Today learn how to create false wood-look panels from the comfort of your home which you can implement in any home environment.
This is an easy to use project and can be used in many applications.
Supplies:
- You will need 4x8 sheets of 1/2″ pink foam insulation
- Sharpening markers, a tape measure, a straight edge
- An adjustable wood burning tool or soldering gun.
- A wire brush with a wooden handle
- A cleaver cutting knife
- A hand torch
- Paint supplies (roller and brush) and some different colored paints (flat latex paint for the walls)
- Instant glue
Steps to create false wood-look panels:
I would recommend some good gloves, eye protection and a good respirator type mask. Foam be sure to be outdoors or in a very well ventilated area.
#1: Let's get started!




- Cut the panels to size (it all depends on where you are going to use them).
- I used the straight edge (I used a T drywall) to draw my cut lines and then used a razor blade to cut the panels.
- Using the straight edge and a marker, I begin to draw the pattern of the board. I kept it random with some wider boards.
- The idea is that these are recycled, old, half-dried barn boards.
- Now I start drawing the wood pattern on each board, starting with the knot and then drawing a random pattern moving away from the knot and keeping the lines about 1/2 inch apart.
- Easy once you get the hang of it.
#2: Sculpting the pattern




- Using my soldering gun on a medium setting with the tip pointed, I was able to “slide” the tool across the pattern…
- I have to keep moving or the tool will melt the foam more and more.
- I would suggest using a piece of scrap metal first to understand how fast or slow you will need to go.
- I melt the tip of the tool halfway.
- This seems a little strange at this point, I know.
#3: Time for some fine details!





Make sure you get a wooden wire brush, I started with a plastic one and when I heated the wire it melted and the wire came out!
- I turned the torch to medium and heated the wire brush. You only have to heat it for approximately 30 seconds.
- While the wire is hot, start at the end of each "board", tilt the brush at about a 45 angle and drag slowly so the wires melt.
- Be sure to "wiggle" the brush slowly from time to time.
- Just keep repeating this step until you get the desired effect.
- This will also help "harden" the foam.
- The brush will also open up some of the carved lines and give it a much more natural aged look.
- Be sure to "sit" a little more on the ends of the boards, as that's where it would age the most.
#4: Time to finish the painting!





- I used a very dark brown flat latex interior paint for the base, almost black and a thick roller to apply. Make sure you put paint in all the grooves so it does NOT look pink... This is a pain as I found out!
- Every time I think it was good, another angle would show a little pink!
- Once you are sure that the primer has completely covered all the pink and that the panels are DRY, it is time for finishes.
- It will be a dry brush technique. You won't need much paint for this step.
- With a lighter toned color, dip the end of the brush into the paint...using a piece of foam or cardboard, apply the pain until it is almost completely off the brush.
- Very slightly in the opposite direction of the "grain" brush, do small sections at a time.
- This should go quickly, but be careful not to add too much paint. I also add some other colors, like a little green on some boards.
#5: Finish it!





After dry brushing all the panels, I place them in sunlight to "check" if there are any light spots or if another color is needed.
That's it... You can use any color as a dry brush top coat.
Next time we will make a wall and have different staggered colored boards, red and gray.
#6: Install!





I used the mechanical grip to glue the panels to the door...
Just a few taps were enough and there is no "waiting" time once you press the panels.
The most important thing is that the PTO will not enter the foam. It's very light and easy to work with! Have fun!!
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