Concrete and Beach Glass Bar, If you want to add a bar to the outdoor kitchen, but an awkward structural pillar meant you would have to get creative with the shape. I decided on a shape that echoed a 1950's Gibson guitar. This would allow the post to sit in the V notch of the table and also the tapering of the bar would allow enough room for people to gather on either side of the bar.
Step 1: Make the shape

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Working from Cheng's brilliant guide "Concrete Countertops", I made the shape using a melamine board. For safety I opted for the curved ends, rather than the sharp angles of the Gibson. This initially posed a problem, but I was able to get the curves I wanted using different diameters of PVC pipe.
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I cut this at the correct angle and held it in place with melamine blocks. Plasticine was then used to protect the screw heads from the concrete and make it easier to dismantle the form.
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All seams were caulked with black silicone (easier to see than white) and smoothed to the rounded profile I wanted for the top edges.
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Over the years, living on a boat, my wife had accumulated many interesting beach glasses, which went unnoticed in a jar in the kitchen.
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This project would allow us to show it! I was looking for a look that emulated the coast, where beach glass is found, with the sea on one side of the table and sand on the other. Since we live on water, the "sea" side would naturally face the water.
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Step 2: Concrete, fiber pens and dye

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Then I went to the hardware store for supplies. I recommend reading Cheng's book as the formulation of the mixture is quite important and some of the necessary additives were not easily found.
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We were able to purchase the dye online, and a friend in the business connected us with fiber and water reducer. All of these products are also available on Cheng's website.
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The next decision was where to pour the concrete. I was doing this job alone, working with two different colors of concrete and the job site was down two flights of stairs from where I planned to mix the concrete.
These logistics had me worried that I wouldn't have time to manually mix the necessary amount of concrete, so I found a well-used mixer.
The finished table would be too heavy to move or lift alone, so I configured the shape as close to the installation location as possible. I bought a bunch of buckets to carry the concrete mix up the stairs.
The components of the mixture were calculated based on the working capacity of the mixer and, in particular, the colorant was carefully measured to ensure that each small batch had a uniform color.
Step 3: Mix and Pour




These images show me packing the concrete mix, trying to fill all the corners of the mold/form without displacing the reinforcement mesh.
In retrospect, I think my mix was a little stiff, and even after an hour or so of vibrating the mold with an orbital sander, I was still getting bubbles and had several small gaps in the finished table.
I was able to fill these holes with a thin layer of cement before polishing.
Step 4: Finishing/Polishing




The first image shows the ladder frame I built to support the bar top with the completed bar top still in the mold at the bottom. The 6″ X 8″ posts that support the top of the bar are bolted to the deck joists below the deck.
The image below shows the top bar straight from the mold and before any polishing. I installed the top bar before polishing as it would be at the perfect height to work with. I slowly worked my way through the progressively thinner pads and worked more intensely at the water/sand interface where I revealed the beach glass.
Finally I sealed the surface with several coats of sealant.
Step 5: Before and after




This view is looking down on the project from the top floor of the house. The first image shows the original deck just after an old fiberglass spa had been removed from the 25 year old cedar deck. As you can see, I expanded the deck area and replaced the cedar with Ipe decking. The outdoor kitchen counter (three pieces) was my first attempt at concrete work and left me with a natural color.
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