Building an Incredible and Unique Ladies' Powder Room! 2026

Building an Incredible and Unique Ladies Dressing Table, how to make round drawers that rotate instead of normal drawers. I designed the overall look and shape of the dresser in Fusion 360 Software and the drawer and tower sections in AutoCad. I used a CNC to cut all parts precisely. I had a total of about 100 pieces that needed to be glued together to build the drawers and towers.

Read on and learn how to build this unique vanity...

Step 1: Designing

At first, I just wanted to make a dresser that had plenty of table space and drawer space with a large mirror.

After reflecting on this design, I decided I wanted something I had never seen before. I came up with this second design that had a curved top and circular towers for the drawers.

I described how the drawers worked in this third image. I was originally going to have the drawers rotated toward the center, but the table didn't turn out as big as I wanted, so the drawers rotate outwards and there is no room in the mirror.

So it turned out more like a desk than a dressing table.

https://goo.gl/v18hHM

I included the AutoCad and Fusion 360 files for reference.

Step 2: Measurement and CNC

Our CNC ShopBot only measures 4'x8′, so I cut each one down to 4'x5′. I designed the tower/drawer sections, table outline and holes for the legs and brass rod in AutoCad to ensure everything was in the right place and brought it in with the VCarve Program to make the tool paths for the CNC.

There were two ring sections, one was split 90 degrees from the other, so each drawer has 4 layers with the look on the sides and 3 layers with the seam on the front and back. This staggered the seam, preventing a large seam from running from top to bottom, making the drawer sturdier.

The drawers are 7 layers of 3/4″ ply and 1 bottom layer of 1/2″ ply, a total of 5 3/4″. The cage of each drawer, or the back of the tower where the drawer is located, has 8 layers of 3/4″ ply, a total of 6″. This makes a total of 1/4″, or 1/8″ at the top and bottom, for the drawer to sit.

Step 3: Sanding each piece

The CNC left a pretty rough, pointy edge on each piece, so I had to sand each one individually to smooth them out and prepare them for gluing.

Step 4: The drawers and legs

I fixedthe boxes individually before building the towers as a whole. I did this by sliding each layer onto the rod and gluing each layer with the bottom as a shape template. I used an 18 gauge nailer to quickly attach each layer.

I turned my legs in an attempt to follow the round canvas.

The legs are inserted into the bottom of the tower and a wedge is driven into the top of the legs to make a solid connection.

Step 5: Completing the towers

Once the drawers were made I began to assemble the towers.

I started by making a pin out of a nail by making a hole in the end and trimming the nail about 3/4″. I made a slot for it to sit on top of the bottom layer of the tower.

Once the towers were made, I had to sand quite a bit to get them smooth.

Due to some calculation errors, the solid circles dividing the drawer cavities were too large, so I had to sand them to match the size of the drawers. First we used a belt sander because they were admittedly pretty bad, and then we used a random orbit sander to make everything possible and get everything closer.

The brass rods were a little long, so I cut them and sanded them flush with the towers.

Step 6: Fixing the towers and the rear leg

I wanted the towers, back of the leg and table to be removable for easy storage or movement. I made it by having two layers for the table. I inserted nuts into the bottom layer of the table so I could use 1/4″ screws and screw through the towers, leaving a level surface for the drawer to slide on.

The block in the first picture was my solution to notching everything so that the T-nut sits flush after drilling the 1/4″ hole. I drilled a 3/4″ hole, the size of the large T-nut ring, in a piece of plywood and used it as a guide to keep it from moving.

The turning of the hind leg was a disaster. It barely fit on the lathe and would vibrate pretty badly when I turned it to center, leaving a surface like a golf ball.

Once I got the general shape I had to sand through this texture with 80 grit sandpaper, which felt wrong. I eventually got down to 240, which was gentle enough for this job.

I made a plate for this back leg to attach it to the table. I used the same technique of the short legs to attach the plate, the leg and, as before, used nuts to screw it to the table.

I decided to orient the plate this way because trying to square it against the round back of the table wouldn't work well.

I was unable to capture the natural beauty of the fully constructed birch desk before painting it.

Step 7: Final product

Once the handle knobs were glued and all the finish was dry, I applied layers of polycrylic over the table surface and each handle knob. I didn't do it on the entire desk because trying to seal the end grain on all that plywood would have gotten really expensive. Thank you for your visit!

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