Today we will teach you an interesting technique with wooden nuts and screws which you can learn and save time on any DIY project.
Video of how to do this technique for wooden nuts and screws
Click to see the Video.
Make your own and you'll be well on your way to fastener-free furniture.
Step 1: Tools and materials

- Hardwood Pegs and Boards: I used 1 1/2″ Red Oak Pegs and 2″X10″ Ash Wood Pegs.
- Flaxseed oil
- Wood Tapping Kit, 1-1/2″ x 6 TPI
Step 2: The nuts




- I cut out donut shapes to make the nuts. They are 4″ Ø with a 1 1/4″ centered hole. Hole size is important: 1 1/4″ gives a snug fit to the threads while giving it enough room to fit the threading tool.
- Hole consistency is also very important, so I recommend using a face bit instead of a paddle bit. A drill press is also essential for obtaining straight holes.
- This is where linseed oil comes in: put them on a rag and apply them generously to the inside of the hole. This lubricates the faucet; You will find that it is very difficult to get through the hole without the linseed oil.
- When you start tapping, it's very important to make sure the tapping tool is flush, otherwise you'll get a slanted thread.
- There is no need to go back in and out like you would with metal. There are grooves built into the tool that channel wood chips.
WARNING: A rag soaked in linseed oil can spontaneously combust due to oxidation!
Step 3: Create the coil



- Hold the dowel and turn the die tool so that it is flush with the top of the dowel. This also gives you straight threading which will prevent you from getting a slanted table leg, or whatever you plan to use the nuts and bolts for.
- It helps to sand a slight chamfer on the end of the peg you are threading, this will make it easier to make a flush thread.
- This tool is virtually effortless, with no need for linseed oil in it, and no need to go back and take it out.
Step 4: Join the pieces



- I'm playing with these and thinking of a lot of different applications. The first use will be a coffee table.
- These things are INCREDIBLY STURDY when you put them together as shown in the photo. I also love the fact that a finished piece of furniture made this way can be taken apart and moved, or the pieces can be reused for something else.
- The die-cutting component is interchangeable for different sizes (I've seen a range from 1/2″ Ø to 2″ Ø), so you could really do some interesting things with a more complete kit.
- Red oak is very strong (and you can buy them at any hardware store; they are used as clothing racks and handrails), but the wood is not hard enough to prevent softer veins from breaking. I'd like to try it with other species of wood and see how well it holds up. I suspect the poplar would be much less prone to bursting like this.
That's all. Greetings!
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