tape.
2. I used a ribbon to establish the correct width of the arms meant to be apart and tightened thecable tie to set this width.
3. The front and back are now arranged in the same way. At this point, all 3 sets of arms will be able to swing from side to side, so now we have to improvise down to the base.
4. The top pin rigging of each arm is connected to the end of the base supports. The arms can now be locked into a static frame by tightening the turnbuckles on the positioned sides!
5. With the arms adjusted, we can now add the slat mounts to each side of the frame. These simple ones sit on the cutout at the top of the side arms.
6. The surrounding one rises in its place. Sits on the flat portion on the upper arms.
7. Then I placed the slats on the mounting points.
8. The slat mounts are now joined to the surrounding one. The wood blocks are glued and screwed between the batten mounts and the frame. I did this when they were assembled on the arms rather than before to ensure alignment.
9. The headboard is placed on the frame and holes drilled through it and the headboard is supported. The headboard can be screwed into place.
10. The “accessory” pieces need to be cut out and glued/screwed to the frame. Again, done when assembled to ensure they were in the correct place between the arms.
11. Holes are now drilled through the arms and fittings. A bolt is pushed in and the nut is tightened… The bed frame is now secured.
12. The last step was to fine-tune the tension of the cables to level the entire bed frame.

Step 9: Project finished!

The bed frame is now complete! I've slept there the last few nights and haven't woken up in a pile of splintered wood yet, so it's all good!

Being a prototype design, there are obviously some things I would do differently if I made another one. While you can sit right on one side without lifting the other side, there is a small amount of flex - extending the base supports further would improve this but would then compromise the "floating effect".

In the end, while you can happily sit in the corners without support, perhaps change the design so that the arms come out towards the corner of the frame instead of forward/back in the center.

Get more information at perfectionidea.com and on our Facebook for more Modern Design and Floating Perspective Bed.

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