In this tutorial we show you how to install recessed lighting in a false ceiling easily and quickly, without the need for professional tools.
They are easy to install into existing wiring and the best part, recessed lighting never goes out of style. So let's see how it's done in the following images.

Also called can lights, the recessed light housing is available in two basic styles.
Newly built lights are bulkier and have a frame that can be fixed from above.
New construction recessed lights are easy to use when ample access is available from above, but are not practical when attic access is not an option.
The “Remodel” case (shown here) installs from below by connecting the device before pushing it in from below.
Remodeling the case is usually the easiest option when replacing old accessories.
#1:

Once the basic shell is installed, an internal cover called a “baffle” is used to cover the bare metal can for a polished appearance.
A simple baffe is most commonly used, but reflective baffles can be used to maximize light throw or directional “eyeball” covers (shown here) can be used effectively on sloped ceilings or to illuminate a specific area.
The molding is used to cover the edge of the housing and the surrounding hole and can help prevent any uneven or irregular edges made during installation.
#2:

Before you begin, locate your breaker panel and turn off power to the location.
Remove the old light fixture and then remove the junction box in the ceiling above it.
It is often necessary to use a saw to cut the joint of the joist to which it is attached.
Be careful not to damage the cables, which can sometimes have a short span, making it more difficult to install a new case.
#3:

Your new lighting should include a paper template that you can use to trace a circle on the ceiling.
If you are replacing an old fixture, the size of the existing hole may dictate the size you select for the new recessed lights.
The most common sizes are 4, 5 or 6 inches in fin diameter.
#4:

Use a drywall saw or a drill bit to cut holes to cut along the traced circle.
Although a trim will be used to cover this edge, do so slowly to provide the smoothest cut possible, especially with older ceilings where the plaster or drywall may be brittle and prone to crumbling under stress.
#5:

Open the junction box attached to the light and secure the wires protruding from the ceiling to the box, leaving enough room to easily move them as needed.
Strip the plastic insulation from the end of the wires and use nuts to join the wires together (usually color-coded black, white, and a bare ground wire).
#6:

Before mounting the fixture, temporarily turn the power back on and use a voltage tester to confirm that electricity is reaching the bulb socket.
Once confirmed, turn off the switch until the project is complete.
#7:

Carefully insert the casing into the prepared hole and locate the clips along the edge of the casing.
Using a screwdriver, push the clips outward until you feel a click to firmly attach the case to the ceiling.
Once all clips have deployed, gently pull on the housing to ensure it is securely attached to the ceiling.
#8:

In most cases, the baffle and edge will be secured to the housing with metal springs.
Pull the springs to their longest reach, secure them to the housing in the compatible holes on the can and slide the baffle and trim up until the edge is flush against the ceiling.
#9:

Your recessed lighting is almost ready to go.
Select a bulb with an approved base size and wattage for your fixture. Halogen and LED bulbs are the most popular.
Consider wattage and heat when selecting a suitable bulb for your use and make sure the bulb is dimmable if using a dimmer switch.
#10:

Without a doubt this lighting is perfect for some home environments.


Watch the following video on how to make a false ceiling with recessed lighting:
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