Learn How to Build a Rustic Bathroom Vanity is a simple 1x3 and 1x4 project that can be completed using basic tools, just a miter saw and a drill, but I have used more tools since I started with hardwood. Let's read!
Step 1: Materials

I'm going to detail how to build the Single Dresser version.
Materials used in bathroom vanities (affiliate links):
- 4 x 8 foot long 1×4
- 8 x 8 feet long 1x3s
- 2’x4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 2’x4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- Wood glue
- Wooden dowels
- 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
- Front Mount Hinges
- Knobs
- Water-based polyurethane
Step 2: Cutting pieces


- Center face frame: Length: 21″ – Width: 2″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Upper/Lower door frame: Length: 14″ – Width: 3″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Door frame sides: Length: 18″ – Width: 3″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Door panel: Length: 20″ – Width: 3″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Front/rear frame: Length: 281/2″ – Width: 3″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Legs: Length: 30″ – Width: 3″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Side frame: Length: 15″ – Width: 3″ – Thickness: 3/4″
- Side panels: Length: 25″ – Width: 4″ – Thickness: 3/4″
There are many parts to this build, and having some type of saw with a stop block will be extremely helpful in speeding things up.
I started with hardwood, so I started by ripping my boards to the width of the table saw, then cut the pieces to the length of the miter saw.
Step 3: Assemble the legs

The legs on these dressers are pretty simple, just two pieces of 1x3 connected at 90 degrees.
This gives the illusion of a big, meaty leg.
I assembled my legs with pocket screws and glue.
Step 4: Assemble side sets



Once the legs are dry, I cut. I used a Festool Domino XL extensively on this project, but you can easily use pocket or dowel screws and achieve a very similar result.
All three carpentry methods use the same piece lengths.
With the joinery cut, I attached the legs to the side rails using the Domino dowels.
I clamped this side assembly and let it dry, then replaced the assembly for the other side.
Step 5: Assemble the face frame


The face frame on the vanity has a vertical rail.
You can attach this with pocket screws, dominoes or dowels.
Step 6: Assemble the Vanity Frame

Attach the facing frame to one of the side assemblies from the previous step.
Also, place the rear rails at this point. Finally, attach the other side assembly and secure the entire casing.
Step 7: Assemble door frames

The doors are made up of two vertical uprights and two horizontal rails.
Again, I used Dominos here, but pocket pins or screws would work fine.
Step 8: Assemble the door panel and attach it to the door frame


Glue the pieces onto a panel, keeping it as flat as possible.
Once the glue dries, sand the panels until they are smooth and relatively flat.
Connect thepanel to the back of the door frame with 1 ¼” screws.
I have drilled oversized screw holes in the corners of the panels to allow for movement of the wood.
Step 9: Install the door hardware

I used basic front mount hinges and knobs on these doors.
It is a good idea to pre-install your equipment before finishing.
This way, if you make a mistake, you can easily fix it without having to redo the finish.
Step 10: Glue the side panel and attach it to the case


The side panels are made up of 4 1×4 pieces.
Stick them into a panel, just like the door panels, keeping them as flat as possible.
After the glue dries, sand flats.
Attach the panels to the inside of the vanity shell with 1 ¼" screws.
Ensure the top of the panel is flush with the top side rail, this will provide additional support for the countertop.
Again, drill oversized holes in the corners of the panel to allow for movement of the wood.
Step 11: Cut and Install the Plywood Bottom


The bottom is made of ¾" plywood.
I cut the plywood to size using my table saw and rail saw, but you can have your local center cut the piece for you if you don't have the tools to cut the plywood.
I then drilled pocket holes in the plywood using my pocket hole jig, then attached the bottom from the bottom with pocket screws.
Step 12: Cut Back Panels and Attach to Vanity


I made my back panels relatively small, leaving plenty of room for the plumbing to run down the back of the vanity.
You can certainly install a complete back panel and cut precise holes to match your plumbing.
The back panel is made of ¼” plywood.
Again, your home can cut these pieces to size if you can't, although they don't have to be super precise. A circular saw could cut them easily.
Attach the back panels with a nail gun or screws.
Step 13: Apply the finish

I sprayed with a few coats of water-based polyurethane, but you can certainly brush the finish if you don't have access to a spray system.
Water-based polyurethane will raise the grain in the wood, so you will likely need to sand after the first coat.
Step 14: Enjoy your vanity!


I'm not going to go into how to install the vanity, it's a pretty simple process, usually you just attach the vanity to the wall and then add the countertop. Once this is done, the dressing table is complete.
Get more information at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more Learn to Build a Rustic Bathroom Vanity.
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