How to Make a Multipurpose Shelf Room Divider, you can balance your storage needs in your space by partitioning your space with a smart storage solution like the room divider.
Using compression posts as the structure, the rustic shelves were added to the partition space and provide a platform to display your home items.
I used one side of this compression shelving as a place for coats and boots, and the other as a workstation that can be converted into a snack bar.
Since you can place the shelves at any height, I added a little more space to place plants and display antiques and other collectibles; There's even a folding shelf for my laptop and another for my dog's food bowl.
This shelving system can be customized to fill any space, and you can apply a variety of treatments to the shelves to match your style.
Step 1: Design

I based my design on the idea that the room divider could function as an overhead workstation.
With this in mind, I began drawing what the room divider could be, trying different shelving combinations until I was happy with the results.
I took dimensions from the drawing to determine the wood I would need for the shelf, then printed the parts list to go to the lumber store.
I've included my CAD drawing here in case you want to use it as a reference for your own design.
Step 2: Select the wood

I chose pine boards for my shelving as it is cheap and accessible at almost any lumber store.
I got some 1″x10″ boards in 10′ lengths and some 1″x10″ boards in 6′ lengths.
I wasn't picky about the condition of the boards, refinishing them to have a rustic, worn look, but all boards should be straight with minimal or no lean.
Step 3: Post Openings



After printing, I drilled all the openings and then cleaned the edges with coarse grit sandpaper.
Step 4: Appearance of the wood



Pine wood doesn't really have an interesting look and wouldn't match the space it was going to be installed in, so I chose to distress (antique) the wood using a few techniques.
Distressed wood will create cracks in the wood that stain darker and give the wood a unique look.
I started by dropping a handful of screws into a jean apron and used it to tap the wood, creating indentations.

Then I used a combination of threaded rod, hammer and piece of steel to further damage the wood. I also paid attention to the edges and ends to ensure the distressing covered the entire piece.
Step 5: Depth of stains
To give these pine boards a more interesting look, I stained them in layers to increase depth and character.
I applied a tea and vinegar solution to give it an aged look, then I applied a finish to darken the boards, finally I applied a lime coating finish which lightens the appearance and softens the stains underneath.
Step 6: Tea dyeing, part 1

Start by brewing any black tea, let it cool to room temperature, then apply the tea to the boards.
Step 7: Tea dyeing part 2

Next, soak the steel wool in vinegar for a few hours.
This makes the aciron acetate Iron acetate produces hydrogen gas, so be sure not to seal the container while the steel is getting wet.
Generously apply the iron acetate solution to the wood, you should notice a color change almost immediately.
The color will darken over the next few minutes.
Step 8: Finishing for the wood



After the tea stain had dried completely, I applied a water-based finish.
A rag was soaked in water and then a small amount of walnut stain was added to the rag, then the diluted stain was applied to the boards and rubbed.
The pain dimples should be very visible now.
Step 9: Lime pickling



The final coat of stain is a lime stripping solution, which will give the wood a ghostly, aged look and soften the appearance of the previous coats of stain.
The lime was applied with a foam brush and immediately cleaned with a cloth.
Let it dry completely. The lime sheen will fade a little and the boards will be fine, leaving the boards aged and worn.
Step 10: Begin Assembly



Place the compression posts in the ground at the approximate location of your design.
Begin adding the shelves carefully in the order they should be stacked; However, instead of placing the shelves at the proper height, place them stacked on one end of the posts; This will make it easier to stand up.
Place a collar between each shelf of each post and hand tighten.
Step 11: More assembly




Continue placing shelves and collars, hand tighten as we will be moving the stacked shelves after the unit is upright.
The exception is the last set of collars, these will need to be tightened completely so that the shelves do not fall when they are vertical.
Before placing vertically, place caps on each end of the compression posts.
Step 12: Stand Upright


You will need a helper to get up from the shelf.
Once upright, extend the top posts to touch the ceiling.
Step 13: Leveling

With your helper still holding the posts, use a level to make sure the posts are level.
Step 14: Tighten the bottom nut

To hold the posts in place, the bottom nut must be tightened.
This nut will raise the bottom of the post and compress the top against the roof, creating a solid connection and holding the post in place.
Repeat this for all posts.
Step 15: Organize the shelves and start storing things!




Once the posts are secure, the shelves can be positioned at the desired height.
Pull one shelf out of the stack and pull it up to the desired height, then squeeze the collar under the raised shelf to hold it in place. repeat the process for all shelves.

These rustic-looking shelves matched the style of the apartment perfectly, and partitioning a space with such high ceilings was not a problem.
Depending on how you treat your shelves and where you place your partition, there is no end to the variety or usefulness of your shelf space divider. Greetings!
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